Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
A friend makes rustic jewelry. She just got a small roller setup for non ferris metals. I was wanting to do some stuff with her and I have a bunch of classic bronze that I have made. Probably 10-12% tin. How thin does it need to be to have a chance to work well. It's a inexpensive model that says it will do up to 5 gauge. I'm not sure how hard bronze is for something like that. Also the bronze pieces I have made are 3/8". I can use my oven to heat them. What is a good temperature to try to hammer it down? Last time I tried that I was way to hot and it crumbled.
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Wanting to work bronze with jewelry rollers.
- Thread starter Storm W
- Start date
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
A friend makes rustic jewelry. She just got a small roller setup for non ferris metals. I was wanting to do some stuff with her and I have a bunch of classic bronze that I have made. Probably 10-12% tin. How thin does it need to be to have a chance to work well. It's a inexpensive model that says it will do up to 5 gauge. I'm not sure how hard bronze is for something like that. Also the bronze pieces I have made are 3/8". I can use my oven to heat them. What is a good temperature to try to hammer it down? Last time I tried that I was way to hot and it crumbled.
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Non ferrous metals are not worked hot.
Bronze would be annealed, and then rolled. After a few passes, the bronze will work-harden and need to be annealed again.
Bronze would be annealed, and then rolled. After a few passes, the bronze will work-harden and need to be annealed again.
I need to pound it pretty thin before I can work it. I was thinking that there is probably a temp that I can work at before there is problems. I would think I could at least work it at the annealing temp but I thought someone said that I can work it somewhat hot. 800 degrees is a number in my head but it is probably for something else. I made this bronze several years ago.
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Do what you want.
What difference does it make if you heat it to anneal it, or heat it to try and work it?
What difference does it make if you heat it to anneal it, or heat it to try and work it?
Richard338
Gold Member
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I made several habaki out of bronze and my experience matches Bill's description. You can move it a certain amount, then it work hardens. Heat it red, drop it in cold water and it's ready to move some more. It's very quick to anneal it each time.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Some bronze alloys don't roll well.
As said, work the metal cold. Experts can judge when it is cooled enough to work hot ( usually around 700-800°F), but if it is just a little too hot, it will crack/smush apart. Bronze work hardens fast, so you can only do a little thinning or rolling before needing to re-anneal it. Anneal by heating to dull red and quenching in water to cool. Work it and when you feel it being more resistant to hammering/rolling, anneal again.
As said, work the metal cold. Experts can judge when it is cooled enough to work hot ( usually around 700-800°F), but if it is just a little too hot, it will crack/smush apart. Bronze work hardens fast, so you can only do a little thinning or rolling before needing to re-anneal it. Anneal by heating to dull red and quenching in water to cool. Work it and when you feel it being more resistant to hammering/rolling, anneal again.