Warranty service: Your mileage may vary

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Apr 3, 2005
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I bought a Poliwog. It had a problem with the lock area. There is a small cutout which makes room for part of the lock to move back, but it was not centered causing part of the lock to bump into the handle at the deepest point, which was annoying but not unsafe, so I fixed it. It was also missing a washer, and the side of the blade got scratched on the handle, so I made a washer to fit the knife and all was well. Despite these annoying issues, I liked the knife so much I decided to not only make it a regular user, but also purchase a SECOND one to keep in my smaller "fancy" collection of knives I keep in mint condition.

When the second knife arrived, not only did the blade also touch the handle when opening, but it appeared to have the same defect in the handle cutout.

The washer issue was a mystery. It would be weird to get 2 knives in a row with the same part missing, so I was wondering if maybe it was not meant to have 2 washers. I called a couple of dealers, one of them the fine folks at New Graham, and asked them to look at theirs. They were not able to tell for sure if theirs actually had a second washer or not. They said at the very least the blade was closer to one handle slab than the other and it might not have the second washer. However, since my first knife was improved immensely by adding a second, though much thinner, washer, I was fairly certain it was supposed to have two.

Since the second knife was going to be in the "fancy collection," I didn't want it to be a home repair job (which normally doesn't bother me, but this was to be one of my few "shelf queens" or whatever you call it). I didn't want to mess with it at all or even open the blade too many times to cause any blade scratches, so I mailed it to Spyderco to be fixed, along with a letter explaining in detail exactly what was wrong. E-mail and phone number included of course.

The knife came back without a SINGLE thing having been done to it. A note written on the return form said the cutout in the handle is supposed to line up with the spring, not the ball, or something like that. That was not only incorrect but also not an answer to the problem. The spring goes all the way into the handle and has no need for a small cutout accross the slabs. The cutout is clearly for a piston piece which, at the front end, is wider than the inside of the handle by a hair. Plus, the cutout doesn't actually line up with the spring or the piston or the ball or ANYTHING on the knife. But my complaint was it not lining up with the piston piece, not the ball or spring. The note also gave me a number to call if I had questions.

I considered not bothering to call, because it wouldn't be the first time I tried getting a manufacturer to fix something clearly not correct but they didn't consider it "wrong" because the knife still works. I am used to that by now, which is one of the reasons why I usually just fix things myself.

But, being so fixed on that issue, I didn't realize right away that the second washer was still missing! I thought for sure they would fix that, or else state that the knife is only supposed to have one, but they must have forgotten about that issue.

Since I wasted money shipping the knife for absolutely no reason, I figured a call was due. I am not "cheap" as long as I am actually getting SOMETHING for my money (or else I wouldn't be buying $100 spyderco knives in quantities of 2). It could be a stick of gum for $10, but it shouldn't be nothing at all. On the handle cutout issue, they said the knife seemed to be working and they could not get it to do what happened on my first knife. Nonetheless, I though the knife was clearly not made well so I wanted to make sure they understood what was wrong with it, functional knife or not, since their first answer sounded like they didn't understand what I meant.

That didn't really go anywhere, so I said if the knife I sent to them was working (which seemed to be his final view of it) and my first knife was working, I'll move on the the second issue of the washers.

This next part kind of surprised me. He asked me if I thought it really needed the second washer. Until that point, he wanted to focus strictly on how he saw the knife as functioning properly (my opinion on what looked like an obvious blunder in manufacturing was just my opinion). Now he was asking for my input on what parts were necessary to build this knife? Normally I love giving input on anything at all, but the irony of this was definitely what I thought of first. But I still explained how the knife functioned without the washer (mainly the blade hitting the handle and the impossibility of finding a correct adjustment for the pivot, both of which can be caused on any knife by leaving off a needed washer). I also repeated the fact that my first knife was fixed by adding a washer, so I would like to have the missing washer sent to me. It's interesting to note that even by this point I still had not received an official word on whether the Poliwog is supposed to leave the factory with one washer or two. You would think that would be relevent.

Next I was informed that taking the knife apart to do this would void the warranty. I'm not sure if that was meant as a reason why they didn't want to send the washer or if it was just informative. Either way, irony struck again because the warranty I was warned against voiding had already failed to replace a missing part once, and the coverage of which apparently did not apply to my opinion of the finer points of things anyway. So I told him that 1. I don't care about the warranty any more, and 2. they already failed to replace the missing part when I sent it in, so I would rather just do it myself. (the concept of paying $9 to ship a knife to have a 3 cent washer replaced seemed ridiculous to me to begin with, so I definitely didn't want to pay that again)

But what would the day be without also being asked how they are supposed to know the washer wasn't lost when I took the knife apart? A standard argument for that type of policy I am aware, but I didn't take apart the second knife, I sent it to them. I explained this in the letter, and previously on this phone call, how I didn't want to mess around with it so I DIDN'T open the second knife and instead sent it to them. I explained this again since he asked. But the ironic part, and this makes number 3 for the conversation, is that someone at Spyderco first forgot to replace the washer and didn't even mention the issue when they sent the knife back, then this person didn't seem to even be sure if his own product should have two washers or not, and MY competence was being questioned!

But he did say he would send me the washer, so I will be glad when that arrives.

I also got a defective sheath for my SPOT I ordered from the Spyderco website. It's bent and doesn't fit well. I sent it back today, maybe that will be a better experience.
 
This is why I didn't send my first dodo back, the one that would close by pushing down on the blade. It didn't do it all the time and I was afraid it would "run just fine" if I sent it back.

I still want to send it back though, I cannot get the clip screws off (yes I used 2 torq bits) and would like some non-stripped screws. I don't even mind paying a reasonable fee for this service. I would hate to call then send it in only to get it back the same way.
 
I've had good luck very good luck with spiderco's warranty and repair. I don't want to get into details because a mighty people ideas. But in most cases they have gone beyond what I expected. I have a c 25 that the small torque screws stripped, this was my fault was trying to do it by hand with a bit and it turned out to be harder than I thought. I was thinking about asking them if they could replace the torque screws that I didn't want to bother them not sure if they would or not is getting such small screws out after the stripped would be a pain.
 
On reflection I believe that many times companies with great warranties can greatly taken advantage of leading to a somewhat jaundiced view.
 
gitarmac said:
I still want to send it back though, I cannot get the clip screws off (yes I used 2 torq bits) and would like some non-stripped screws. I don't even mind paying a reasonable fee for this service. I would hate to call then send it in only to get it back the same way.

I don't know why that is so tight. I think mine had some loctite stuff on the screw. You could try soaking the back end in acetone (miraculous stuff) or solvent alcohol, but I don't know if the G10 will hold up to that.

Were you switching the clip to the other side or removing it entirely? FYI, the female half of the clip screw is too long for the two halves to screw together without the clip.
 
Just use a hairdryer to heat up the area around the screw this may loosen the locktight
 
Hi Guys
try applying a hot soldering iron to the screws before trying to undo them. The thread locking compound will break down around 120 C so leave the iron on the screw until it gets good and hotthen attempt to unscrew it immediately. FWIW I had an issue with the Spydie store, the Warranty and Repair people were top notch in every way and went out of their way to make things right.
Phil
 
In the course of 2 or 3 years, I've sent in probably 6-8 knives to Spyderco for various types of service, and I've always been extremely satisfied. Seems to me that from my experience (and many other references on this forum), they're among the best around - dissatisfaction would be pretty rare indeed...
 
It seems to me that if you got two defective knives out of the box they should have been returned to New Graham, not Spyderco....
 
The reason that taking the knife apart voids the warrantee is that 90% of the time, the ELU loses a part right away. Usually a washer, a screw or a spring. Naturally they usually say the part was missing when they got it.

(kitchen knives are always broken cutting a piece of cheese or butter).

The communication time spent with the customer to figure out how to solve the problem is usually far more cost (in labor) than the cost of the knife to begin with.

You may be the exception, but ?

The gentelman that you spoke to on the telephone was Eric Glesser. He designed and engineered the Poliwog.

The people that put these knives together are professional knifemakers. They do it all day every day. They are very good at what they do.

I guess the question now is "what will please you?"

sal
 
A druid said:
Just use a hairdryer to heat up the area around the screw this may loosen the locktight

I thought of that after I stripped the screws and stabbed myself in the hands with the torx bits. I don't use that clip in my lab coat so I was just going to remove it. It seems like a knife designed with a reversable clip would not have loctited screws on, unless maybe it's not suppossed to be removed after all.

I guess it's a moot point if the clip is needed for a fit. I don't know if it's messed up enough to warrent sending it in.
 
Mr. Glesser, Is the knife supposed to have 2 washers or not? That's the crux of the biscuit. If its a single washer design, then its a design flaw not covered by warranty. If it supposed to have two washers, then its an assembly problem and thus covered.
 
Sal Glesser said:
The reason that taking the knife apart voids the warrantee is that 90% of the time, the ELU loses a part right away.

I know why that is the policy. A good policy as the "first answer," but after the warranty people forget to address that problem entirely when I did it their way? Would have been a good situation to not bring that up. But he is sending the washer anyway, so that was just annoying, not an open issue.

I could ask how you know how many people disassemble their knives without problems, and maybe never have any contact with Spyderco at all, to arrive at the 90% guess, but maybe it doesn't matter.

The gentelman that you spoke to on the telephone was Eric Glesser. He designed and engineered the Poliwog.
I wish he was more interested in how his knife was being made. The explanation as to what parts were supposed to line up didn't make any sense to me. Then he never looked up the official specs (as far as I can tell) on how many washers it should have?

The people that put these knives together are professional knifemakers. They do it all day every day. They are very good at what they do.
I am sure. But two knives in a row? That bothered me, I hope you would expect that. Someone not bothered immensely by such a thing wouldn't have been expecting very much from your knives, would they?

I guess the question now is "what will please you?"
Eric already said he was sending me the washer. I am not going to ask to have anything done with my knife again. I will adjust it to my liking myself and move on with life.

But I would be "pleased" if you would go get a Poliwog and look at it. Try moving the ball and piston all the way back, not just as far as the blade pushes it but until it stops. Remember that any variations in the blade grind will change exactly how far back the piston must go when closing. If my words don't detail it enough, go ahead and remove one of the handle slabs and look at the arrangement of the channel the springs go into, the piston piece, and the smaller "u" cutout in the handle slab. Ask yourself if it really looks right and would serve the function as described by Eric or the warranty people. I swear, it does not line up with anything. I don't even care if you come up with an official answer to give me on this, I would just like to know that someone there took a close enough look to show that it matters to them.

While you are at it, I WOULD like to know how many washers are in the knife you look at. If it has only one, can you adjust the pivot screw to work smoothly without any left/right blade play? If it has two, I hope one is much thinner than the other, as another of the same washer that came with mine would be too thick. The one I made for my first knife had to be sanded down so thin to fit in the knife I almost thought I was nuts, but when I finally got it just right I was able to easily adjust the pivot so the blade moved smoothly, had no wobble at all when opened, and didn't scrape on the handle when opening.
 
Carl64 said:
But I would be "pleased" if you would go get a Poliwog and look at it. Try moving the ball and piston all the way back, not just as far as the blade pushes it but until it stops. Remember that any variations in the blade grind will change exactly how far back the piston must go when closing. If my words don't detail it enough, go ahead and remove one of the handle slabs and look at the arrangement of the channel the springs go into, the piston piece, and the smaller "u" cutout in the handle slab. Ask yourself if it really looks right and would serve the function as described by Eric or the warranty people. I swear, it does not line up with anything. I don't even care if you come up with an official answer to give me on this, I would just like to know that someone there took a close enough look to show that it matters to them.

Carl,
I think that you are bordering on being pretty rude. With the amount of research and development that goes into every knife that Spyderco produces, it's a bit condescending to ask the owner of the company to go back and look at his own knife. Two questions for you. Did Eric say that there was supposed to be two washers? Or did he just send you one since you thought it was a solution. Also, if you figured that your second knife was faulty, why didn't you just return it to the seller?
Matt
 
Let me answer the first two things in reverse order if I may, it will make more sense that way...

Did Eric say that there was supposed to be two washers? Or did he just send you one since you thought it was a solution.
He never specified. He asked me if it needed a second washer. I explained how the pivot adjustment and blade were not working well. He said he would send it, so I am glad he is doing that. Technically, nobody at Spyderco ever told me if the knife is supposed to have one or two, including when I sent it in asking to have that issue fixed. Zero response on the washer issue from the warranty folks, and Eric, though he asked for my opinion on it, didn't seem to know for sure either.

In addition to that information lacking, I was told by both Eric and the note on the warranty return form (the person sending it asked Eric) that the part of the handle I was concerned about was supposed to line up with [A], not , even though I actually complained about it not lining up with [C]. And on top of that, it didn't actually line up with [A] anyway. (letters used in place of actual words for simplicity)

So I was starting to wonder if anyone was really looking at the stuff I was talking about.

Jazzman said:
I think that you are bordering on being pretty rude. With the amount of research and development that goes into every knife that Spyderco produces, it's a bit condescending to ask the owner of the company to go back and look at his own knife.

If you only read my previous post on its own, I can see how you might think that. But events prior to that sure made it look like nobody had actually looked at it at all. So when Sal asks what would satisfy me, after all of this aggrivation, the only thing I can think of that would make me feel better is if he himself would look directly at the stuff I was concerned about.

Also, if you figured that your second knife was faulty, why didn't you just return it to the seller?
Matt

I should have, but too late now. I asked about this knife in one of the forums here, and of course everyone says send it in. Normally I don't send things back for service. I think this might be the fourth time in around 15 years (first one to Spyderco), and I have hundreds of knives. But this time for some reason I did.
 
I didn't think he was being rude either.

I wonder if the ball lock is just prone to a lot of variation. In both of my dodo's the appearance is a little different, in one there is more blade visible through the hole than the other one for instance. I had to pick off some excess g-10 in one that caught the spring in the hole making the piston stick. The feel is different between them as well. On one the bearing sticks a little bit and is a little harder to release. On the one the bearing easily releases the operation of the blade is stiffer. I've found my dodo's very useful at work but when he mentioned something about the appearance of his pw it made me think of my dodo.

I'm just wondering if the design lends itself to small inconsistancies between knives.
 
First, thank you AF and gitarmac.

Second, I agree the design is bound to have variations. A slight shange in the height or angle of the ramp on the back of the blade will affect how far forward the ball moves and how much it sticks. Variations in the peak at the bottom of the tang (which holds the blade in the closed position) will change how far back the lock parts are pushed when the blade is pulled open, how strongly the springs hold the blade closed, and how smoothly it closes (notice the Dodo just closes up, while a Poliwog or Griptilian need to be squeezed a little).

I have 2 Dodos, and on both the "ramp" area is less of a ramp (not as much incline) than the Poliwog or a Benchmade with the similar Axis lock. Both Dodos had sticking problems, while the Poliwogs did not (only just barely noticeable). But the Benchmade griptilian looks almost a little too steep. It's always a compromise making a lock, because you need a minimal wedge shape on a lot of parts, but not too much to make the lock unreliable. It looks like Spyderco was aiming for maximum reliability.

But one thing I noticed on my Dodos is the ball locks tend to just barely make it to the locked position (it looks like the ball on the Poliwog goes in just a little bit further). Both of mine were still safe, but I heard at least one person had problems with the Dodo unlocking with enough force. Given how close mine were, I can see how just a tiny hair of a variation in one part could make it so the ball was not quite where it should be. With a lower "ramp" angle, to minimize failure due to the ball being edged out, there is also more variation in how far in the ball sits. Variations in the height of the ramp grinding cause the locked position of the ball to vary in inverse proportion to the ramp angle.

I would prefer a very slight increase in the ramp angle on the Dodo to get rid of some of the sticking and help reduce the variation in the ball's locked position (to ensure it never ends up "locking" short of the edge of the ramp).

Of course, linerlocks and lockbacks have similar concerns too. Linerlocks kind of have a visual advantage because 1mm variations in exactly where the liner hits the blade don't really look wrong. Deciding exactly where the liner should rest is subjective. Most of the way over for minimum accidental unlocking? Just barely engaged for longer lock life after a lot of wearing down? Right in the middle? A little before the middle? But on a lockback, anything other than exactly right looks wrong.
 
Well, I am neither an engineer nor a machinist, but in looking at the one and only Poliwog I own I would suspect that the cutouts you seem to feel are incorrectly placed (but which the inventor of the lock and designer of the knife have assured you is correct) exist because the diameter of the spring and plunger is greater that the distance between the two scales, so you have a relief cut on the inside of the handle intesecting the chamfer on the outside.

I'm not Sal either, but here's what happened when I took the liberty of trying to do what you requested he do with a Poliwog...

poliwog-a.jpg


poliwog-b.jpg

Spring and plunger seem to retract fully into the handle, ball seems to be about as far back as it can possibly get, and, at the very least, is considerably further back than it would ever need to go in order to open or close the blade.

Have no clue on what the actual washer count is, as I have not taken mine apart and have no intention of doing so. Can say, from observation under strong light, that the gap between the blade and the handles seems equal on both sides so would guess that the number of washers on each side is the same.

One final observation, no one human being should have so much bad luck Carl, perhaps it's time to consider a karma transplant.
 
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