Washer polishing

L

LonnyRS

Joined
Jan 21, 2013
Messages
475
If any of you fine folks sand down or polish their CRK bronze phosphor washers, what grit do you use? Or WHAT do you use? And what is your method? I have a Zaan that is pretty tight, and wonder if polishing the washers could help free it up or not. I've opened and closed my 25 to break it it to almost perfect, but that took LOTS of time. I wanna go the easier route here, as I won't be carrying the Zaan with me everywhere I go..Thanks!
 
I own several CRK's and the first thing I do is take them apart and polish the washers. I only use a leather strop, I use the white coarse side first then switch to the green fine side. I really only polish the side of the washer the blade rides on, then I reassemble using a small amount of CRK grease and then smooth as silk. Hope this helps
 
spydiesteve said:
I own several CRK's and the first thing I do is take them apart and polish the washers. I only use a leather strop, I use the white coarse side first then switch to the green fine side. I really only polish the side of the washer the blade rides on, then I reassemble using a small amount of CRK grease and then smooth as silk. Hope this helps
Click to expand...

You mind sharing what kind of strop you use, like what brand? I have been wanting to get one, but need some good advice. Thanks..
 
Well I polished with 2000 grit, and stropped on the backside of an old leather belt (improvise!), and it worked wonders! Thanks for the advice, and the video link. Much appreciated!!
 
In my experience there is no need to sand the washers, all you gotta do is just back off the pivot screw a little. A turn as small as 1/8 will make a huge difference in tightness.... That to me is one of the sweet things about the zaan and the new seb 25, the pivot is very easily adjustable............ To me, sanding just runs into problems down the road, especially when sold to the unknowing. But maybe thats just me...!!!
 
I personally just let the washers polish up on their own with use. Never really saw a need to polish them personally. If I was going to do it, I'd just use a strop and no sand paper. But frankly you should just let it happen naturally.
 
Four things I've learned about Sebenzas:

1. Chris knows what he's doing.
2. New Sebenzas require a break-in period.
3. Sebenzas are built to such tight tolerances that it's best not to mess with them. (See number 1.)
4. Messing with a Sebenza's tolerances voids the warranty.
 
^I agree with Nyefmaker I just back the screw off a tiny bit and Wallah, smooth as glass:thumbup: Is the warranty definatly voided if you strop the washers?
 
The warranty disclaimer seems pretty clear to me. But if you have any questions, I'd suggest you take them directly to Chris. You can reach him at 208-375-0367, Monday thru Thursday, 7:00 am – 5.30 pm, Mountain Time.
 
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When I clean my washers, I simply put a paper towel on a flat surface and put my finger over it covering it completely and just slide it back and forth on the paper towel keeping it flat. I always use the side with the bumps on it. Once you see that area is rubbed flat ( the paper towel ), just move it to another area and redo. You will not believe the junk that comes off the washers. All it is is corrosion on the bronze, just like on a copper penny. Reassemble and lube. Thats all it takes.......The washers are custom fit to each sebenza. You can see this in the new CRK video that has been floating around here. So taking the slightest tolerance off of them, will change the function of the knife. Also, take note CRK WILL NOT sent out new bronze washers. So you must send it in should an issue arise. This will cost you $$ to and from.

Take it from someone that has had 73 CRK with a soon to be 74th. I echo "bld522". The warranty is Very Clear and from someone that has spoken to Chris Reeve personally several times, He KNOWS What He Is Doing. He has forgotten more about knives than all of us put together will ever know. TRUST ME on this one...!!! He took the time to explain the mechanics of the framelock to me in detail and it blew my mind.
 
Yep. I've had an opportunity to speak to Chris on a couple of occasions and there's not a doubt in my mind that from a technical perspective, he leaves most other knifemakers in the dust. The tolerances he achieves are the envy of the industry. I would consider it the height of arrogance on my part to think that I could do something to one of his knives that would make it better than it was the day it left his factory.

Funny thing is, whenever anyone wants to compare a new folder to the industry-standard, guess which knife they invariably choose to compare it to? You guessed it . . . THE SEBENZA!!! That's why I, for one, will never be without a Sebenza in my collection.
 
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bld522 said:
Four things I've learned about Sebenzas:

1. Chris knows what he's doing.
2. New Sebenzas require a break-in period.
3. Sebenzas are built to such tight tolerances that it's best not to mess with them. (See number 1.)
4. Messing with a Sebenza's tolerances voids the warranty.
Click to expand...

Bingo!
 
Thanks for all the info guys. The main reason I asked was I didn't want to spend the time and energy to break in the Zaan. I did so on the 25, but I have opened and closed it a thousand times, taking it everywhere I go, even did it driving on long trips out of town. If I did that with the other, it would inevitably get scratched a marred just by carrying it everywhere. So, I kinda wanted to "cheat" per se. And by golly it worked!
A side note - I have a callous on the tip of my right thumb from the 25 I've worked it so much!
 
But I do over analyse everything and it seems obvious that the Zaan and the 25 are totally different from the other Sebenzas. The video is of a 21 where the thickness of washers/blade as compared to the thickness of the pivot bushing determines how freely the blade moves. With the Zaan and 25, how tight the pivot screw is determines how freely the blade moves. Polishing the washers in the 21 changes the clearances and how the blade moves. In the 25, polishing washers changes nothing when compared to adjusting the screw. In either case, polishing could have a small effect on the friction of the blade/washer sliding surface but that effect is minor. Choice of lube likely makes more difference there than polishing the washer.

I'm sure "breaking in" either type works but is totally unnecessary in the 25 and Zaan. The pivot screw can be adjusted without risk of voiding warranty or hurting the knife. Polishing washers or pivot bushing in the other Sebenzas changes clearances and function and, no doubt, has the potential of voiding the warranty. With the CRK warranty and customer service as good as it is, I can't see a reason to do it.

A work around on the 21 etc is to treat it like a 25 and simply loosen the pivot. This bypasses it's primary advantage but will have the same effect. I've never heard of the pivot screw loosening further on its own but it certainly could even to the point of losing the screw so purple Locktite might be in order. Additionally the other front screw might have to be loosened as well if it holds pressure on the blade/washer stack.
 
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It's OK. I did a light polishing on the 25, but to be honest, just as has been stated, loosening the pivot just a hair makes a BIG difference? I had loosened the pivot before, but it still was tight. After polishing, and playing with the pivot, I found the sweetspot. I am so happy with this knife now. When I first got it, I couldn't understand why everyone was always saying their Sebenza's were smooth as butter, because mine definitely was not. It just needed to be broken in and adjusted. Mine is now so smooth it feels like glass AND butter!! HAHA...Thank guys

25_zps9c8880ed.jpg
 
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