Washer

Joined
Mar 7, 2013
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390
So I took apart my 3.5 to clean and change some of the bling. I was surprised to see the washers were just some Teflon or plastic paper washer. When I was putting the pivot screw back in I clipped off a little of the washer.

Why not bronze or copper or something stronger. This knife is a tank in all ways but the washer. My CRK's and all of my other high ends have even a lot of lesser knives.

Where can I get washers to replace the factory washers.
 
Teflon is lubricious and non corrosive. The pivot will work fine for years without any additional lubricant. It's a formula that has seemed to work well since the introduction.
 
Okay before everyone freaks out that I dare ask a question I mean no disrespect I have 3 Xmas one in my pocket right now. I would like to change mine to something else bronze or something does anyone know where I can get them.
 
I don't think anyone was freaking out......and as a friend of mine likes to say......it's your knife......you can do what you want to it.......but the teflon actually works really well and was designed to be durable and fit the tolerances of the XM perfectly.......
But I am glad you found a different solution that makes you happy.......in the end......that's all you need.....
You have to be happy with your knife......
 
Yup...everyone was pretty cool. I wouldn't mess with mine either but if that's what you want go for it.
 
Sorry felt like it might get a little snapy, some times people get a little miffed when you question there favorite knife design or maker. Which was not my intention. Just wondering why not a metal one was there a reason or a disadvantage to having one of metal. I don't feel the Teflon in my xm is as smooth as the phosphorus bronze in my CRK Sebenza and I damaged the Teflon when putting it back together. So it is not so durable which if you don't take your knife apart often no big deal but I use my folders for dressing game and fish so I take them apart a good deal.
 
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No worries........
People set their XMs up differently.......some just leave the teflon washers as is.......some add a little bit of frog lube or nano oil or gun oil.....I happen to use a little bit of Tuf-Glide.......
You do have to be careful with the teflon washers when you are disassembling and assembling your XM but once they are properly installed there is nothing to worry about.....
Then comes the adjusting of the pivot to find the "sweet spot".....and there is one.....
But I can tell you that my XMs are all far smoother than my Sebenza.......
Before you change out the teflon......play around with the setup on your XM a little bit.....I think you will be pleasantly surprised......plus it's a lot of fun......
 
Whatever you use to replace them with should be the same thickness. The thickness of the blade plus two washers should equal the width of the frame spacers. Otherwise the tolerances of the knife will be thrown off I would think.
 
Whatever you use to replace them with should be the same thickness. The thickness of the blade plus two washers should equal the width of the frame spacers. Otherwise the tolerances of the knife will be thrown off I would think.

I measured thickness and size of the Teflon spacer so they are the same size. I will try it and see how it goes. I am sure Hinderer tried it but for a 1.50 for 3 pairs I wont lose any sleep. Best part is I can always go back.
 
There are a lot of modifications to knives out in the world...to include custom bearing work on an XM or two.

But, as stated about going back to Teflon...it's a likely outcome.
 
There are a lot of modifications to knives out in the world...to include custom bearing work on an XM or two.

But, as stated about going back to Teflon...it's a likely outcome.

We shall see. I will give you a case in point. I had a folder from a very well known mastersmith and production knife maker. I used his folder found a few flaws during use in the field and due to my feedback he made some changes to the knife. And was glad to have the feedback. You never know till try. There knife makers not gods they make mistakes or over look things too it happens. I'm not saying I know better than them if I did I would make knives not buy them. But I do have years of experience with all forms of knives from cheap to Ed Fowler fixed and folders. I use my knives hard at work and hunting fishing and camping. I don't spare them no matter what they cost there a tool and I use them. I love knives and messing with them is part of the fun for me. What if I come back and say wow that is slick and works great would you try it for $1.50. Chris reeves seems to like them I would put Mr. Reeves as a guy who knows a thing or two as well. Just saying don't count it out just because its the way it is and has been.
 
We shall see. What if I come back and say wow that is slick and works great would you try it for $1.50. Chris reeves seems to like them I would put Mr. Reeves as a guy who knows a thing or two as well. Just saying don't count it out just because its the way it is and has been.

Then I'd simply say good on ya.

Only replied since you quoted my text.

Hope you find a favorable outcome, enjoy your knife.
 
We shall see. I will give you a case in point. I had a folder from a very well known mastersmith and production knife maker. I used his folder found a few flaws during use in the field and due to my feedback he made some changes to the knife. And was glad to have the feedback. You never know till try. There knife makers not gods they make mistakes or over look things too it happens. I'm not saying I know better than them if I did I would make knives not buy them. But I do have years of experience with all forms of knives from cheap to Ed Fowler fixed and folders. I use my knives hard at work and hunting fishing and camping. I don't spare them no matter what they cost there a tool and I use them. I love knives and messing with them is part of the fun for me. What if I come back and say wow that is slick and works great would you try it for $1.50. Chris reeves seems to like them I would put Mr. Reeves as a guy who knows a thing or two as well. Just saying don't count it out just because its the way it is and has been.

I don't have a RHK yet! FWIW. I do have an extensive background, dealing with materials and their applications. Teflon or open race bearing as pivot bushing material is all fine, as long as it does not exposed to abrasive grits. Teflon or open race bearing, once contaminated with abrasive grits, often suffer irreversible damages. Bearing bronze is infinitely more superior in this arena - proven time and time again in machinery & tool designs - it was a purpose driven, engineered alloy to fill the niche as bearing material due to demand. However, it is infinitely easier to use an arch punch tool to punch out a set of teflon bushing from a sheet of teflon, already is dimensionally correct. Verse machine and part-off a dimensionally correct thin bushing, off a bronze bar stock, then lap to ensure it is dimensionally - parallel.

I do agree with your assessment on Mr. Reeves. Not too many knife makers out there did a 15 years stint as a Tool & Die maker. As well as continuously, coming out with machine/tool designs, to fill his knife making needs. I have a deep respect for the trade - since I am one myself in my past life - 39 years with full Nuclear Qualifications - just leave it at that. When someone raised the question - if you are such and such: why don't you make a knife yourself? Well, as for myself, my area of interest in in motorsports - that is where my main interest is focused and where I applied my trade skills with deep passion. But I do have a wide variety of luke warms, such as interest with knife - especially in the area of precision with emphasis on simplicity. When curiosity gets to me and want to judge for myself, I simply buy one to see once and for all. I have heard good things about CRk as well as RHK, we all know it is rather difficult to get one RHK along with a reasonable OTC price - so I wait - pending my judgement. CRK on the other hand, buying one is simplistic and all without drama. My verdict on CRK is all it claims and more after owning one.

A few extreme hard used tools I made, configured by hand, from three corners and blade shaped files - in the beginning and used throughout my 39 year journey in my trade career:

DSCN1820_zps35d65eb0.jpg


My modified, flame anodized Wannabe, looking pretty, hanging with the Hard Used Bunch :):

DSCN1964_zpsd5ce5590.jpg


Bottom line, basing on forum postings, that as an indicator - for most RHK owner, teflon bushings are a non issue.

:)
 
Thank you that was very interesting kinda answers my question too. I kinda thought it was good enough easy to do solution that works well. Thanks again for your post.
 
Put my phosphorus bronze washers in and so far just as smooth Teflon. I did have to file one down on the lock side so it would not interfere with the lock. But after a little work some frog lube all good smooth as butter. I wont say that its action is better its about the same. The bronze should get glassy over time with use and is far more durable. So:D:D:D
 
Put my phosphorus bronze washers in and so far just as smooth Teflon. I did have to file one down on the lock side so it would not interfere with the lock. But after a little work some frog lube all good smooth as butter. I wont say that its action is better its about the same. The bronze should get glassy over time with use and is far more durable. So:D:D:D

Very happy for you they worked out aside from the little tweaks! But I didn't have any doubt when you said, they were the same size as the original teflons. Plus you don't have to make them. :)

I noticed washers from CRK - one side smooth and the opposite had burs. Possibility is that blade side worn smooth or that, they were machine stampings. My point is that when measured total thickness against pivot bushing, difference was .0012", amount to .0006" side play. All three captivating screws, pivot, stop pin and stand off have precise thru holes, along with taper behind allen head screws to assure self center positioning and with the exception of the pivot bushing having the differential of .0002" less than the stop pin/standoff. When all are simply tighten, followed lubrication, provide the consistent precise fit - all without fuss.

Now with your long life bronze bushings, it is certainly a step forward! Credit goes to you willing to try something outside of the box. Right on! :thumbup:
 
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