Water Buffalo Horn.........UGH!!!!!!

L6steel

L6steel

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
5,855
Well, I finally bought some water buffalo horn slabs.Put em on a matched pair of dueling knives with some mosaic pins I made. Took em down to the right size and rolled em over and then went to the buffer. I swear I touched one piece of the horn for less than 2 seconds and it dissapeared. I was using 600 grit greaseless on a concentric muslin wheel, like I have on every other handle material I've used. I cannot believe how soft this horn is!! I thought it would be nice and hard like stag. It is so soft, small grooves appear in it where the carvings are on the tang. First, let me warn new folks, such as myself, to finish the knife as much as possible before fixing the water buffalo horn in place. Secondly, how do you pros work with water buffalo horn? Thanks and take care! Michael


"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!" If someone else has already coined this phrase, I appologize for using it. I just feel that its a good rule for the craft.
 
I rough cut the scales to size, at least 1/16" oversize.
I use double sided carpet tape to temporarily hold the scales in place while I drill the pin holes.
After drilling I flatten the horn on a piece of sandpaper placed on a flat surface and epoxy it in place.
The scales are roughed in to shape with a 50 grit belt then finished by hand with 180 and 400 grit sandpaper before buffing with green stainless steel compound on a buffing wheel.
Be careful not to overheat the horn or it will scorch during thre buffing stage.
Over buffing raises the grain of the horn and looks like it is scratched.



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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
I've been using ZAM polishing compound on Water Buffalo Horn for going on 6 years now and I use 6" sewn wheels. The only difference is I buff them on my older and less powerful buffer. Buffing soft horn such as Water Buffalo, Ram Horn, and even Pearls and/or Gemstone should be done at a slower sped or at the least with less powerful motor. The main reason that I say this is because FRICTION, If you've ever had a gemstone explode in your hand you know exactly what I am saying.If you only have one buffer then for Water Buffao, Ram Horn, Pearls and gemstones ues a non-sewn pad with ZAM or equevilent, or white, and finish it up with Pink No Scratch. If you run into problems give me an e-mail. I am working on another article on finishing specifically dealing with these type of problems.

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Curtis Wilson -
Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw
 
OUTSTANDING GEORGE AND CURTIS!! THANKS! MICHAEL

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!" <a href=http://hometown.aol.com/l6steel/myhomepage/index.html>click</a>
 
i recently finished some buffalo horn. i shaped, than sander to 2500 grt. then i used 10,000grt. liquid sander. it came out as a mirror polish and won't esily get hot, like on the buffer.
 
MAGNUM 44, what is liquid sander? Do you mean using wet dry belts? Also, where do you get 2500 grit belts? Thanks for the help!!! Take care! Michael
 
i don't use belts for handles, every one is hand sanded, you can buy liquid sander though supergrit, it's in a bottle and will last a long time. it comes with a pad to apply it to. just chuck the pad in the drill press and polish with it. get 5,000 and 10,000, label the pads, and use them after the sand paper. after that use paste wax and buff after each coat with just a light, loose buff, no rouge. don't buff to long and apply 3-5 coats. the finish is like a mirror, and will save you a lot of time over buffing with rouge.

[This message has been edited by magnum .44 (edited 06 October 1999).]
 
Make sure to wear a GOOD repirator when working with horn. The dust is rather poisonous.

I grind the scales very carefully to rough size and finish by hand with sand paper and water.

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www.wilkins-knives.com


 
oh crud, i didn't use one. thanks for the advice for next time. i wet sand from 320- 2500, i forget to say that, it keeps lost grit of the part being sanded.
 
I'll pick some of that up Magnum 44. Thanks! Excellent advice Kevin! I always wear a respirator when sanding on handle materials. I used to paint cars and saw the results of not wearing one. Take care! Michael
 
i'm pretty sure it's used to take out swirls in paint but it does one heck of a job on buffalo horn. it will work on any nonporus surface. so mother of pearl is applicable too.
 
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