I'll throw out another glowing recommendation for Mark at Leading edge. If I can offer a few pointers:
There will be a minimum spacing for nesting your parts on one sheet. For 1/8" material, I believe it was around .110". This may vary slightly for thinner stock, or depending on material, but .110" should be ok for what you're doing.
Waterjet is fairly accurate, but I'd still leave a little extra material around the edges for finishing, and make all of your holes undersized just a little bit so that you can drill and ream to final dimensions.
Some guys just do a little .050 or .060 spotting hole, though honestly, you could probably get by with just undersizing for a reamer, and not even worry about a drill. Others may have a different opinion, and to be safe, most guys probably undersize to drill and THEN ream.
If you're doing a liner/frame lock folder, you want to be absolutely sure about your lockbar cut out. Again, plan on extra material for finishing. Also, realize that waterjet has a kerf, so there's a minimum "slot" width that you'll need to work with. At this time, I don't remember what that is. Just make sure to accound for it when you send your drawing.
Mark typically asks for .dxf files for figuring your quote and putting it into the machine.
The cleaner and more dialed in your drawing is, the better it is for both of you.
There's an economy of scale. PPP (price per part) will be cheaper for 100 pieces than it will for 10 pieces.
There are different degrees of edge finish as well. A "rough" finish will cut faster and be cheaper. A "fine" finish will take longer and cost more. Depending on how much profile clean up you want to do, polishing of inside corners, etc... you might want to go finer rather than rougher.
Those are just a few pointers I can think of off the top of my head. I'd recommend waiting until after Blade Show if you want a quicker response on any questions. I'm sure he's been a little swamped as of late.
