Water"proofing" a cotton pack?

Woodtroll

Woodtroll

Joined
Oct 15, 2001
Messages
193
Hello, folks!

I was wondering if anyone here had any experience trying to make a cotton pack more water resistant, using something other than Scotchguard, etc.? I have a traditional cotton canvas/ leather pack that I am very partial to, and was thinking about trying something like Nikwax Wax Cotton Proof (hard to find), or one of the oilcloth reproofing creams like Duck Back or Filson. This pack is regular marine-type canvas, not waxed cotton or oilcloth to begin with. I don't care if the fabric darkens some, but I would like to make the pack a little more resitant to a light shower, etc. Before someone points it out, I know that nylon, Cordura, etc. is pretty water resistant, but I really like the look and feel of the canvas!

I would be glad to hear experiences, good or bad, from anyone else who has attempted this.

Thanks, y'all! Take care,
Regan
 
Just to make things easy .... why not get a waterproof COVER from a military surplus store. REALLY cheap and has elastic all around. Slip it on, take it off when needed.
 
use the wax from Filson and rub it in by hand. You gotta use lots and rub it in well. use a hair dryer after your done to 'melt' it into the fabric.

Outback jacket wax works too, as does linseed oil warmed up and mixed with Filson wax, but thats pretty messy and stinky to apply.

just finished my truckers tarp, its heavy canvas - i used Thompsons water seal. It has been stinking up the garage for weeks now, but its finally dry.
 
I have used Filson's oil finish wax in a tin with good results.

Specifically, my Frost River waxed cotton ball cap had been washed so much that the wax finish was basically stripped off. I applied Filson's wax with a rag, then heated it with a blow dryer to help get the cap saturated. At this stage, the wax is still sticky. You need to allow a full 24 hours for drying. But it works. I think you'd need an entire tin for something like a pack.
 
Rub with paraffin wax (canning section of super market) and melt in with warm clothes iron. Do not treat the back of the pack as heat willl draw out the "wax" and transfer it into your clothing.

When the pack gets dirty, lay on newspapers and iron on opposite side. Then rewax.
 
Just apply a liberal coating of petroleum jelly and it'll repel the heaviest of rains and you will always have a nice supply of jelly for burns or chapped lips.

Plus, you probably have the world's biggest PJCB if need to make a bonfire!

On a serious note, take pics when you light it! :D
 
uh...

Thompson's Water Seal...read the label...it works on canvas/nylon as well. I use the WalMart generic brand. Fill a bucket, soak it, wring it out over the bucket...hang to dry..outside and for a while...some days.

Remainder in bucket can be reused.
 
Two thoughts....
A can of canvas tent sealer from a shop like Cabela's
"Painting" the insides with nylon tent waterproofing liquid made for redoing tent floors. The pack will still 'feel' like a cotton pack to the touch but no water will penetrate it. Then just give the outside a spray with any water repellent treatment to keep it from absorbing too much moisture and getting heavy.

Stitchawl
 
I have used Thompsons sealer in the past on a diamond fly years ago. I think they changed the formulation. Havent't used the new stuff.
 
I have a question: do these treatments make the canvas stiff? After seeing the wool anorak another member here made, I was contemplating a canvas anorak..
 
Stuff the clean, dry pack in a 5-gallon bucket, seal it up with silica desicant inside, and keep it in a cool, dry place. That's about the only way you're going to really waterproof cotton.

I feel for you. I have a mini ALICE-style pack in cotton canvas that is the bee's knees for a day-trip/BOB etc, but it just doesn't hold up.

Cotton pretty much rots for outdoor use (pun intended).
 
Thanks, folks. I know that the pack will not be waterPROOF, which is why I put that in quotes- I'd just like it to shed some of the lighter showers, be able to set it briefly on wet ground, etc. without it turning into a sponge. For those of you that have used Thompson's- did the kerosene smell eventually dissipate?

I really appreciate y'all's input!
Regan
 
I "waterproofed" a linen haversack this weekend with beeswax. A pound cost me $14 and was easily twice the amount that I needed. Melt it in a pan you'll never use again or in one of those cheap pie tins (148 degrees is what the web says is the melting point it, but the flash point is in the 600s so I set my oven at 200) and slather it on with a paint brush. Then heat the sack up again with a hair dryer while scraping off the excess with the dull edge of a spoon or butter knife and moving it over to any spots you missed. You'll have to do the dryer/scrapping routine a couple of times. It's historically correct and nice looking when your done -- an added bonus is your pack will light up like torch if you get it too close to your campfire ;)
 
Waterproof liners--even just garbage and shopping bags--would work wonderfully. The bag's fabric would get wet, but the inner items would be dry as a bone if liners were used properly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top