Brine is often used to eliminate air bubbles during the quench, and is a more even, yet more aggressive quench than water. It is stated in "The Craft of the Japanese Sword" that clay on the blade has the same effect, evening and slightly speeding the quench, thus rendering salt unnecessary. I've read this elsewhere several times.
Randall Graham wrote a great page on water quenching, it's over at Don Fogg's site under "techniques." It describes the method he's used for everything from W1 to 5160, even 440C. He says, and my limited experience with water bears this out, that it is important to evenly finish the blade before the quench- I go to 220 grit everywhere before claying. Normalizing at least once, maybe 3x is good to do first, and an even heat is important when heating for the quench.
I've quenched for 3 seconds in luke-hot water, about 110F, then gone immediately to preheated oil. The water gets you past the nose of the TT curve, the oil cools the rest of the way. You get the shock of water with less of the full stress. I read this method from Jesus Hernandez. Some other guys do this too. Everyone seems to do it a little different.
I'd say go to Don Fogg's forum, look in the HT area. Many sword smiths over there, many threads about hamons and water quenching. Check the sword forum over at IforgeIron, too.
Pray first. I do, to heathen sword gods.
