Water stone scratches

Use lighter pressure so you don't build up so much mud. Flush the surface of the stone if it gets too thick. Tape the flats of the blade if need be.
 
Jason B. said:
What stone?
What blade?
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I have had this issue with Shapton Pro's. Just bought a green brick of joy, so this may be guilty as well. Does not seem to be an issue with Shapton Glass. The blade is a hand rubbed gedraitis paring knife. Oh well, it's got love marks on it. hehe. Not doubting it could be my technique and never worry about it on my carbon blades as it will patina over. No doubt a hand rubbed finish seems to be more prone to scratches. Any insights and happy to see you Jason.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Use an india stone!
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Bill:

I have an india stone and really enjoy it. Variety is life and the ability to progress / learn /experience, etc are important to me. I would like to hear what others do to minimize scratches,etc with water stones. Have you had similar experiences with water stones? Thanks for the comment.
 
Been using waterstones since 1980, and never had scratches (that can be seen) unless I inadvertantly tipped the blade flat against the stone, which is way too easy to do when trying get only a degree or two above bevel. I honestly can't imagine slurry doing it.
I never thought of this before, but maybe apply a pc of thick tape (like several layers of masking tape or better yet - .020" VHB or thicker for greater angle) to the shoulder of the primary bevel, then rub the whole section flat against the stone. This would make a glass-flat bevel without touching the rest of the blade, and the stone won't abrade the tape surface as fast as it will the edge (as long as you apply pressure to the edge only).
 
The only thing I use waterstones for is refinishing blades.
I have no use for them for sharpening.
 
Well, you should never move to a new stone in hopes it will solve any sharpening issues.

That said, Shapton stones don't really produce a slurry, it's more like swarf water. So, if you are scratching the side of the blade using Shapton's then you are hitting the side of the blade against the stone.
 
If I keep the stone rinsed, most will not cause trouble anything above a 1k.

If the angle difference from primary to cutting bevel is less than 5 degrees or so, is where real trouble begins, getting worse as the transition gets tighter. The smaller difference the smaller margin of error and the harder the stone will need be to avoid problems.

For regular scratching at the shoulder transition, just run the progression each stone from the shoulder to the edge, after a stone or two the shoulder will clean right up.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
The only thing I use waterstones for is refinishing blades.
I have no use for them for sharpening.
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Hi Bill,
I am new to knifemaking but have been using waterstones for a long time, because the viscosity of water is lower than oil, which makes it easier for abrasives to cut, therefore I favor waterstones. Why do you not like waterstones for final edge? I am not trying to start an argument, as I have a lot to learn. I checked out your website - really cool stuff - I love the Leverletto story and am still reading it.
 
Thank you very much!
I just have no need to use waterstones for sharpening. My knives get plenty sharp on diamonds, India, ruby stones.
I see no need for sharpening on them.
 
John Blazy said:
Hi Bill,
I am new to knifemaking but have been using waterstones for a long time, because the viscosity of water is lower than oil, which makes it easier for abrasives to cut, therefore I favor waterstones. Why do you not like waterstones for final edge? I am not trying to start an argument, as I have a lot to learn. I checked out your website - really cool stuff - I love the Leverletto story and am still reading it.
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Aaaaaaaactually oil provides superior lubricity, and therefore better cutting action. Water, however, is certainly more convenient. I prefer water, myself, but oil is superior as a lubricant where the effect on abrasion qualities is concerned. :)
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Thank you very much!
I just have no need to use waterstones for sharpening. My knives get plenty sharp on diamonds, India, ruby stones.
I see no need for sharpening on them.
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I definitely understand now, which reminds me of the single greatest habit I forced myself into - carrying a small diamond hone in my pocket at all times (in my shop). So much faster to restore the tip of my utility knife blades that switching them out, even though my four knives are expensive quick change Stanleys. Which brings up another tip for anyone that uses utility knives - get the new carbide blades. Worth the $ as they last a lot longer, and I cut ALOT of Carbon Fiber, so I know.

FortyTwoBlades said:
Aaaaaaaactually oil provides superior lubricity, and therefore better cutting action. Water, however, is certainly more convenient. I prefer water, myself, but oil is superior as a lubricant where the effect on abrasion qualities is concerned. :)
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Geez, you guys are just spoon feeding me humble pie. But in my defense, I have used all types of stones and waterstones are just simply more efficient in my overall work flow, because I store them in my utility sink, where they are always full of water, and I don't have to worry about wiping oil off my fingers which ruin my laminates. 80% of most of my sharpening is done with my pocket diamond hone anyway, which saves a trip to the sink.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Thank you very much!
I just have no need to use waterstones for sharpening. My knives get plenty sharp on diamonds, India, ruby stones.
I see no need for sharpening on them.
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So, you like diamond stones now?
 
Diamond stones have their uses. Hard steels, heavy cutting.
I generally just use my 2 X 72 belt grinder for the initial edge, then India, then Ruby.
 
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