Waterstone Recommendation for Becker Knives?

[CalmAsHinduCows]

I've been very interested in free hand sharpening and after using my brother-in-law's waterstone setup, I've decided to take the plunge. He has a Becker BK-2 and uses the 1000 and 6000 grit King waterstones and can easily get his blade shaving sharp.

I'm basically just going to be using my BK-16 for general purpose field work and bushcraft purposes, so I highly doubt I'll need it shaving sharp. But, it would be nice to know that I have the stones possible to make it shaving sharp.

I thought I was just going to purchase the same stones as he did. So, I have been doing a little bit of research today and keep coming across posts saying that King stones are overrated and you can get a lot better quality for the same amount of money. Is this true?

Would another brand be better? What grits are recommended for a good bushcraft knife or axe sharpening?

 

[Bighaze51]

Those are the exact same stones I use. I originally bought them to hone my straight razors but quickly learned my knives could benefit too. They are reasonably priced and work well for what I need.

 

[Jason B.]

King stones work but they are about as basic and slow of a waterstone as you can get.

For the same price you can get Shapton Pro Waterstones Argueable some of the best stones on the market.

I would recommend a 1k and 5k Shaptn Pro set with a diamond lapping plate.

If your knife ain't shaving sharp then it ain't sharp. You don't need fine stones to make a sharp edge, just skill and knowledge, but you still want it to be sharp.

 

[Kentucky]

You don't need fine stones to make a sharp edge, just skill and knowledge, but you still want it to be sharp.

So true, lots of folks don't think you can get sharp with a 16K shapton but the edge right off a coarse dmt dia-sharp will cut paper and shave hair..The edge needs to be sharp before you progress to the next grit..If not you end up with a polished dull edge..
On the kings, they sure will work..Slow but the results are undeniable.

 

[CalmAsHinduCows]

So true, lots of folks don't think you can get sharp with a 16K shapton but the edge right off a coarse dmt dia-sharp will cut paper and shave hair..The edge needs to be sharp before you progress to the next grit..If not you end up with a polished dull edge..
On the kings, they sure will work..Slow but the results are undeniable.

Thank you! Yeah, I want a stone that's a little slower so I can practice my technique without damaging the blade too quickly.

I'm also looking for a good water stone flattener. I was suggested one of these, but have heard you can get an extra course plate for cheaper.

Or I'm over thinking the whole flattening thing? I keep hearing you can simply rub it on a flat surface with sandpaper. I'm sorta lost at this point...

 

[Jason B.]

Thank you! Yeah, I want a stone that's a little slower so I can practice my technique without damaging the blade too quickly.

I'm also looking for a good water stone flattener. I was suggested one of these, but have heard you can get an extra course plate for cheaper.

Or I'm over thinking the whole flattening thing? I keep hearing you can simply rub it on a flat surface with sandpaper. I'm sorta lost at this point...

This is a common line of thought but unfortunately the wrong one. The slower stone makes you more fatigued causing more errors in the grinding. This leads to inconsistent bevels and difficulties obtaining sharpness. Harder and faster cutting stones solve the issue of slower cutting softer stones. The faster cutting speed allows a higher degree of accuracy that you keep with the next stone allowing greater consistency of the sharpened edge. The harder stone also prevents gouging and tells you instantly when your angle is off.

The King stones will get the job done, I have some King stones myself, but I reach for my Shaptons when it's time to sharpen.

Just giving the advice I wish I would have known long ago.

 

[CalmAsHinduCows]

This is a common line of thought but unfortunately the wrong one. The slower stone makes you more fatigued causing more errors in the grinding. This leads to inconsistent bevels and difficulties obtaining sharpness. Harder and faster cutting stones solve the issue of slower cutting softer stones. The faster cutting speed allows a higher degree of accuracy that you keep with the next stone allowing greater consistency of the sharpened edge. The harder stone also prevents gouging and tells you instantly when your angle is off.

The King stones will get the job done, I have some King stones myself, but I reach for my Shaptons when it's time to sharpen.

Just giving the advice I wish I would have known long ago.

Thank you and noted! I more than likely will pick up the Shaptons along with the King stones to test the differences out.

Do you also use a flattening stone or plate as well?

 

[Jason B.]

I like the Atoma 140 or 400.

The DMT Coarse stone is not rated for lapping duties and you will damage the stone if used that way. DMT XXC or their larger lapping plates should be used to lap stones.

 

[CalmAsHinduCows]

I like the Atoma 140 or 400.

The DMT Coarse stone is not rated for lapping duties and you will damage the stone if used that way. DMT XXC or their larger lapping plates should be used to lap stones.

I was just coming to post that I found out that the DMT Extra Extra Coarse seems to be the plate for stone work. I was just reading about the Atoma as well. Seems like the Atoma might be a better deal. Thank you so much for your help.

 

[Jason B.]

I have a well used/worn out DMT XXC, it worked but my Atoma 140 is a welcomed upgrade to the DMT. It does not stick to the stone like the DMT and removes both steel and stone at a faster rate. It's a pricy stone but again, cry once any you won't cry again.