Waving a Buck/ Strider 889?

Gunfucius

Gunfucius

Joined
Jul 19, 2006
Messages
812
As most of you probably know, I have a Buck/ Strider 889 folder. I like the waved Endura, but I was thinking that I could save $70.00 and wave my 889. Here is a picture of an 889 so ya don't half to look it up:

http://www.buckknives.com/catalog/detail/472/233\

I'm thinking I could take some of the metal over the opening hole off and leave enough to catch the pocket when I draw it. What I don't know is if it will catch the pocket or just slide by instead. Also, if it does work, I want it to work 100% of the time. Don't try and talk me into buying a Waved Endura, because I will one of these days.:D I just want to try this as an upgrade to one of my favorite knives.
 
Let’s see if we can find the right forum …
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A closer look at the waved Endura shows the blade is cut down the entire length to the tip. That leaves the wave open to work more reliably, when it is withdrawn from the pocket.

That's a lot of grinding on an already tempered blade, which is the biggest reason for the expense. It has to be done without losing the temper - or the blade retempered correctly. Paul Bos is the acknowledged master of getting the most out of 420H, so the former route is the best. It's a good as it will get.

The origin of this mod came from Ernie Emerson, and I've never heard or seen why speed would be a high priority for his customers - soldiers. Loaded down with weapons systems, the bigger problem seems to be a need to open the knife one-handed when it's needed, with a reliable system that avoids current law and can be marketed to the public. (Mr. Emerson doesn't do this for free.)

That's the offsetting problem in EDC - once waved, the darn things open that way pretty much all the time, and that can get a real negative response when a sheeple is startled.
 
Use a ziptie, if you have the black one then installing a ziptie in the opening hole. I have done it to mine and it works really well and the black on black looks ok.
 
I put a zip tie on it yesterday, and it works well, but I'd still like to do a permanant wave. Do you think it would work if I just filed part of the metal over the opening hole off or do I have to take the whole top part of the blade off for it to work?
 
if you only cut a little near the hole you'll only get a response when you aggressively try to wave, but by taking some off the top of the blade you get a much more responsive action.

Also regarding heat treat, I'm pretty sure the only part of the blade that requires the heat treat is the part you cut with and the part you sharpen, I wouldn't think that ruining the temper on the blade spine would cause you too much grief.

Good luck
 
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