Wax buffing

J. Neilson

J. Neilson

Joined
Feb 6, 2001
Messages
3,621
I had a thought, not sure if it's of the good or bad sort yet though. Has anyone tried buffing wood handles with a clear wax, i.e. car wax, etc. On some woods, like zebra, I can put a clean wheel on and open a new bar of white compund and still get crap in the grain, even after I seal it with danish oil. I was thinking that maybe using a clear wax (like Ren. wax, but a little more affordable)on buffing wheel, not too fast, may alliviate some of this. Or, it may just burn the hell out of the wood. :rolleyes:
Has anyone tried this?
 
I have not used wax before buffing, but after buffing I use the Renaisance wax to protect. I use tung oil for the porous woods and continue applying coats (with drying and light sanding in between coats) until no more soaks in, then one more coat. A light buff will result in a great finish with the grain sealed. A heavy buff will break down into the finish to the wood. Buffing can be pretty aggressive.

Dan
www.bearpawknives.com
 
I use gun stock wax. It's what I'm used to. I also have used shoe polish (neutral). I have been applying with a cotton cloth; let dry and hand buff. I usually apply three coats or more.

Roger
 
I use a cloth or paper towell and WD-40 to get rid of the buffing compound. I use bees wax on a loose musilin buff for the handles. Good Luck
 
I guess Ed is using the wheel buffer. Gun stock wax should substitute very well for the bee's wax since I believe that is what it primarily is. Birchwood-Casey and should be found at most stores that sell rifles and such.

Dag! I wish I would have used WD-40 a couple hours ago. I busted butt getting buffing compound out of a wood handle. Next time. Thanks for the tip.

Roger
 
Bees wax was one I was considering. I've used different things by hand but, was curious about using waxes on a buffer. I'll have to try that Ed, thanks again.
 
I buff in carnuba wax before polishing light coloured woods, it seals the surface and limits dirt buildup in the grain. A stick of carnuba wax applied to the buffing wheel and buff the wax into the wood.
 
I have been using buffers and compounds on wood for more than 40 years.
When I got to the handle part of knifemaking it just came naturally. One of the buffs I use is loaded with 100% pure solid Carnuaba. I hate waiting for finishes to dry, then recoat, then dry, on and on and on.
After getting the handle done, I use Pink No Scratch, then the wax on a different buff. I put some pressure to load the wood, then back off to just touching the buff lightly to remove the 'runs'.
The Carnuaba melts with the friction, then sets up the instant you take it from the wheel.
The perfect finish for me.
Dave
 
That sounds great. I already use Mother's carnuba wax by hand. Now I'm looking forward to trying that and the bee's wax on wheels. Maybe I wasn't crazy after all. Thanks again.
 
If the wood is sealed well then there shouldn't be a problem with the buffing compound. I used to use a stuff called Fix-it that TKS sells. Then there is a few coats of Minwax Wood Hardener. If using just Watco or any other oil, I wouldn't buff it.

One little hint...if using boiled linseed oil, cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits. It will take a few coats but at least it will dry and not get sticky when the weather gets a little warm. It is just a long process.

C Wilkins
 
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