Waxed Thread: How Much Is Too Much?

Joined
Jul 11, 2003
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...or not enough?

Today is sheath day. I've been sewing all morning. You guys know I'm a leatherworking noob, so definitely a huge learning curve going on in the Higgins Shop today. As I am sitting here, stiching away and listening to some Nugent (Wang Dang Sweet Poontang), I'm wondering how much wax is really needed on my thread?

In following the preachings of the great and wondrous, Leathermaster Burrows, I'm using Barbour Red Hand 5 cord linen thread, and waxing it with beeswax and pine pitch mix. When I wax up the thread, I am wondering if I am putting on too much. After several strokes of pulling the thread across my block of wax, and pulling the thread through my fingers to drive the wax into the thread, my hands are sticky as hell. I go wash my hands before I begin sewing. Is this the norm?

Is it normal to have lots of sticky wax on your hands, or am I applying way too much wax? How can I tell when I have enough?

I welcome any and all comments, please.
 
the wax won't hurt anything, makes it easier to hang on to the little needles. Kinda weird at first though ain't it.

Oh yeah don't get excess wax the leatheryou want to put finish on.
 
Sweany said:
Oh yeah don't get excess wax the leatheryou want to put finish on.

That is the main gist of my concern. I have one sheath that needs to stay very clean and natural - no dye - only bag kote. :(

Its a bitch!:mad:
 
Sounds like you're using way too much wax. Give pre-waxed a try.
 
you need to stop just short of this much wax:D
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Try just getting enough of the wax/pine pitch on the thread so that you can see it lightly coated. Usually 2-3 passes through the block will be enough. To keep it off your fingers, cut a square of denim or canvas and run the thread through that. It's the friction heat that puts the mix into the thread and the cloth will heat up more than you fingers will. When sewing, you'll see a little build up of wax/pitch in some holes. I just use a toothpick to remove it and go on. I've noticed a build up on the overstitch wheel that needs to come off to get the good deep finish look after sewing.
Rick
 
I use Blue Mountain Industries #415 beeswaxed nyltex. I buy it from leather suppliers in the 4oz, coreless roll.

Nylon type thread is great as when you come to the finish and trim the threads off, leaving about 1/8" portruding, hit the tips of the thread with a butane lighter and as it starts to melt, just push it flush with your thumb or finger, to the seam and it bulges the end. It'll never pull out then.

Make sure you start out a couple of holes short of the starting point and sew up to the starting point then stitch back down, double stitching the beginning.

At the end, stitch back the equal amount of holes the then cut the string and melt.

You will probably need a pair of pliers when you do the double stitch at the beginning and end to get that needle through. Just make sure to pull straight as it's easy to bend the eyes up.

Let me know if I can be of any help.
 
What Rick said - with the pitch your hands WILL get stickier, but then so does the thread which helps lock the threads. Burnishing the thread after waxing and before sewing helps immensely. To get a good burnish hook one end of the thread over a nail or whatever and burnish away with a piece of canvas, brown paper, soft leather, etc.

As for the pre-waxed I've always found it WAAY over waxed - they just dunk the whole thing in a vat of wax it seems - YUUCHHH! Besides you don't get the pitch that way and the pitch not only locks the thread better than plain beeswax, but also adds anti-bacterial/anti-fungal properties which help protect the stitching (with nylon this is not needed but with linen it's a nice additive)

J H - when doing a piece of undyed plain finish, I put a couple of coats (or more) of the finish on BEFORE sewing........In fact I will usually add some of the finish on after cutting and before working - helps prevent screwing up the finish or finger marks, etc.
 
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