Wayne Goddard hammer modification

B

brymway

Joined
Jan 6, 2005
Messages
7
Hello again.

I was leafing thru one of Wayne's books: ('the joy of knife making' or something like that?) Anyway he told of how he learned from some blacksmiths how to modify a wood handle on the main blacksmith hammer. Something to the effect of cutting a notch about four inches long from the head down, or ripping the whole handle and then putting a piece of dark wood in the gap. It was supposed to decrease hand shock and now he uses it religiously. I just got a new hammer and I want to do it. I didn't buy that book but bought the "$50 Knife Shop" as per everyones recommendation. Any helps?

Thanks

Brock
 
I did it to my primary "forging to shape hammer" and it works well for me. Seems to give a little harder blow and less hand fatigue.

I'll post a pic in a day or so when I get caught up on sleep if you want.
 
Yes that would be very helpful. Also, what's the principle behind it?

sleep is good....get some

Thanks

Brock
 
The hammer modification is a slot 3-4 inches long and perpendicular to head. He said that a mill made it easier to do but a saw and a file will work too. If doing a new handle, he cut in from the head side of the handle and if on a hammer with an existing handle, he cut in from the butt end and then just glued a piece of wood into the slot, prefferably of a different color to give the hammer a neat look. If using a mill, I don't see why one would have to start at one end and not in the middle.

Enjot the book. It was the one that got me started.
 
The principle here is to create a place where the vibrations from the impact on the anvil are dissipated by a distortion of the shock wave.The slot makes the wave split,and when it re-converges,it dampens itself - at least in theory.I would try this only on a finishing hammer.A heavier shaping hammer may just end up broken.I might try this myself.
 
I recently bought a forging hammer from Ed Caffrey, and when I received it, I was pleased to see that he had split the handle like you are saying above. I've tried it now several times, and I do believe that there is less shock to my wrist and arm, and if anyone can tell shock, its me. Anyway, it's a great hammer, made for a lefty, for drawing out the distal taper, and the other side for drawing out the edge. Interestingly, the spine will not bow up when using this hammer.
 
I did it to my favorite hammer, and it still works fine thogh I can't say I really notice much difference. I tried to do it to another hammer before that, but in that one I tried to just cut the slot with a spiral saw bit in my drill... man it's hard to make that thing go in a straight line, it has the most deformed slot you ever saw, also works fine but not making a very noticable difference.
 
here's a pic of mine. I did it several years ago and I notice a slight improvement in bounce, and my hands don't seem to tire out as easily. May just be subjective. I cut the hole center section out and JB'd and pinned part of it back. Not a real neat job, but it works.
 

Attachments

  • tn_000_1638.JPG
    tn_000_1638.JPG
    35.4 KB · Views: 50
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top