Ways to incorporate exotics other than inlays?

[Omega Leather Works]

Just wondering what you guys have seen or done.

I'm working on a butterfly type sheath for a bushcraft knife. It'll have a ferro rod and loop, but I'd still like to dress it up per the customers request. I'm liking the idea of incorporating some snake or shark. I thought about a roll at the mouth, but snake is too fragile.

If nothing else, maybe I'll just do the rod loop in shark over 4oz veg tanned.

As a requirement, I'll need some space for geo basket stamping. Not hard since it won't be an overlay sheath, but thought it worth mentioning.

Oh, it'll have a dangler too. Maybe a shark covered strap to match the rod loop?

I'm all ears for advice.

 

[Øye]

I was going to say something about inlays, but then I saw that you asked for ideas other than inlays.

 

[Mecha]

You could incorporate a protective, ultra-tough strip of kangaroo scrotum to protect the delicate sharkskin at friction points.

 

[sheathmaker]

I use various exotics as full coverage, full front, or decorative overlays frequently.

Full front Beaver Tail, Full Shark skin, Brown Lizard overlays, Full front Alligator.

Paul

 

[P. McKinley]

Paul - When you do an overlay or full-front with any of those exotic skins can you/do you cut in a stitching grove, or are they too thin and you just go without the groove. Its hard to tell on some of your work.

Thanks,

-Peter

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Paul, do you ever do overlay pouch sheaths?

Peter, when I do overlays, I groove the leather panel under the skin. Gives it a similar result without cutting the skin.

 

[sheathmaker]

Peter, when sewing exotics, I run the groover very lightly, just enough to leave a guide line. Both my machines have very accurate stitch guide attachments and the machine stitch line completely hides the mark left by the groover. The foot of my heavy stitcher also makes a indention with each stitch which mimics a groove

Anthony, I dont remember doing an overlay on a pouch. The general layout of a pouch kind prohibits the use of a decorative overlay without it going over onto the back of the sheath, which I do not like. I have made many full over lay sheaths which I refer to as "full Shark", or "full Cape Buffalo" etc. On these everything outside the sheath is the exotic, and the interior is 7/8 oz veg tan core. Automatic fully lined

Mecha, your Kangaroo scrotum idea is brilliant, but is confined to smaller projects, due to lack of really large scrotums.

Paul

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Thanks, yeah I've thought about doing a full shark pouch, but that would be quite spendy for me and the customer.

About your shark overlays. How do you finish the edges? Shark is a bit like chrome tanned cow in that the edges are kinda rough. On my first, I tried to use the edge beveler. That's what I've done with snake. The no. 2 (if the veg tanned underneath has a crisp corner) will nicely slice off the snake and cow in a single pass, then I can easily burnish. With shark, the hide is too thick for the beveler to grab at the cow and just kind of tears at the shark. Maybe I could skive it back a tad?

 

[leatherman]

Shark is a difficult one for sure, I use sandpaper to do the rounding. Just slowly get to where you want it and do the final sanding with a little water. I've had good results from using a bit of gum trag on the final rub down as well, it helps to smooth down those fuzzy bits. The final wax does an even better job of getting it nice and smooth.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Thanks Dwayne, I don't remember if I tried gum trag, but I will. I need to see if shark can be used alone for a ferro rod loop, or if I should line it with 4oz.

Thanks again guys.

 

[sheathmaker]

Shark becomes a lot less difficult if it is thinned considerably. I just finished a full Shark overlay sheath with overlay Shark trim, reference photos below.

First photo shows all layers of the finished sheath. Starting at the mouth of the sheath. Top layer is black veg tan roll lining. Then Black Shark chevron overlay, then Brown Shark overlay full font panel, then 7/8 oz. core panel (darker line being the top grain of that panel), then the welt, then the zero skived tab of the belt loop (wedge), the welt, and then the 7/8oz back panel of the sheath, and finally the brown Shark full over lay of the back panel. The shark in this project was spit down to about 1/2 oz thickness. It edged with no difficulty what so ever and the edges finished routinely.

Second photo is the finished sheath ready to deliver.

Third photo is the top or front panel only showing the layers involved there.

Last photo shows the edge and relative thickness of the entire sheath. It is 7/16" just below the stud to the toe.

Paul

 

[Brian Avila]

I have thought about this for a while. I am glad you brought this up strig. The problems I have is finding the exotics. I don't know what is a good price or where to get them. You never know what you will get from the internet unless you have some good suggestions from people like you guys.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

There very well may be better places, but I was a bit desperate. I bought my last shark hide from SLC. Good price and the hide is very nice. I really like Kevin at Springfield Leather, he's very nice and easy to work with. Got his customers best interest in mind in my experience so I have no reservation about recommending them for anything. I've heard that calling is a good idea if you're looking for something specific in an exotic, but that's not to say that you won't get something good, just that it might not be listed.

Roje leather has a good reputation for quality exotics.

Paul, thank you. May I ask what you use to thin your skins/leather? I want a sewing machine before anything else, but a good splitter (not skiver) is second on the list. Is shark hard to thin? I can't see doing it on the sander, and I've read chrome tanned is hard to split.

Totally off topic, thank goodness it's my thread.

Which looks better if you were going for a dragon scale look?

 

[sheathmaker]

Paul, thank you. May I ask what you use to thin your skins/leather? I want a sewing machine before anything else, but a good splitter (not skiver) is second on the list. Is shark hard to thin? I can't see doing it on the sander, and I've read chrome tanned is hard to split.

Anthony, I now use a Cobra 14 motorized splitter. Prior to that I used a Landis 30 hand crank. Splitting any exotic is tricky and often a hit and miss proposition. Experience with you particular splitter helps

The sewing machine should be number one on your priority list.

Paul

 

[Omega Leather Works]

That fellow that sells used equipment (Bruce Johnson) sometimes has old splitters in the $400 range. Any thoughts on something like that? I know he reconditions a lot of his hand tools before sales and have read nothing but recommendations for his business. How's the Osborne #84(?) or Weaver Heritage? What about Campbell Randall (can't remember the name of their splitter)?

I'm asking a lot by asking all of this, I realize that. I'm not even in a position to buy the sewing machine yet (although I do hope that happens sooner than later) so I'm asking openly in case it helps someone else too. I know there are a few of you guys who have made these relatively large purchases. I have a habit of remembering a question that I asked long ago and re-visit the answers and advice when really needed.

My hopes with the sewing machine is that I can buy a Cobra from the shop here in California. I have heard nothing but excellent experiences with their products, but also with service. I doubt I'll be able to justify a Cobra splitter anytime soon, so most likely a hand crank model will have to suffice.

 

[sheathmaker]

The splitters you referenced are all "pull through" splitters. Personal opinion, very personal opinion……the best and highest use for them is a boat anchor. If you do get one it will likely cause you to remember and utter cuss words you thought you had forgotten. They may work for short pulls and be okay for lap skiving, but anything with a width of say 4 inches and 18 or more inches in length takes brute strength to pull it through and then you are very likely to get and uneven split or and angled spilt and ruin your leather.

The roller splitters like the Landis and the Cobra can be frustrating at times also, but they are head and shoulders above the pull through offerings. With any splitter you are at the mercy of the temper of the leather and the sharpness and polish of the blade.

Paul

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Ah pull through. That's right, I'd forgotten that some are bolt down, pull through. I guess that would also include the Tandy machines.

I knew there must be a difference between a $400 machine and something much more expensive, other than just a motor.

Okay, back to research, and hoping I win the lottery.