I have a CS War Hammer that is pretty cool. I used some Gorilla Glue to fill in any gaps when I secured the head (it expands, and if the handle breaks, the wood could be removed and the glue sanded off). This keeps the head from coming loose. I then coated the entire handle with a 1/4 inch layer of black PastiDip, including up the the sides of the head and over the top (improves the grip, and should the handle break it will keep the head from flying through the air). Has anyone else ever tried to find a way to keep a wooden handle from failing? What works and what doesn't? Just thought it would be interesting to see.
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Ways to strengthen a wood handle?
- Thread starter J.Davey
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- Jun 17, 2004
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I wouldn't bother. Replacement handles are cheap. I have a Cold Steel Warhammer and the handle just won't break. The thing is ultra tough. Just beat crap and forget about it. Of course if the real reason to fuss with it is for fun, knock yourself out. 
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Get the matching langets from cold steel.
I have the langets, but didn't bother with them. I can't see myself needing to defend against anything that would chop the handel, and drilling small screw holes just seems like it would weaken the handle. I tend to be a tinkerer, so that's what got me going with the handle reinforcement. The plastidip is an easy application, and greatly improves grip. Personally, I put PlastiDip in the same category as duct tape; it has a million uses.
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- Aug 15, 2002
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I had a different thought about this.
How about lashing the head to the handle with cord?
How about lashing the head to the handle with cord?
I just got there Warhammer as well. I like how the langets would look but it seems like it would be bad if the head came loose and needed to be pounded up because it would result in a gap between the head and langets. I was messing around with it before on a 19 inch handle throwing it and sticking with the spike it was fun and worked surprisingly well but the 30 inch allows for some good bashing. How does gorrilla glue work compared to household goop or krazy glue??
norca
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I asked this some time ago and was told by TWO HAWKS a wise and clever man about rawhide wraps "natures fiberglass" got hold of some dog chews to get the rawhide, soaked in water for a few days then cut in strips and wrap round the head and haft set aside to dry then coat in a water proof
This stuff is great takes a bit of practice to get the wrap right but worth it
I have also used it to wrap just under the head down the haft about 3" this has saved the handle many times when cutting firewood
This stuff is great takes a bit of practice to get the wrap right but worth it
I have also used it to wrap just under the head down the haft about 3" this has saved the handle many times when cutting firewood
Brody, Gorilla Glue is VERY tough. It doesn't crack like Krazy Glue. It seems to bond to anything. I got some on the smooth blade of my Benchmade TSEK once and I had to sand it off; it wouldn't just 'pop' off like other glues. It also expands as it dries, so you have to clamp whatever you're gluing (this obviously wasn't necessary with the warhammer), but it fills up any empty spaces. Once it has dried, excess can be sanded or filed off. The only downside is that it takes 24 hours to completely dry.
This gorrilla glue sounds good. Krazy Glue does crack alot and when I secure CS weapons with goop they tend to slide after a while. I coudn't find any Gorilla at the local hardware store so i ordered 4 ounces off e-bay ofr $9. So for the warhammer i'd just put some glue on the handle where the head will be then pound the head on and wait a day, or is their more to it? This glue seems like it could be a great solution to the somewhat loose fit of my CS weapons.
what I did was pounded the head on, then I pushed the glue into the little gaps around the bottom of the eye. You can push it into the gaps with a toothpick, and then run a bead around the entire eye (top and bottom), then just wipe away the excess (but maintain a pushing motion). Try not to get it on your hands. It's a b*tch to wash off. Check it every hour or so for the first few hours (if possible) and use a cheapo knife to cut away any excess bubbling out. This isn't a huge deal, but it might save you a little sanding or filing. Hope it works out for ya! I've slammed mine into trees, etc., and had no problems at all. I even drove the spike full force through a Minneapolis phone book (they're thick, (but I also sharpened up the point a bit).