WD-40 for cleaning gunk

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Hermit_Knight

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Mar 19, 2018
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Hello I have been gifted a tops hazen legion knife but it’s half covered in a thick film of black tree sap (and a broken tip ), I think it was used for bushcraft I’m not sure why as it’s not a bushcraft blade, I have got most of the gunk off with a cloth and am about to go to the hardware store to get something to clean it with anyway I’m new to knives and am wandering if wd40 would help remove the stubborn marks or anything else,I’m pretty sure it’s 1095 steel thanks guys.
 
Soap and water works well. I also like to use zippo lighter fluid for stuff like tap stuck to blades. It helps with other stuff too. Wd40 could possibly work too. Its got a little cleaner that evaporates and just leaves mineral oil which may help remove the sticky stuff.
 
Go to the art supply store and buy a small bottle of "Odorless Paint Thinner." It might be sold as "Mineral Spirits" or "White Spirits." Its real name is 'Stoddard Solvent.' This is the cleaner in WD-40 that will remove tree sap, chewing gum, tar, and just about anything else, leaving no residue what so ever. In WD-40, it's the ingredient that dissolve the mineral oil and allows it to penetrate rusted bolts to free them. In the 'tool chest' of cleaning solvents, Stoddard Solvent is one of the best all-around tools. Naphtha (lighter fluid) comes in a close second.


Stitchawl
 
Wd40 is still one of those non specialty jack of all trades. There's something better for each specific purpose but it's handy and always ready in a spray can with a built in straw.
 
Hermit_Knight said:
Hello I have been gifted a tops hazen legion knife but it’s half covered in a thick film of black tree sap (and a broken tip ), I think it was used for bushcraft I’m not sure why as it’s not a bushcraft blade, I have got most of the gunk off with a cloth and am about to go to the hardware store to get something to clean it with anyway I’m new to knives and am wandering if wd40 would help remove the stubborn marks or anything else,I’m pretty sure it’s 1095 steel thanks guys.
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I second trying zippo lighter fluid. (Naphta) it cleans knives great.
 
Thanks for all the responses I used wd40 and it worked pretty well I think I’ll use lighter fluid to do the rest, does lighter fluid cause corrosion on carbon steel or is it ok if you give it a good wiping/oiling after?
 
Not sure what the US equivalent is but an "Garryflex Block 120 Grit Abrasive" works great for cleaning rust and discolouration off knife blades.
 
There are three things I try to never be out of around the house: roofing tar, duct tape, and mineral spirits. With those three you do all sorts of emergency repairs and clean most anything. ;) Mineral spirits will remove all sorts of sticky gunk and (at least from my experience) won't harm most plastics or other materials.
 
On tree sap in particular, I've found Goo-Gone works real well. We have lots of junipers on our property, and I'm regularly cleaning the pitch from my hands and other articles and tools used for trimming/pruning them, and Goo-Gone handles it well. I keep going back to that stuff; it just works.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
On tree sap in particular, I've found Goo-Gone works real well. We have lots of junipers on our property, and I'm regularly cleaning the pitch from my hands and other articles and tools used for trimming/pruning them, and Goo-Gone handles it well. I keep going back to that stuff; it just works.
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I was going to say don't get Goo Gone on your hands because of a thread I glanced at here some time ago.
I just avoid most solvents and use gloves when I have to. Doesn't help while cleaning your hands does it hahaha.
Then I ran across the thread above that the bad stuff was Goof Off because it had more of what Goo Gone has.

I don't know . . . any body know where that thread is talking about Goo Gone being worse than the label indicates ? The label basically says to avoid prolonged repeated contact and "non toxic" all in one o_O.
 
Ace Rimmer said:
There are three things I try to never be out of around the house: roofing tar, duct tape, and mineral spirits. With those three you do all sorts of emergency repairs and clean most anything. ;) Mineral spirits will remove all sorts of sticky gunk and (at least from my experience) won't harm most plastics or other materials.
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No painter's tape? I keep several roll upstairs and downstairs.
 
Wowbagger said:
I was going to say don't get Goo Gone on your hands because of a thread I glanced at here some time ago.
I just avoid most solvents and use gloves when I have to. Doesn't help while cleaning your hands does it hahaha.
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I think the trick is not getting the sap on your hands--obviate the goo remover.

I HATE smells. Are any of these cleaners/ solvents odor-free?
 
annr said:
I think the trick is not getting the sap on your hands--obviate the goo remover.

I HATE smells. Are any of these cleaners/ solvents odor-free?
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EXACTLY !
I'm a glove freak around solvents and stuff that is going to get stuck on my hands; I even wash dishes with gloves . . . full on industrial chemical resistant like I use at work (the grocery store stuff doesn't last one fifth as long). I can use much hotter water wearing gloves for dishes.

As far as what solvent is odor-free : mineral oil.
 
Wowbagger said:
I was going to say don't get Goo Gone on your hands because of a thread I glanced at here some time ago.
I just avoid most solvents and use gloves when I have to. Doesn't help while cleaning your hands does it hahaha.
Then I ran across the thread above that the bad stuff was Goof Off because it had more of what Goo Gone has.

I don't know . . . any body know where that thread is talking about Goo Gone being worse than the label indicates ? The label basically says to avoid prolonged repeated contact and "non toxic" all in one o_O.
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When I've used it to clean sap from my fingers, it's just a matter of moistening a paper towel with a little bit and using that to wipe the sap off. Takes maybe ~ 30 seconds to a minute or so, and doesn't approach 'prolonged contact' at all. After that, wash the hands as usual and maybe throw on a little lotion. It can dry the skin a bit; but then, so will Windex, WD-40, isopropyl alchohol (it's worse), kerosene, lighter fluid and so many other things that so many casually use for similar purposes while thinking nothing of it.

And for taking sap off a knife blade, a Q-tip moistened with it is usually enough. If it needs a little more, just moisten the spot on the blade and let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe it away.

The biggest issue I have with Goo-Gone is just the smell of it, which can linger for a while on the skin. Hence, washing the hands afterward is also the best 'fix' for that.
 
Much to my surprise - Purell or one of the other anti bacterials work pretty darn well at removing tree pitch from your hands or knife blades. When I'm in the woods I simply "wash" my hands with dirt - that at least gets the stick off as it is now coated with earth :)

As for WD-40 as a cleaner - I learned from the lady at the laundromat - quite a few years back - that it is a great all purpose cleaner for stainless surfaces such as washing machines and other kitchen appliances AND yes - it works quite well on knife blades - depending on the nature of the crap on the blade. Lighter fluid and/or gasoline is pretty good all purpose knife blade cleaner too :confused:. It does work - just that there are some downsides :D.

Ray
 
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