Weathered Teak Southard - My 1st mod

[RayseM]

Here is my "teak" Southard. I had some weathered teak and thought it would make a great scale.
I have a new appreciation for this work. Very challenging to bore all the holes perfectly aligned. I bet there's a trick but this old woodworker hasn't figured it out. Lots of trial and quite a few errors before I finished one up. You can see that the screw hole at the end of the lanyard hole is a bit off - so perfection has still eluded me.

In this case I needed to transfer my lines and screw locations to the back of the teak as the face is textured. I didn't want to mess with that. I also chose to scoop only for the release bar and not to access the Spydie hole. I find that I only use the flipper and I like the look of the single scoop.

I like the look and feel very much. May choose to make another - ever striving for perfection but the prototype is encouraging. What do you guys think?

 

[GuestWho101]

Look fantastic ! Especially with this being your "first" real venture into the craft. How does the profile look with the blade closed? I noticed you mentioned the spydie hole being unattainable when closed.

 

[Ghost_ryder_934]

That looks fantastic! I got a Cuscadi scale (black micarta) a while back, and thought it looked much better than the brown scale that came on the Southard, however, I just didn't know how good it could look with the "right" scale. The teak scale that you made is incredible! I can only imagine how time consuming a scale(s) must be to make, especially the first time. If you ever decide to make any more, to sell, please give me a PM. I definitely would like a one.

 

[RayseM]

Thanks for your enthusiastic response and your kind words. You can see I added a folded photo. The closeup shows some of the needed 2nd attempt reworks.

Ghost unless I can come up with a way to get each one exact there is no chance of selling these - too labor intensive as each one is a "one-off". I could make a perfect metal pattern but that is not likely for this one knife. It is getting the centerlines of the screw holes perfect and then countersinking them to just the right depth that proved especially challenging.

 

[vanslem6]

Awesome.

 

[RayseM]

New photos added. Surprisingly difficult to photograph this to do it justice.

 

[quickster47]

For your first set those look FANTASTIC. Awesome job.

Carl

 

[xceptnl]

As I stated in the other thread... great job. Woodworker or not it is still challenging to get it perfect, but you look to have it under control.

 

[phillipsted]

Looks great RayseM! I just love the texture of the weathered Teak. Nicely done!

The holes are the toughest part of a mod like this. Here's a few tips/tricks I can pass along:

1. Drill your holes into your wood blanks first, before cutting out your scales. That way, you can adjust to any subtle errors that might creep in.

2. Tape the two scales together with blue painters tape, or temporarily glue them together with a couple of small spots of CA glue. This way,the two scales stay in registration the whole time you are drilling and cutting them.

3. Drill one hole (I usually start with the pivot). Put a temporary pin in the hole to keep the scales registered while you drill the second hole. Put another temporary pin in the second hole and go onto the third. This way, you keep the entire assembly registered pin-to-pin as you drill.

4. When you are finished drilling, you can use the pins to help you trace the outline of the existing scales onto the wood before rough-sawing them out.

TedP

 

[RayseM]

Looks great RayseM! I just love the texture of the weathered Teak. Nicely done!

The holes are the toughest part of a mod like this. Here's a few tips/tricks I can pass along:

1. Drill your holes into your wood blanks first, before cutting out your scales. That way, you can adjust to any subtle errors that might creep in.

2. Tape the two scales together with blue painters tape, or temporarily glue them together with a couple of small spots of CA glue. This way,the two scales stay in registration the whole time you are drilling and cutting them.

3. Drill one hole (I usually start with the pivot). Put a temporary pin in the hole to keep the scales registered while you drill the second hole. Put another temporary pin in the second hole and go onto the third. This way, you keep the entire assembly registered pin-to-pin as you drill.

4. When you are finished drilling, you can use the pins to help you trace the outline of the existing scales onto the wood before rough-sawing them out.

TedP

Thanks this is good advice - well of course :thumbup:. # 4 was to be my system for the next attempt.

# 3 would have been especially helpful but I don't know how I could have applied it. Except for the lanyard hole all of the holes required a countersink on the face. I did use the L hole to "pin" the others but it was only one hole. Next time I'll do the L hole than the 3 steps (I describe below) for the pivot hole - pin that one too. The other little holes will then be securely located.

In this case the most difficult was that I needed to work from the back - boring a very small hole to locate center and then to the face to bore the shallow countersink - which I needed to do before the larger through hole for the screws. Even with my very sharp brad points the textured wood grain wanted to grab the bit off center. Very firm hold down required and accurate centering with the drill press. Yup - surprisingly challenging, but worth the effort.

Thanks everyone for your encouragement and appreciation.

 

[Sonnydaze]

It is getting the centerlines of the screw holes perfect and then countersinking them to just the right depth that proved especially challenging.

That is an excellent mod. The teak is gorgeous, and your workmanship is perfect in my eyes. I have lots of exotic woods, but I've never gotten up the guts to attempt one. I have some decent tools, and maybe will make an attempt sometime. I have done a few grips for semi-auto handguns some yrs ago, but have been lazy lately.