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Wedge Rise

J

jpeeler

Joined
Jan 25, 2013
Messages
261
So I hung a True Temper Western pattern double bit on a nice handle about 2 months ago. Really put the time into this handle too- shaping, working on perfect fit. This axe was/is my main falling axe for big jobs. In use, performance is great, but I noticed the last time I took it out (12" pine tree), the wedge worked its way up about 1-1.5 mm. I reseated the wedge, and set back to work doing some bucking, and by the end of the day, had the same problem again. This hang went really well, good wedge proportions, but as usual I don't use any metal step wedges.

My question is, what causes wedge rise, and why on this particular hang? I think I'll keep it as it is now, but in the future I might pull the wedge and see what's going on.

John
 
Usually if I get a really tight fit this won't happen, except on things with really short eyes (hatchets, Hudson Bay patterns) which can be more finicky. Since I started making my own wedges, I've nearly eliminated the wedge rise issue on my full size axes. I just make sure to shape the wedge like the shape on the right, not the left.
wedgejpeg.jpg


I also rough them up. If they are super smooth they will be more likely to slip. You could always add a dab of glue, I don't, but you could.
 
So basically you're saying it's the sharp taper of the wedge that is pushing it out? Makes sense. I like the rough-up idea too. Thanks M3mphis.
 
Some people will file a horizontal groove on either side of the wedge, and a dab of BLO just prior to tapping it in . When the BLO soaks into wood from the kerf, it expands & locks in.
 
I've always worried that adding too much oil to the wedge is gonna lubricate it, maybe break the friction easier? I put a little on top, but not much.
 
I wonder how deep you cut your kerf when you hung this one. I always make sure that the kerf is at least two thirds of the way down in the head. Anything shorter than this and it may work loose. I also try to leave about .25+ inches proud above the head when I hang mine. This seems to lock the haft to the head.

I also use Swel-Lock in the kerf and coat both sides of the wedge before I drive it home. I've never had a wooded wedge or a head come loose when I do it this way.

DSC_0447.jpg


No need to use a metal wedge when hung this way.

DSC_0449.jpg


Tom
 
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Tom: That's exactly my procedure. I cut my kerfs with plenty of room, and borrowed the handle-proud-of-the-head idea from my Gransfors tools. I think I'm going to start using either a glue or swel-lock on my axes. Just as an extra precaution.

Thanks all for the comments.
 
Double Ott said:
I also use Swel-Lock in the kerf and coat both sides of the wedge before I drive it home.
Click to expand...

I second the Swel-Lock idea. It can be purchased generically as DPG (dipropylene glycol). It's a harmless chemical used as a base in perfumes.
 
jpeeler said:
I've always worried that adding too much oil to the wedge is gonna lubricate it, maybe break the friction easier? I put a little on top, but not much.
Click to expand...

I've pulled apart axe heads that have been soaked in BLO and let set for weeks hoping they'd tighten up, and I'd find liquid BLO still on the wedges. I've stopped adding it to my wedges when I set them, and I've all but given up on the 'soak it to tighten the fit' method. Just haven't had it work for me.
 
Yeah, if I'm gonna put something on a wedge, it's gonna be something like swel-lock. I don't think most oils will swell a wedge that much unless it had a lot of additives (like swell lock does).
 
I use Gorilla glue on both sides of the wedge -- it expands to fill any voids and makes a waterproof permabond--wedges have never come out for me ... The glue acts as a lubricant when driving the wedge and it will easily set deeper then a dry wedge. I wait 24 hours till its set and then drive the metal cross wedge because I know I wont crack the center wedge after the glue is set. Using this method the handle is already so tight and the voids are filled that the cross wedge goes in really hard. Then seal the end grain with clear nail polish lacquer to keep any moisture from escaping.

When the handle is .25" above the head I put my cross wedge on a 22-45 degree angle so its less apt to split the wood above the head and so it helps give more flare out to the sides.
 
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Another old trick that axemen used to keep a wedge in was to score the wedge on both side on a line where they anticipated the top of the eye to be after the wedge was driven home. The haft was left 1/4" proud as many of us still do. But the wedge, once driven home, was snapped off at the score lines. The protruding haft expanded over the top of the wedge, locking it in place.

I haven't tried this yet but it seems viable to me.
 
I think that would work ... but it may not be so aesthetically pleasing especially if you use a cross wedge.

Personally (since I glue the handle) I typically only leave the handle high if the head does not have a lot depth like in the Hudson bay style and I want some extra grip. Over time extended wood can take a pretty good beating and open cracks down into the eye for the entrance of moisture.
 
When I hang my axes I use a less wedge-shaped wedge and something more of a convex wedge. Sets in easy, and it doesn't come out.
 
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