wedging questions

Ohioan614 · Mar 8, 2015

I had a wedge crack in shipment. I am also looking to add some contrast to the eye. I have some what I believe to be red oak and either black walnut or black locus (its dark purple/black anyway).

I know that not all hardwoods are made the same. Any real concern as long as it is well dried? Also should I rotate the grain of the wedge 90* to the haft or keep it parallel?

Square_peg · Mar 8, 2015

Definitely rotate the grain 90° to the kerf. Wood has more compressive strength in this orientation (with a few exceptions) so it won't crush over time and come loose. I would pick locust over oak because it has a coarser grain that will bite into the kerf better. It's also more rot resistant.

300Six · Mar 8, 2015

Consensus on here is to use softwood wedges but I don't and never have. Piece of locust or walnut ought to look pretty sharp in there. End grain orientation of the wedge (as long as the wedge itself is length grain) is immaterial since it's contained within the head and serves only to lock the haft in place. Soft wood is more compressible and I notice that store-bought wedges have a lot more angle to them then ones I make/use. May explain why folks are generally eager to glue them in place. Something else I don't do.

Hacked · Mar 8, 2015

I'm no expert, but I've made a few wedges with some success and some failures at this point.

Basically softer woods for damaged kerfs, anything for clean ones. As long as the grain isn't horizontal you should be fine. I have started to make my wedges a decent bit wider than the eye to ensure a good fit, the eye with shave the wedge down for you.

garry3 · Mar 8, 2015

Like others have stated. Ninety deg to the kerf. Wood will expand and contract it does this mostly across the grain, so always orientate the wedge with this in mind.

I personally would not use Oak as it has a very open end grain. Moisture can actually travel through an oak board from one end to the other. I suspect oak could be used as a wick in an oil lamp.

Remzy · Mar 8, 2015

Could be Garry, but the open pores of oak also helps in sucking up alot, and i mean ALOT of linseed oïl Inside of the eye, so if you take good care of your axe head and the end of the handle, i think any hardwood would work fine.

garry3 · Mar 8, 2015

Remzy said:
Could be Garry, but the open pores of oak also helps in sucking up alot, and i mean ALOT of linseed oïl Inside of the eye, so if you take good care of your axe head and the end of the handle, i think any hardwood would work fine.

Plenty of guys use it with great success, so there is more than one way to skin a cat.

quinton · Mar 9, 2015

A little tip..I make the wedge about twice as long as needed, I then mark the length of the kerf onto the wedge for a reference point. I also chamfer the top of the wedge to prevent it from splitting as it is driven home.

Also..only Red Oak has the open pores, White Oak pores are tight as a drum.. literally, as it is used in cooperage for making barrels.

Ohioan614 · Mar 9, 2015

I "squared" the log into a blank that I can use power tools. Looking at it, its walnut not locust.

Belgrath04 · Mar 10, 2015

quinton said:
A little tip..I make the wedge about twice as long as needed, I then mark the length of the kerf onto the wedge for a reference point. I also chamfer the top of the wedge to prevent it from splitting as it is driven home.

Also..only Red Oak has the open pores, White Oak pores are tight as a drum.. literally, as it is used in cooperage for making barrels.

Ya beat me to it.
White oak, has its pores plugged with tyloses, which is how they can use it for water-tight vessels (Barrels), and give it increased resistance to rot and decay.

BG_Farmer · Mar 10, 2015

quinton said:
A little tip..I make the wedge about twice as long as needed, I then mark the length of the kerf onto the wedge for a reference point. I also chamfer the top of the wedge to prevent it from splitting as it is driven home.

Also..only Red Oak has the open pores, White Oak pores are tight as a drum.. literally, as it is used in cooperage for making barrels.

Last one, I had a lot of eye to fill front and back, so I tapered the wedge slightly front and back, then rounded it roughly before insertion. Fit very well.

quinton · Mar 10, 2015

BG_Farmer said:
Last one, I had a lot of eye to fill front and back, so I tapered the wedge slightly front and back, then rounded it roughly before insertion. Fit very well.

I've had to do that as well on occasion, I like the eye as full as possible, and that's one way to get it full.. It does pay to spend a lil' time when making the wedge.