Weekend Project Khukuris for 7/19

[Yangdu]

Due to Nevada dry weather those Khukuris satisal wooden handle develoved a huge crack and I am offering them with a Kami medical fundraiser sheath.

17.5 inch 28 ounce Ang Khola by Rajkumar. Superb blade. Take it for $75.

16 inch 24 ounce WWII by Tirtha. Great blade. Yours for $65. *SOLD*

Email to himimp@aol.com to get any or all
First come first served

 

[Steve Tall]

Tempting to get both even though I have the equivalent khuks.

I wouldn't be surprised if a good soaking in tung oil would up close the cracks.

A wooden carving purchased in Asia developed a lot of cracks and I put it in storage. A year or two later, after moving to a more humid climate, all the cracks were gone.

 

[45_Fan]

17.5 inch 28 ounce Ang Khola by Rajkumar - email sent

 

[chazmr]

e-mail sent earlier on the WWII

 

[davidf99]

....

I wouldn't be surprised if a good soaking in tung oil would up close the cracks.

A wooden carving purchased in Asia developed a lot of cracks and I put it in storage. A year or two later, after moving to a more humid climate, all the cracks were gone.

I've thought about trying that technique. My concern is that once the wood fibers separate, the strength wouldn't be there even if you can close the gap by making the wood swell up with tung oil or any other treatment. Or the crack might get narrower without closing completely, and then it's harder to get glue in there.

My inclination is to press epoxy or superglue as deep as you can into the crack while it is wide open. After the glue cures, then treat the handle with tung oil or something else to keep it from drying out and developing future cracks.

This would apply to a deep crack, where handle strength might become an issue during use. For a more superficial crack it may be enough to let swelling close the crack. I think the same idea would apply to wood and to horn.

I hope some forumites who've tried both techniques and put them to the test over a period of time (and use) can weigh in here.

-- Dave

 

[Steve Tall]

... My concern is that once the wood fibers separate, the strength wouldn't be there even if you can close the gap by making the wood swell up with tung oil or any other treatment. Or the crack might get narrower without closing completely, and then it's harder to get glue in there.

My inclination is to press epoxy or superglue as deep as you can into the crack while it is wide open. After the glue cures, then treat the handle with tung oil or something else to keep it from drying out and developing future cracks.

This would apply to a deep crack, where handle strength might become an issue during use. For a more superficial crack it may be enough to let swelling close the crack. I think the same idea would apply to wood and to horn...

-- Dave

Giving it more thought, I agree with you. The cracks may go all the way to the tang hole, requiring strong glue or a new handle. In any case, good deals for these khuks, and nice weights.

 

[wildmanh]

I've thought about trying that technique. My concern is that once the wood fibers separate, the strength wouldn't be there even if you can close the gap by making the wood swell up with tung oil or any other treatment. Or the crack might get narrower without closing completely, and then it's harder to get glue in there.

My inclination is to press epoxy or superglue as deep as you can into the crack while it is wide open. After the glue cures, then treat the handle with tung oil or something else to keep it from drying out and developing future cracks.

This would apply to a deep crack, where handle strength might become an issue during use. For a more superficial crack it may be enough to let swelling close the crack. I think the same idea would apply to wood and to horn.

I hope some forumites who've tried both techniques and put them to the test over a period of time (and use) can weigh in here.

-- Dave

Dave, I agree with you. Epoxy/glue should be used to repair the cracks. When I've fixed Horn handles with cracks like these in the past I've used JB Weld. I press it into the cracks and leave extra sticking out above the surface of the handle. That way when it dries, if the JB weld shrinks, I still have plenty which I can then sand smooth with the handle.