wegner professional hunter and s30v

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daryl douthat

Joined
Jun 12, 2000
Messages
54
Now that people have had these for a while, I wonder how they like them in actual use. I have the earlier spyderco version and objected to two features: (1) harder to get a shaving sharp edge with ats 34 than with aus8a, and, (2) for me at least, the handle was not ergonomic since it was too "banana" shaped.(By contrast, the $40 CRKT Alaska Bwana has a very comfortable handle and the aus 6m is very easy to get shaving sharp and lasts for a moose if one is careful not to cut sand in the hide.)

Will the s30v of the Blade Tech take a shaving sharp edge with, e.g., a spyderco sharpmaker and, is the handle comfortable? It appears to be a lot less banana shaped but also thinner. (I wish it were thicker and had a back spacer. A nice zytel Ken Onion hand filling shape would be fine with me).
 
I have a PH from Tim [ Blade-tech ] that is in the loop to be reviewed sometime before the end of the year hopefully.

I have the large spyder wegner and now the PH from Balde-tech.

Look for the review later this year.

Brownie
 
Hard to wait for the review! My birthday is coming up and want to know if this is a good item to ask for. Oh well. Don't need to do any serious hunting this year anyway. Still have plenty of meat, even made some stir-fry with trapline lynx. Pretty good stuff.
 
Once you get better at sharpening an ATS-34 blade should not be that difficult at all to put an amazingly sharp edge on. Once you do that it will hold that edge for much longer than AUS 8.

I've only heard good things about the Wegner knives from Bladetech. S30V is a great steel. Might be a little harder to sharpen than ATS-34, but yet again, it will hold an edge for much longer than ATS-34.
-Kevin
 
The question of sharpening ats 34 vs aus 8a and some other steels has been thrashed out in various threads and the line "once you learn how to sharpen ats 34 it will be as easy as aus 8a" is just wrong. Well, maybe it's right if you carry a workbench and a generator around with you. If you doubt this, try sharpening an ats 34 blade and a similar aus 8a blade (similar in edge geometry) and actually shaving with them. Use e.g.,a Sharpmaker to "standardize" the sharpening procedure. (Or at least use a system that doesn't require a source of electrical power.) Ats 34 just doesn't take a shaving sharp edge very easily and the difference in edge holding may be worth it to some but not to me. My criterion is that the edge should last for dressing out one moose. Hitting sand or dirt in the hide invalidates the test no matter what the steel.

For those who have the knife, even if you haven't used it much, how does it feel in your hand? Can you get it shaving sharp with a Sharpmaker with a modest amount of effort? Have you dressed out any dead things with it yet? How does the handle feel when you need to use some real pressure to cut something tough?
 
I've probably sharpened over 200 knives in ats-34, maybe closer to 400 in reality, it is one of the easiest steels to sharpen on the spyderco sharpmaker for me. It takes a razor edge quiote well, then again, I don't let them get to be butter knives beforehand either.

I like that steel and 154cm, vg-10, a-2, 01, d-2.

About the ONLY steel that doesn't take well to the sharpmaker or sharpening in general for me is the ats-55. Now that steel just is not worth the trouble in sharpening.

In over 10,000 knives sharpened in the last decade I've never had a steel not take well to the sharpmaker with the exception of that ats-55 crap.

Brownie
 
Brownie,

Not interested in a peeing match (which you win decisively on total number of knives sharpened), but your conclusion is not that of other very experienced persons who have commented on other threads. I think even cliff stamp concedes the point now. (And I don't claim to be as expert as many others here.) Apparently grain size plays a critical role. I don't let them get to be butterknives either, but I am serious about the difference between being literally shaving sharp and just real sharp. I find that the Sharpmaker produces hair popping sharpness easily with aus 8a and I've given up trying to get that routinely on the sharpmaker with the Spyderco Tim Wegner.

Have you(or anyone else) dressed out any big game yet with the Blade Tech? If so , how did it work compared to your other hunting knives. I'm beginning to think that very few people on this forum ever get non-human blood on their "hunting" knives. :D
 
I am aware of others having some issues ocassionally with ats-34 from the threads, I just have never had an ats-34 blade behave like described.

Now ats-55 on the other hand is a bit$h to get a decent edge on, yet others find ats-55 acceptable. I just can not say why that is with some having difficutly and others not so with the same steels on the same makers knives.

The two stainlesses I'm most familiar with in shaprening for others has been aus6/8 and ats34 [ because it's commonly used and popular ].

The easiest has been 154cm, ats34, a-2, d-2, and vg-10. Not in any particular order.

The only other steel that was a real problem for me was a SOG product years ago, not sure on the stainless used then, but I could not put an edge on that knife that would cut butter, let alone anything else.

I wasn't attempting to rain on or dispute anyones claims that certain steels are easy or difficult, and in fact have heard others think the ats-55 was easy [ which for me was literally impossible, I gave up and handed the knife back after an hour when it takes no more than 10 minutes from butterknife to shaving sharp for most knives I run into at the gunclub on Sunday am's].

Brownie
 
"once you learn how to sharpen ats 34 it will be as easy as aus 8a" is just wrong.
Click to expand...
I'm guessing you are talking about my comment? Take a look at what I said again:

Once you get better at sharpening an ATS-34 blade should not be that difficult at all to put an amazingly sharp edge on.
Click to expand...

Notice "not that difficult". I never said as easy as Aus 8... becuase it won't be. It will still be very easy though, and I agree with Brownie that I have never had any trouble putting on a shaving edge.
-Kevin
 
The only steel that I just give up on was a custom blade from 440V, don't know what they call it now. But I just couldn't sharpen it on a STONE. Any steel is easily sharpened on a belt sander & buffer. Try it and I would recommend a cheap one for anyone who has trouble sharpening. You won't remove much steel at all once you become good with it, and you need to practice on cheap kitchen knives, etc; first.
I love sharpening custom and all sorts of edged objects, there are many, many, guys here who are truly experts at knife sharpening. I don't consider myself one though.
 
ATS34 is harder than AUS8 and if both blades and edges are identical, the AUS8 should be easier to sharpen. I often use a Sharpmaker. My experience has been that ATS34 is harder to sharpen than AUS8. I find VG-10 a real easy steel to maintain an edge with and is easier to sharpen than ATS34. However, I also cannot raise a hair popping shaving edge on some ATS34 blades (Benchmade stryker and spike) no matter how much I try. The edge is sharp, cuts well, even shaves hair, but just doesn't seem as sharp an AUS8 or VG-10 blade. Don't know why. I've read here that it could be the Benchmade edge geometry or heat treat (i.e. grain size) but I've got no real clue. I have a couple of ATS55 knives and it is as easy as AUS8 for me. I've never heard of anything like Brownie's experience with that steel.
 
I have had mine for a little while. It sees more carry time than any other knife in my rotation. I haven't let it get dull before I touch it up, so I can't really say how hard it would be to sharpen from a dull state. I will say that it holds an edge quite well and is touched up easily enough. I would rather keep a knife sharp than to let it get dull and then sharpen it.

The handle isn't as banana shaped as the Spyderco version. I found the Spyderco version quite comfortable, but the subtle changes to the Blade-tech version are still comfortable to me. If the shape of Spyderco's Wegner was too pronounced for you the redesigned Pro hunter handle may be just what the doctor ordered.

The Pro hunter is thinner, but it has dual nested liners for added strength and rigidity.

The Pro hunter keeps finding its way into my pocket. So much so that other knives don't excite me as much. I really like it. It is an already awesome design that evolved to the next level.

Brownie, I know your full blown review isn't done yet but what are your initial impressions?
 
shootist16 :

Initial impressions on the PH are that I like it. I actually have a Spyder Wegner Large clip it [ same4 design as the PH ]in my collection from years ago. I bought it and have carried it with defense in mind [ I do not hunt four legged game ]over the years.

I have carried the PH for several days. It sits well in the pocket, is easily retrieved, made from the good stuff [ s30v and G-10 ] and has a blade design that is conducive to defense [ having a strong thick point for penetration and not worrying about snapping it off, and a blade design that was made to excel at several chores, not hte least of which is slicing skin of a carcass ].

Most have probably not thought about the design Tim Wegner has created relative defensive use but the knife suits the operators needs well in that role, though it was not primarily designed with that in mind, what it was designed for fits well and translates to an effective knife for my intended use. It crosses over easily through design and materials.

If it passes the spine whack test [ it is a linerlock ]I believe it is not lacking in too much defensively speaking. It's lightweight, flat in profile which is conducive to blade manipulation drills ], and appears to be well executed by Blade-tech.

If I were a hunter and used a straight blade in lieu of the folder for such chores as skinning and capping, I'd be prone to buy a PH as a backup at all times. I can't say it excels at the hunters needs as I'm not a hunter but looking over the parameters and understanding from my Uncle who has looked at it and does take game year round, the consensus is that it is very nice indeed.

Like I said, I owned the design with defense in mind years ago when Tim authorized Spyderco to produce the design. It is not carried often but it has been carried enough. Are there better suited knives for defense? Of course, but the PH will see you through the night and not fail you if you are up to the task in my estimation.

We'll get to the tsting on this hopefully by X-mas, if not by Feb 04.

Brownie
 
I've carried my Wegner Pro-Hunter for a few months now as my EDC of choice. It supplanted the Benchmade 806D2 because of its shorter blade length. The Pro-Hunter is 3-5/16" from tip to plunge line and 3-5/8" from tip to scales.

I haven't undertaken any formal or organized testing of the Wegner PH. So what follows is just $0.02 of my subjective impressions of the knife. Daryl, sorry, but I haven't dressed or caped out any game with the knife. The closest I've come to that has been trimming fresh beef in the kitchen, which the knife handled with total aplomb. However, given some experience in the past with small game and fish, I would expect the PH to perform well for such cleaning chores.

The PH is my only S30V blade and it laughs at my light usage. Mostly I use it for disposing of junk mail, opening lightweight boxes, busting up cardboard, food prep, and slicing food at mealtime. I give it a few licks on a Sharpmaker if I think of it as I'm sharpening other blades. Which is to say its maintenance is sporadic at best.

Good points about the Blade-Tech Pro-Hunter:
- Insanely secure in hand. The handle shape, rough-textured G10, and traction grooves milled into the ricasso choil bottom, liner, and especially on the blade/hump spine just seem to lock this knife totally in hand. The fact that it's the first thing that jumps to my mind among this knife's good points may indicate how noticible it is to me.
- Blade shape is quite useful. When I ordered the knife, I was worried about the blade shape and the angle between the blade and handle. Somehow it looked too much like a swept-tip Persian fighter to be all that useful. I needn't have worried. After all, IIRC Tim Wegner's been a hunter for quite a few years. Even if he hasn't, he's obviously gotten plenty of feedback from guys stomping through the woods in search of Bambi's old man. If you ignore the semi-Spydie-hole hump, the PH blade is actually a pretty standard drop point.
- No staining or rusting of the blade yet. Acidic food hasn't bothered it in the least IME.
- I like the open back of the knife. That makes it easy to flush out any crud that makes its way inside the liners.
- Sturdy construction inspires confidence. I don't worry about having to baby this knife at all. I think part of this feeling comes from the rather rough-textured, rugged exterior surfaces. This knife screams that it's a straight-ahead user blade. IMHO there's nothing about it that would lead you to treat it as a fluffy eye-candy art-blade.
- Using the corners of the white Sharpmaker rods, the S30V takes an edge with just a touch of tooth to it. That's how I prefer my edges. So I can't speak to "shaving sharp" since I don't usually go for a terribly polished edge. Nonetheless, I just tested it and could shave with some of the belly of the blade, but not the straight portion. So I've obviously got some variability on my sharpening results.
- Seems to hold an edge well compared to some of the other (albeit cheaper: AUS8a, 52100, 1095, etc) steels I have around here.
- Four-way clip positioning. Has drilled holes for all carry combinations: left, right, tip-up, tip-down. Definitely one that the Lefties in the crowd can applaud.

Bad points about the Blade-Tech Pro-Hunter:
- Price is too high. ;) :D :rolleyes: Hmmm.... I seem to have paid it anyway and I do think the knife is a very good value.
- While it hasn't destroyed any pants for me yet, I suspect this knife will "chew" at pocket edges during insertion and extraction more than my other folders due to the sharp edges on the traction grooves along the blade spine. I'm especially concerned about the grooves on the back of the thumb-hole hump grabbing at pocket fabric when extracting the knife from my pocket. I carry it tip-down, so those grooves are part of the leading edge of the knife as it comes out of the pocket.

Overall I REALLY like the knife. Given the number of options I have available for my primary EDC, the fact that this is the one in my pocket virtually every day speaks volumes about my affection for and trust in this knife.

Pic of the PH with some fixed-blades here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=266969
 
Thanks to all for the feedback. I think I'll wait to hold one of these to see how it feels. I suspect that this is a knife that is fine for edc and tactical use in part because it is slim and has a pocket clip position to suit everyone's taste. I will be interested to see the results of some formal testing but I think the main drawback for my uses is that nice slender handle. I much prefer one that is a little "fat" for extended use. Also, given the combination of slender handle and no back spacer, exerting some real force to cut something like a dried out moose tendon is not likely to be fun. For ergonomic handles, I have been spoiled by long time use of a Kershaw folding field. I rarely carry my folders with pocket clip in my pocket(use a belt sheath) for a bunch of reasons. Consequently, a slender handle is not really preferred for my uses. So far, for one-handed opening and light weight, the CRKT Alaska Bwana for $40 or so has the best blade shape and handle geometry for me for a serious hunting knife. And here I was hoping to spend more money.
 
Originally posted by daryl douthat
Thanks to all for the feedback. I think I'll wait to hold one of these to see how it feels.
Click to expand...

Blade Art has them for like $94. I am so convinced that you will like it that I am willing to make an offer. If you get one and don't like the way it feels, I will buy it from you. That is as long as it is in like new condition.
 
shootist16,

What a nice offer! Will almost certainly take you up on it. Will let you know for sure as soon as I catch up on sleep. (Didn't get much last night. Had to take a team of sled dogs in for their annual vet visit and early is not my time of day.) If I do and don't like the knife, it will get to you in pristine condition.

Someone mentioned getting custom scales for their "Wegner". That would be one way to fatten up the knife a bit for my type of use and my arthritic hands. I wonder how much trouble and expense that would be.

Daryl Douthat
 
Originally posted by daryl douthat
shootist16,

What a nice offer!
Click to expand...

I like the Wegner a lot and have no problem putting my money where my mouth is. Either way I would love to here what you think of it.
 
I am not sure if this was ever posted anywhere, but here are some thoughts regarding the design of the Wegner pro-hunter:

"What I require in a hunter’s knife is that it must perform any and all of the cutting chores that I demand of it in the field.

Most people look at a hunting knife as being primarily a skinning knife and neglect five other very important tasks: field dressing, quartering, boning, disjointing, and caping. All of these tasks can be accomplished with one knife and without the aid of an ax or a saw. Another task that must be mentioned is the use as a survival tool in the event of a backcountry emergency.

I designed the Wegner Professional Hunter to be a multi-tasking knife that will accomplish all that a back country hunter requires of it in the field and still keep it’s edge. Keep in mind that any knife will dull if it is used to cut through the dirty hair of a game animal. It is ideal for large Whitetails and Mule deer but really excels on moose and elk sized game.

When I use the term back country hunter, I am referring to a person who does most of his hunting far off the beaten path. This type of hunting requires the most efficient, lightweight, and tough equipment that you can afford. This is especially true when the fun stops and the work starts, you are five miles from camp, and you have to make several back breaking trips packing out 150 lb elk quarters.

Just imagine this wonderful little scenario. You are knee deep in snow doing the field work on an elk or large mule deer that’s been tied to a tree because your standing on a steep 45 degree slope, a bitter wind blowing in your face and oh yeah it’s dark, snowing and you are miles from camp. Your only light source is the flashlight hanging out of your mouth.
I have been in these types of situations more than once.
If you have ever had the pleasure of working under similar condition, you’ll appreciate the benefits of having a knife built to get the job done under the most extreme circumstances!

The concept of using one knife to do all the field work saves on the hassle of having to carry the extra weight of three or four specialty knives far into the field. (I must confess though, I always carry a backup folder in my pack or vest and of course it's a Wegner Professional Hunter).

The modified Loveless style semi-skinner blade is dropped enough to open a carcass without snagging the paunch. The skinning belly is comprised of a gradual sweep that works great removing the hide from the largest game by using an even rocking motion utilizing the blade's full belly rather than the tip.

Caping is more of a specialty chore and many hunters elect to have their taxidermist do it. Oh yes, I realize not everyone is a trophy hunter, but I'll bet there are a good number of hunters who, like me, will not turn down a nice trophy if the opportunity arises. The knife's tip is strong and sharp and not only aids in opening up the body cavity, but more importantly, its’ sharpness gives it the ability to perform intricate cutting chores where precision control is required. The thin flat ground blade is just right for cutting flesh, but will take heavy abuse such as the demanding jobs of disjointing and quartering.


The handle was designed to fit all hands with or without gloves. The large “V” opening hole makes deploying the blade an easy one handed operation. The handle is ergonomically shaped and comfortable for long periods of time in all configurations. The spine has 3 sets of serrations for precision finger placement and control when performing delicate cutting operations. The choil is also serrated. All of the serrations serve to give one the ability to index the blade so you know where the tip and cutting edge is at all times. A piece of nylon cord in the thong hole comes in handy working in deep snow or over water. Ever dropped a knife in 3 feet of snow?

These are just some of the considerations that went into the design of the Wegner Professional Hunters knife they were derived from my 35 or so years of field experience."

Thank you

Tim Wegner
President
Blade-Tech Ind. Inc.




SPECIFICATIONS For:
The BLADE-TECH “Wegner Professional Hunters Knife”

• Blade Steel - 1/8th inch thick CPM-S30V (Flat ground)
• RC 58-60
• Blade length 3 5/8”
• Overall Closed Length 4 7/8”
• Overall Open Length 8 ½”
• Blade-Tech V-Hole
• Eccentric blade adjustment mechanism
• Ambidextrous tip up / tip down pocket clip
• Double nested liners with radius ramp liner lock
• Choice of G-10 or Carbon fiber scales
• Weight 4.3 oz.
 
Appreciate the replies and kind offer of Mr. Bible. After thinking about this a bit further and getting over my dislike of the name Griptillian for much of anything, I got a Griptillian 551 in D2 from Cabella's. My first Benchmade and I think it is an ideal folder for my purposes. In my opinion, it is overall a better design for a hunting folder than the Blade Tech Pro Hunter. It is also well-designed for edc in the woods. The blade shape and size are ideal for everthing from field dressing big game and cleaning fish to slicing tomatoes for a sandwich. I prefer thumb studs to a hole for this type knife since I often use the back of the blade for things like scaling grayling or sweeping chopped onions into a bowl. The shape of the grip and the "checkered" Zytel feel just right to me. Very nice for use at cold temps when a metal handle is really uncomfortable. A very "grippy" ergonomic non-slab handle that will be fine when I really have to put some muscle into a cut and when the knife will be in use for a few hours and there is plenty of blood and gore that would make an elegant carbon fiber handle or the equivalent dangerously slippery. This is the first D2 blade I have had and it will be interesting to see how it does but no reason to expect it to be anything but excellent for holding an edge and resharpening. It is the sharpest knife out of the box that I have purchased (for $70 plus shipping). My only quibble is that I wish it came in some bright colors like the mini-Griptillian does. Finding a black knife on a black moose hide or in the grass and leaves where it has fallen can be annoying. As for the name "Griptillian", I suggest that the identical knife be sold with a name like "Alaska Wilderness Hunter". But then no one has ever accused me of having marketing skills.

Hoodoo: I think you suggested a Benchmade to me a couple of years ago. Took me a while!
 
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