Welder for canister and dry weld damascus billets

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Welder for canister and dry weld damascus billets

I have a stick arc welder.


I am looking at MIG and or TIG machines
I like the flexibility and clean welds versus stick.

Of course I will use it for other jobs, but in terms of setting up for dry welds, san mai and other billets, which is a better process?

MIG is fast
I like the idea of TIG base metal welds so I don't contaminate the billet with filler rod.


Both would be nice.

any machine recommendations ?

Edited to add, I'm only considering brand named machines, Miller, Lincoln and others that I can get at my local welding suppliers
- to ensure long term availability of parts and consumables (contact tips, spool gun, liners, drive wheels and such)
 
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The only machines I hear of being recommended are Lincoln. I don't weld, but I have quite a few friends who made livings at it with Lincoln machines.


-Xander
 
I use a small Lincoln MIG, run as a wire welder, no gas. The billet sides and ends are going to be trashed anyway. After the weld is well set, grind it clean and double check that all welds are tight....then procede.

I use this welder for all my welding chores. If I need a bigger or better weld ( like a salt pot tube), I take it to the machine shop and have a pro do it. The advantage to me is I can weld thin sheet metal or 1/4" plates with it.
 
I have a miller autostart 180. It's a good machine, but I have it set up for flux core now until I get a gas bottle then will go mig. I don't care for the flux core, but it will work for now.
 
I have welded for many years. I have a Lincoln Power Mig 200 and it is a beast. Lincoln and Miller are easily comparable machines. Just make sure to get a gas set up with it, flux core will splatter alot and not have the quality welds that gas shielding can offer.
 
I weld TIG\MIG\STICK and do not see any difference for closing the box or welding the packet. TIG would be overkill for the box. Actually I use stick for all operations. MIG is good for thin metal. TIG is good for demanding jobs, like SS pressure canister. Stick is more or less versatile. Just get use to it, adjust the current and choose proper stick.
2cents.
 
Between stick, gas and tig the stick welder is used the most. Each has its specific uses but a stick welder with both pos. and neg switching and a good range of settings will cover most knife shop jobs.

Fred
 
Hobart Handler mig. I've glued cars together with mine.
Online prices for welders are much better than walk-in prices. i paid near 30% less plus free shipping when I pulled the trigger on my 165.
 
I think 10 people will give you 10 answers.

Personally, I feel a small wire feed will just piss you off. Most of the small "hobby" units aren't going to give you good weld penetration on anything much thicker than sheet metal. A bigger, 220 machine will work for just about anything in a knife shop.

You could always go with dual shield--- flux core wire with a coverage gas like 75% Argon 25% CO2... you get deep penetration and smooth welds.

TIG is an awesome process but will be overkill for the stuff you mentioned. The parts to be welded need to be ground completely clean. Any contaminants will just get deposited into your weld and look like dog crap.

But with all that said, a good quality AC/DC stick welder should do most anything a knifemaker would need to do, and give very solid and cosmetic welds with a steady hand and practice. I have a lot more versatility running 1/8" 7018 rod (can easily run horizontal, vertical up hand, overhead, etc) than I do with my 220 wire-feed... the wire is just simpler for most tasks laying on the bench in front of you.
 
Most 110V (and even a few 220V) "flux-core" welders are little more than sticking things together like a "dirt-dobber". Like Nick said above, TIG is a little overkill, even though, once mastered, sure makes some pretty welds. Do yourself a favor and spend a few extra bucks and get a good unit. A gas mix of 75-25 will handle most of your needs. 100% argon makes prettier welds on most stuff, but is also more expensive.

I spent most of my young life running nothing but "stick" welders, and got pretty good at it. Once I pulled the trigger on a quality MIG, I threw rocks at the stick machine.

Robert (who can't even solder with a set of directions)
 
Thanks for the replies.

I should get better with rods and settings & would improve with stick, but I'm not against new tools.




Nick and Robert

The 110v units are not even in consideration.

I saw someone once use one of those hardware store brand buzz boxes.
underpowered, blobby, stuck rods, half assed beads and blown fuses (sold as a non CSA rated item with a 15 amp plug, but a 20 amp draw)

That made an impression
220v units only from a specialty welding supplier.
or a used industrial unit ( that will run on single phase 220 )
I've also got my eye on the duty cycle when I'm looking at specs.

Robert, that sounds like the upgrade I'm hoping for.


Like Nick said, I can get good welds with the stick & 7018 rod

( not skilled enough for vertical or overhead though)
I'll still keep stick for heavy structure deep penetration, but chipping is ticking me off when I know i can avoid it.



I'm reading online reviews and have read that the old style constant voltage supplies are much better than the new pulsing wave forms.



Any more machine recommendations?
 
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Thing about a DC stick machine is I can switch from 3/32 7018 to 309 stainless rod to 1/16 6013 or 3/16 7018 in seconds and weld anything from 1/16 to 1"+ plate.

I have a Miller XMT 350 which I can plug anything into. Serious machine that you see on lots of industrial welding jobs. Do anything but aluminum tig. I can fix that with a high freq box.

I have a LN25 wire feed unit that plugs into my XMT, I also have a Miller 220v wire feed too. The wire feeds are covered in dust, because its easier to select my rod, drag my welder leads to where I want them, dial in my current and weld. If I had some real thin sheet metal I might get some .023 wire and use the wire feed. I do have a cut down whip for it and special drive wheels and it will do ok on aluminum.
 
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