Okay guys, here's my question. Can 416 stainless bolsters be welded to a HT ATS34 shank/handle via tig welding ? I will be surrounding the blade with a heavy wraping of cotton soaking wet with water to protect any heat transfer to actual blade. The holes for the bolster pins weren't drilled before blade was HT so even tho carbide bits can be used, welding came to mind. I had given thought to drilling a 1/8th" hole in the center of all front & rear bolsters to receive welding rod. Well, these are my thoughts on the question & my solution --- please lend me your expertise and opinions. Much appreciated.
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Welding ATS34 to blade shank ?
- Thread starter Ken Hurst
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- Jan 13, 2006
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Ken, it can be done. I personally would use straight flute solid carbide drill bit. Drill the holes and mount the Bolsters,
Ken
There is very little strength in a plug weld like you described, especially one of only 1/8"dia. Not to mention, I really don't think you'd have much luck @ performing a plug weld through a 1/8" dia hole.
Persoinally I like using the small carbide burrs made for dremels when going through hardened steel. It won't be easy, but it shouldn't be. You screwed up and now you must pay so you don't make the same mistake twice.
That is part of your sacrifice to the steel gods for forgetting to drill the bolster holes prior to HT In 10 mins you'll be through and the burrs are not that expensive, and last a long time. I think I got mine from Ace hardware.
I have never tried the solid carbide bits, though I've heard they work great. I bought the burr instead b/c I can use it for more than drilling holes.
Matt Doyle
There is very little strength in a plug weld like you described, especially one of only 1/8"dia. Not to mention, I really don't think you'd have much luck @ performing a plug weld through a 1/8" dia hole.
Persoinally I like using the small carbide burrs made for dremels when going through hardened steel. It won't be easy, but it shouldn't be. You screwed up and now you must pay so you don't make the same mistake twice.
That is part of your sacrifice to the steel gods for forgetting to drill the bolster holes prior to HT In 10 mins you'll be through and the burrs are not that expensive, and last a long time. I think I got mine from Ace hardware.I have never tried the solid carbide bits, though I've heard they work great. I bought the burr instead b/c I can use it for more than drilling holes.
Matt Doyle
Nathan the Machinist
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Would any of the weld area be visible after the weld? If so, it will be nearly impossible to finish smooth because variations in hardness will cause waves. This is the trouble when welding on molds - the area is about impossible to blend perfectly.
If it is not visible, yes you can weld. But, welds to high carbon steel tend to be brittle because there is no ductility as the weld cools and shrinks. You can preheat everything to reduce the issue. Any weld will need to be tempered after it cools or it will be weak.
I have had better luck doing this with stainless filler rod than the regular stuff, it might be more ductile. I have not had much luck doing this without any rod, it usually cracks.
If it were me, I'd drill it.
If it is not visible, yes you can weld. But, welds to high carbon steel tend to be brittle because there is no ductility as the weld cools and shrinks. You can preheat everything to reduce the issue. Any weld will need to be tempered after it cools or it will be weak.
I have had better luck doing this with stainless filler rod than the regular stuff, it might be more ductile. I have not had much luck doing this without any rod, it usually cracks.
If it were me, I'd drill it.
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2007
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- 3,375
Ken, preheat the areas next to the weld to about 500f. Use 309 rod for filler, do a full penetration weld so there are no voids. After it has cooled heat weld to red and allow to slow cool a couple times and you should be good to go. I would only do it in an unexposed area like Nathan suggests.