Welding Damascus

M

Mike Taylor

Joined
Dec 23, 2003
Messages
61
Hello,
Anyone out there have experience welding damascus. I have several small pieces of Devon Thomas damascus that I would like to use, but I would have to weld a tang on them as they are not big enough otherwise. Any suggestions as far as what material to use for the hidden tang and what pitfalls I might encounter? Thanks.
Mike
 
My first choise would be to forge a tange. Half to 3/4 of an inch of blade will forge our to quite a long stick tange depending on what you start with.

If you don't have the equipment. I would be inclined to cut at half inch of tang to get past the guard. Then the problem with welding thin plate or sticks is they melt.

The way to over come that is to fold a -u- shape of copper plate with the - sides level with the top of the U. Weld the stick inside the u turn it 90 degrees and weld the other side then grind those two welds back to level or almost level with the original thickness and if neccesary repeat on the other two sides. The copper hold the molten metal in place. The steal weld does not stick to the copper. The u shape lets you build the stick up thicker.

Cover your damascus blade or you will get welding splatter on it.
I maily use the described method for restoring rusted stick tangs on old pieces .


Other considerations. If you cut a stick into a good piece of damascus and have an off cut 1 inch buy 1/2 inch or there abouts, you will be supprised how that can be forged into a little blade much larger as the metal is drawn out and thined. Not just minatures small working blades.
 
Mike ,depends on what the Damascus materials are. The Damascus I use most of the time is O-1 and 1095.I usually weld a piece of O-1 to it for the tan, and use MIG or TIG.If Devin's stuff is stainless you will need a TIG.
Be sure to run the Damascus about an inch behind the guard so the joint is in the handle.Also be sure to bevel the joint good. Hope this helps.Dave :)
 
In this case I would forge out a 1'' tang off the blade and grind a V into the end of it. Then, since most of my damascus is based with 1084/95, I would take a piece of such grind a point into it to match the V and MIG weld them together. They won't come apart. If it's stainless, that won't help much though.
 
I am assuming you are grinding,not forging.
I use mid-carbon steel,like 5160 or 1050.MIG weld it on with a bevel to the ends.Build it up a bit and grind it smooth.Welds tend to air harden,so anneal the blade before working on it or the hardened weld may snap.
Other tips - Cover the blade area with foil to keep the spatter from sticking to the blade.When grinding the blade make the weld at least 3/4" from the ricasso.On a heavy use knife 1 to 1.5" is better.Take stainless to a TIG welder and use ATS-34 or similar for the weld.(I have MIG welded it and it worked,but I would not recommend it).Weld the tang on before grinding the blade (I know,it seems common sense,but you wouldn't believe how many times people ask how to weld a tang on a hardened blade). Weld it full width of the stock and grind/saw the tang in.That way you are not welding in corners or up to a finished side.
 
Thanks for the help. I have both stainless (raindrop) and high carbon (spirograph). I had planned to use a threaded pommel. Can I weld on stainless all thread or a stainless bolt as a tang?
Mike
 
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