Welding up a forklift tine post anvil. looking for advice

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Railrider1920

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Dec 14, 2010
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Hey folks, I'm planning on welding up some pieces from a forklift tine to make a post anvil. From what I have read, they should be used in the vertical position like to one on the right in post number 9 in this thread: http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=5515 This one has two pieces. I might make mine with three pieces.

When I lay the pieces on top of each other to position them I'll be using some hand screw F clamps to hold them in place. Will these clamps hold them together tight enough while they get welded? Not tight enough to hold them in place, but when they clamps are removed after it has been welded, will that be ok? I might be able to use a two ton press in a mechanics shop to hold them together while they are being welded. Would that be better than the hand clamps?

The thread I linked to, someone mentioned that the steel might be 4130. If that is the type of steel I have or at least close to it, can anyone recommend the correct type of welding rod to use and amperage? I'll be using is an arc welder with adjustable amperage. But then again, I might have a qualified welder do it.

The side edges are rounded over. I think that might be enough of a grove to weld into. Should the top be welded too or is welding just the sides good enough?

Thanks for any suggestions
 
The anvil shown has the two parts just tacked together ?? Is it welded together fully on top ? It should be and the sides too. . It might be 4130 , a good choice for forks but would be heat treated . Preheat and post heat would be a good idea. Clamps are all you need .
 
I'd probably pre-heat like Mete says, with a weed burner torch. You can get a Tempil stick for 450 degrees or so at your welding supply, that much shouldn't affect the HT of the steel a lot but will improve the weld. I'd probably use 7018 or even 8018 if you can get it. You want to have your joints beveled enough that after the root pass it takes several more passes on top to fill the joint. I'd say at least a 3/8" bevel with 1/8" rod.

+1 as well to just using clamps. Do tack the whole thing together thoroughly with strong tacks before running the main beads.

For amperage with 1/8" 7018, try 120-140 amps AC. With DC you could maybe go a little bit lower. Just watch what happens when you're tacking, and adjust the amperage as needed. The edges of the puddle should lock in well, and when finished the bead shouldn't be too tall. Better to run a little hot than a little cold. The other main variable is your travel speed. Too fast and it will look uneven and pitted/spattery, too slow and you'll have excess width. Arc length is easier to dial in, but if it's too long you'll also get spatter and a superficial bead.

You may already know this stuff, and there are certainly more qualified people around here to give you welding advice than myself. Hope it helps, though.
 
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Exactly what I was looking for guys!

Salem Straub said:
You may already know this stuff, and there are certainly more qualified people around here to give you welding advice than myself. Hope it helps, though.
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Good info. No actually much of it is new stuff to me. I learned a little about welding years ago and forgot just about all of it. I have been playing around with the welder just putting some smaller stuff together. I have some scrap pieces that are fairly thick I'll have to cut up and weld back together for practice. If that doesn't turn out well, I'll probably have to have a welder do it for me.

mete said:
Preheat and post heat would be a good idea. Clamps are all you need .
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While playing around with welding up the smaller pieces, I have found that it seems to go easier if the steel is hot already. Why is that? Why would you suggest heating up the steel after it has been welded? Kind of like a tempering cycle?

Thanks again for the info guys.
 
Post heat would mostly be for stress relief. This is more important with alloy steels like 4140, 5160, 52100. When I first started welding roller bearings onto rebar handles, they'd fall off pretty quick. Since I learned to really put a nice clean bevel on the end of the rebar and preheat the bearing well, they last until I have to cut them off at the end. The bearings have enough mass that they air cool pretty slow after welding, so I don't post heat them. So, it helps more with thinner stuff (and never quench your welds to cool them) but is good general practice for alloy or high carbon steel.

Steel that's hot already welds better for sure. Often at the very beginning of a pass the bead will not penetrate well. I'll often start a pass 1/2" in or so, then travel back to the beginning and weld over the start of the bead. The metal being cold just sucks the heat out of the weld zone too fast. As the weld progresses, it preheats more and by the end of the bead will be welding like butter. MIG machines can be even more prone to cold starts, nicer machines have a hot start feature that surges the voltage a bit when the arc strikes.
 
If the alloy is hardenable Somewhere in the weld or heat affected zone you'll get martensite .This will be brittle and crack ! [been there done that in my very early days !] So post heat tempers that martensite and will stress relieve also.
 
Watch out on the AC recommendation in post #3 above.
7018 runs best DC electrode positive so if you have DC polarity use it. Smoother with better penetration.
Been around 7018 electrode used by the skid load, polarity DC electrode+ (DCEP). Passed many a qualification test as an Ironworker & Pipefitter, no one would ever run AC in the trades. Seen amateur welders try to run it in straight polarity, turns into a quick weed out process when it happens.
Also, use electrodes from a freshly opened can or reliable dry source source. No better way to get hydrogen embitterment that using contaminated filler material. I keep my rod in the an oven with just enough out to get the job done, leftovers right back in the oven.
Pre-heat is a good tip from above.
 
Only mentioned AC as that is more likely for a home shop to have. I agree that DC is certainly better.
 
Not trying to be critical just wanted to share info on 7018.
Hope it all goes good for your project.
 
Totally. Shared info is good, I wish I had a DC welder right now. And an electrode oven...

Yeah, good luck Railrider. Post pics when you finish.
 
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