well crap. now i need a new controller.

S

SkaerE

Joined
Sep 9, 2001
Messages
428
big ugly crapped out on my (thats my grinder by the way)

nice big fireball and POP! signalled the end of my controller's short life.

i need a new one now. any recommendations? the motor is a 2HP SciPlus special (same as Rlinger and itrade i believe)

hell, guess i needed a better controller anyhow.

since im not real up on electronics, can some of you lend a hand? what aspects do i need to get in a controller? brands?

i need one pretty fast too.

thanks
 
Would you like for me to keep a check on Ebay for you?? If you don't use Ebay we can correspond and if there is one you want I can bid for you.

EDIT: John, don't make me blush. My Linda says I already strut too much :cool:.

SkaerE: Talk to me by email. I need to know all you can say about your controller (DC Motor Drive).

Roger - rlinger1@netzero.net
 
yes, i would LOVE that.

i am running this off of a standard outlet (110/120vac)

in case that matters.

thanks! although i may just shell out the $$ for a new one cause i want it NOW. ;)

not exactly sure what i need to get though. maybe the same one as itrade got?
 
SkaerE,

I have the KBMM-225D from kb electronics. That one didn't have a case so I had to wire it up inside a box. I run mine just fine off 120 VAC. Yes the HP rating is 1.5 for 120VAC. However, the amp rating is 16 which is greater than the motor.

They also sell the KBMD-240D which I believe is the same thing with a case and ready to go.

I'd suggest buying from a distributor. It needs a resistor to match the motor size. They included it in the box for me.

check out http://kbelectronics.com/

There is a distributor list on the site. You're probably only a phone call away from a tidy solution.

Hope that helps,

Steve
 
ok itrade, where did you get yours? i remember you paid $155-ish for the controller complete w/heat sync and all.

mind giving me the #? i called a couple near here (and they arent close anyhow, would still have to ship it) and they want $155 for just the controller. (w/out shipping, and they dont have it in stock)

anyhow, any help you could give me would be great.
 
I'm pretty sure these are the guys:

Electric Motor Service
Fremont California
(510) 651-2706

Yup I think $155 is what I paid. Included controller board, resistor, fuses, controller POT (forgot to get the swell dial plate). Had to put it together. Not as hard as I made it. 2 wires in, 2 wires out, 3 wires to the POT. Fuses are on the board so no big deal there. It has a couple of other wires for special controls/monitors/stuff. I didn't hook up any of those.

You'll need to buy your own on/off switch.

Good luck.
 
When I saw the title for this thread I wanted to run away screaming... I bought a controller off eBay, asked a few questions here before hooking it up, put the power to it and BLAM! the breaker went pow.

But like John said, Roger Linger saved my skinny ... anyway, he generously offered to take a look at it, spotted the problem, found the part he needed, and fixed it. Just like magic. Naturally Roger played it down, just "dusted himself off"...

Some people! :D Truth is, Roger Linger is a hero and I'm about to order the 9" disc from Rob Frink and eventually I'll have a variable speed reversible disc sander - finally! So then, thanks to Roger, I'll start dovetailing my bolsters...next step in my painfully slow evolution as a knifemaker.

Thanks Roger, you're a great guy. SkaerE, good luck!

Dave
 
i called Electric Motor Service today, looks about the same $$ you paid. i had to give the fella the specs to my motor (ie, 120 V 14 Amp 2 HP) so he could get the right resistor. said he'd get back to me tomarrow with which one it is, and the total price.

im excited cause i want to get this all up and running again. its lame not having my machines working :)

thanks all.
 
Ya know this all sounds too familiar.. My Baldor controller did the same thing sparks, smoke, blowing the fuse etc.. It stopped running and I thought it was TOAST!! But I decided to blow it out real good with air, and HOLY CRAP it started running again.. Used it for a long time since with no problems.. Now its doing this crap of going to full speed, out of the blue when running at 50%.
I flip the switch off and it works again..
I think its about to give up the Ghost..
I am going to need a controller too... Glad this post came up..
 
SkaerE,

Was it the controller (drive) that failed the smoke test or was it the motor that poofed?? I may well be mistaken but I read your original post as it being the controller.

EDIT: I searched about the Ebay last evening and did not see anything I thought appropriate for you at a price worth spending. I will be looking again shortly and will let you know if I see anything that I like for the bucks.

Roger
 
i believe the motor to be fine. the controller definitly popped and sputtered a lot before going quiet though ;)

yeah, i am HOPING the motor is ok, but im fairly sure the controller has crapped out.

thanks Roger.
 
TRACE,

Based on a VERY limited experience with DC motor drives and a very rusty but rather long past in electronics I write the below.

If your drive (the controller) is a regenerative drive, the drive may be okay.

Regenerative drives try to regulate RPM in two ways that I am aware of. One way is to provide a tachometer feedback to the drive so that it can measure the RPM and adjust as necessary. Another , and the way we tend to use them, is that the drive monitors current draw of the motor. Under heavier loads the motor requires greater power. A 'short' in the motor can fake the drive out into thinking it is under very heavy load. It will up voltage output until the current levels off. If it does not level off it will continue until voltage output maximizes. A short does not have to be large enough in mass as to cause smoke and noticable sparks. It can be small enough to not attract your immediate attention but enough to cause the attention of the controlling motor drive.

I am wondering how long it will take before my 'open' DC motor begins to spark and smoke. Just as yours has mine will too. I can keep replacing cheap DC motors or bite the bullet and buy one that complies with the requirements. At any rate, I was able to get started and later I can keep the same motor drive and use it with a closed motor later on. At the same time, continuously shorting out motors are not at all good for the motor drive.

I think your motor needs cleaned out. Could well be wrong about that though.

Roger
 
FYI SkaerE,

I've the same motor as RLinger, and you. I also feel that at $50 a pop I can go thru a bunch of motors, before equaling the cost of one official motor.

On the other hand, I have really enjoyed this setup. I mounted a fan from an alternator on the other end of the drive shaft. It pulls A LOT of air thru it. Looking on the inside there still isn't a build up - OK none yet. I peek in there once in a while, but haven't seen the need to blow it out with a compressor yet. Also, I have a vac under the platen and that keeps the dust down.

FWIW,

Steve
 
ok itrade, ordered the KBMM-225D today...it better work! ;)

sales rep told me it wasnt rated high enough for my motor (the 120 V 2 HP) but they installed the highest resistor and fuzes to accomodate me after i told them you had the exact motor and controller and it worked fine. they said it had to do with the load being put on the motor or something.

i dont really understand them thar electronical stuffs ;)

so, it should be here w/in the week for $155. i am pleased to get this stuff up and runnin again
 
While you're waiting for the mail you'll need to get the following:

Red and Black 12 gauge wire
A bunch of those crimp-on spade lugs to connect up to the controller
A DPST switch for the power (a household light switch would work)
Some kinda box to house the whole mess.

and if you want reversing

A DPDT switch for switching the output leads. (DON'T SWITCH WHEN THE POWER IS ON!).

Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top