Well, I decided I didn't really care for it after all

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Sep 16, 2002
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The convex edge, that is... I tried to like it, but it just didn't cut nearly as smoothly as my Benchmade Kulgera with S30V blade. I had reprofiled the Kulgera to 30 degrees with 40 degree polished micro, and it just cuts like crazy. My Insingo edge, not so much. I would strop it on leather with 0.25 micron Diamond spray to give it a little bite, and I never could get the edge just right. It would have a smooth, sticky edge on my fingernail, but it would only shave hair in one direction. My Kulgera (as well as reprofiled 710 D2) would slice paper with just the faintest hiss. The Sebenza, no matter how much I stropped the edge, would just slice it, and after about 3 passes, it would start to catch. So, I basically had had enough and decided to just reprofile it with a standard V-grind at my normal angles above. I did find out while reprofiling it that while the bevels looked even, the edge did not meet right in the middle. That is probably what was causing it to shave only in one direction. Also, one bevel was more convexed than the other, and took a lot more work to actually hit the edge with. I believe I have this fixed now. I gotta say, it finally cuts the way I want it to cut. It can push cut circles in a sheet of paper, and pop hair in both directions. It will also whittle hair pretty good too. I'm finally happy with the edge now. Now I just gotta wait and see how long it lasts during use. I do find myself hitting the leather at least once a day, so I shouldn't have any problem keeping on top of it. I have no desire to just cut until it's dull, because that's not how I normally treat my knives. I already know it's a bit softer than I'd like, but again, I think routine passes on the leather strop should keep it nice and keen.

So... am I the only one who's decided the convex edge wasn't for them and reprofiled their Sebbie?
 
No. I resharpened mine a few times on a Sharpmaker which put a v-grind on it, and went back to my DMT and re-convexed it.

Different uses, different edge.
 
How did you reconvex it on a hard flat surface like a DMT? I know how to do it with a mousepad and sandpaper, or soft leather, but don't know how to get a convex edge on a DMT. And after realizing one bevel was rounder than the other, and the edge not meeting in the middle, I have to assume that had it been properly convexed to begin with, it may have cut the way I wanted it to. I noticed that if I cut into the leather strop in one direction, the edge would bite at a lower angle, while going in the other direction, the edge would bite at a much higher angle. Again, probably the reason I was shaving in one direction, but not the other. Oh well, it's the way I keep my other knives now, so I'm happy.
 
If the knife only shaves in one direction I believe this means there is a burr or wire edge that is slightly knocked to one side or the other. It could be a different story with you knife but usually that is the cause.

I have done edgepro, bench stones and belt sander on my sebenzas. I ended up sticking with convex. It holds up the best (for me) and I have the skills and equipment to do it properly.

I have been thinking about switching from a leather belt with compounds to a hard buffing wheel with dry compounds to finish my edges. Just to try something different out. I would still be finishing a convex edge formed using grinding belts though.

Glad you got her sharp and to your liking:thumbup:
 
I hold a knife with the blade up and the fine/coarse Diafold against the edge and working my way along the blade, buff the edge gently, with a slight rotation of my wrist at each stroke. I usually do this with both grits, and do the same with both grits of the Spyderco DoubleStuff.
 
If the knife only shaves in one direction I believe this means there is a burr or wire edge that is slightly knocked to one side or the other.


Yeah, I checked for a burr with my fingernail, flashlight as well as a textured leather strop that shows areas of the edge that have a burr. Besides, if it were pushed to one side, a quick strop of that side would push it to the other, and the knife would 'change directions' in how it shaves. Not the case with mine. I think the way one edge bevel was off put my edge off, meaning the knife would shave at like 15 degrees on one side, but 25 degrees on the other. At any rate, it's fixed now. ;)
 
I hold a knife with the blade up and the fine/coarse Diafold against the edge and working my way along the blade, buff the edge gently, with a slight rotation of my wrist at each stroke. I usually do this with both grits, and do the same with both grits of the Spyderco DoubleStuff.


Cook, thanks EB.:thumbup:
 
I would say don't give up on the idea of using a convex edge because your first attempt at putting one on was unsuccessful. I prefer using and touching up a convex blade edge. I know re-profiling can be difficult especially with super steels.
 
I would say don't give up on the idea of using a convex edge because your first attempt at putting one on was unsuccessful. I prefer using and touching up a convex blade edge. I know re-profiling can be difficult especially with super steels.

Never mentioned anything about me attempting to put it on. Sebenzas come with a convex edge from the factory. Mine has not cut the way I wanted since I got it new. I just decided to reprofile it to a standard V-grind, and now it cuts great.
 
Nice post, I just got my Sebenza (used) and it is decently sharp but didnt shave but I wanted to try out the characteristics of a convex edge so i didnt go at it with my Smiths system just yet. I went out and got some 2000 grit sandpaper and put it on the back of a notepad. Turned out pretty well for my first time stropping and first convex edge. I can pretty much make "S" cuts in paper now, but its harder for me to change direction to the right. I think I will be ordering either the "standard" green compound everyone talks about or a 1 micron so I can attempt a mirror polish.

edit: went over the sandpaper again and can make scuts (slicing though, not push)

Do I ever have to clean the sand paper and do I have to switch to a new one before I see physical signs of wear?
 
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I have never cleaned my sand paper. I just replace the sheet when it looks dirty or worn.
 
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