well i should have cocobolo ......

Joined
Dec 6, 2004
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covered for a little while
went to frederick MD to fill my LN today and stoped in at a hardwood shop
well there it was calling me :D
1.5x8x75 inchs long a large ish board the sap wood is spalted some
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that is nice lookin' piece. I can't help that everywhere I look I see knife handles. How do you dry out that sap wood?
Also, what's LN?
 
the sap wood parts will be sent off to k and g or wssi for work if i have some that is still usable

LN nitergen is for cryo
so far as i cut into the first few scales it is not as red as the outside seems but is nicely grained i was hoping for some more like i have got there last tiem but hey thems the brakes when hand picking off a stack of boards got to tak what you think might look nice inside

i ll work on gettign some pictures up of it as im goigtno have many scale sets im sure
 
Lotta sapwood there. Looks good too! What's the density of the sapwood bits like?

-d
 
that is nice lookin' piece. I can't help that everywhere I look I see knife handles. How do you dry out that sap wood?
Also, what's LN?

My wife cooked the other night and it was dry and hard enough to make a knife handle out of. Soooooooo, everywhere I look I see knife handles too. Actually, I'm just kidding, because she's a dang good cook, but it made for a nice post!!!
 
Scott,
Oh yeah well MY wife cooked the other night and it was soooo hard I broke two cobalt bits just trying to drill it for handles! :eek: Sorry to hijack Butcher, just couldn't help myself...:D
Matt
 
sap wood is still harder then most other wood sent off im goingto have to play with it a little more to see just what i have but here is a pic
thats tung oil on the wood to show color
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Butcher,
There is a tip @ knives.com that recommends bleaching woods like cocobolo that oxidize easily. Have you ever tried it?
Matt Doyle
 
Butcher,
Here is a part of the clip:

FINISHING WOOD GRIPS

Most beginners figure that a coat of good ole' linseed oil will make a decent finish for the wooden handled knife. Maybe, if it's never going to go out in the field, and you don't mind it gradually darkening until most of the woods' character and color has oxidized to a plain brown. If you don't think that wood oxidizes and changes color, just split a block of cocobolo that has been sitting around the shop for a year or two. Linseed oil oxidizes as part of the curing process, and does the same to the wood. A simple oil finish is also rather easily damaged by moisture, read sweat, on the working knife.

If you want to keep the relative brightness of a wood, and avoid a lot of the oxidation effect, the wood should be bleached with commercial wood bleach,(Jasco A-B type). This will lighten the colors so that when you darken them with a finish, you get back to about where you started. Some woods, like wenge, may be bleached into startling contrast, delivering a color that is more interesting than the original.

And here is the link:http://www.knives.com/engnath_handles.html

You have to scroll down and read quite a bit to find it but there are some really good tips there. Please let me know how it turns out for you. I found the bleach at a specialty store similar to Sherwin Williams. WEAR GLOVES
Matt
 
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