Well I'm finally going to do it

Gossman Knives

Gossman Knives

Edged Toolmaker
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 9, 2004
Messages
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Went to the hardware store and picked up a mapp gas kit. I also got the other componets necessary for heat treating. I decided for now I'll do it all with a torch instead of springing for a forge. I'll invest in one later. I've heat treated before at a buddy's shop but didn't have the stuff at home to do it myself. I'm going to his shop this week for a quick refresher course. Now I can do my own 5160 blades and I think I'll play with some O1. I got my fingers crossed that I can do it on my own. :D
Scott
 
You can, you will and you should succeed HTing yourself :D . My personal view on this subject is every knife maker has to be able to heat treat at least the simple steels like O1 or 5160 himself. That way you can feel and see how things work. It is not a prerequisite but it makes huge difference IMHO.

Happy HT

Emre
 
Thank you for the vote of confidence Emre. I'll still have to send out my D2 and A2 blades but at least the oil hardening ones I can do myself. :)
Scott
 
Scott,remember that if it is not hard enough,you can always re-do it.It is a rush when the red hot steel hits the oil.Temper as soon as possible after hardening.
PS: remember to have a fire extinguisher handy.And don't panic when the oil catches fire when you quench the blade.It will go out fairly soon.(You should have a cover for the quench tank close by, just in case,though).
 
Thanks Stacy, what do you look for when you check the hardness with a file? Is it suppose to skate across the blade?
Scott
 
Hey Scott,

I check the hardness with a sharp file. You take a sample piece of steel and harden and remove scale, then check with a file, it has to scate.

I always temper the steel before brass-rod test. You grind a temporary edge then check the edge hardness and toughness by pressing the knife on the rod, If it bends you need to re-harden because it is too soft either your austenizing temp is not right or the quench may went wrong. If it chips you need to temper the knife more or rise the temper temp. The edge should not be damaged after the brass rod test (you know, brass is softer than hardened steel and your knife shuold be able to cut it).

Best luck with your HT
Emre
 
Also, even with MAPP, you'll probably be restricted to pretty small knives. Using 1/8"
1084 I've never been able to do a good job with any blade over 4" and even that's pushing it. And I use a MAPP torch and one propane torch with a flared tip, but it's still tough. Although, since I clay heat treat everything now, I think the clay absorbs tons of the heat, so maybe with an uncoated blade you'll be able to create enough heat to do okay with bigger blades. Good luck! :D
 
you got this Scott!! HEll...NExt you'll be looking for an O/A set up. Dont get the small bottles....You'll be sorry :mad:
 
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