Well, that didn't last long

M

Muaddib1116

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Dec 26, 2010
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I recently had some trees in my yard cut down, and I had the guys save a bunch of rounds from the trunk for me to split into firewood. I tried out my new maul today, which I had just hung. I guess I didn't do as good a job as I thought. I split a round of mulberry with no problem, but then I tried to split a round of maple. The maple was taking every hit from the maul and laughing about it. So I started really swinging, and the bit got stuck and when I tried to pull it out, the handle started breaking. I was able to break it off entirely and the maul was still stuck in the maple, hadn't moved a smidge.

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The only thing I can think of is that I messed up. I think that I thinned the haft a bit too much, and since the sledge eye is sort of an hour-glass and the wedge would only expand the top half, it was too loose down near the shoulder, even though I pounded it down as much as I could. I guess, I'll try again.
 
What I do see is 'near perfect' horizontal grain on that haft. That she broke clean off right at the eye suggests to me tugging (severe up/down movement such as prying) on a thoroughly stuck blade is not what you want to do.
What does impress me is that you had the modesty to report and illustrate this break. You didn't do anything wrong (as in suggesting overly thinned haft, slight looseness type excuses) but what you did do is youthfully 'reef too hard' on a stuck tool, and you chose a lesser ideal grain orientation for wood to do it to.
 
300Six said:
What I do see is 'near perfect' horizontal grain on that haft. That she broke clean off right at the eye suggests to me tugging (severe up/down movement such as prying) on a thoroughly stuck blade is not what you want to do.
What does impress me is that you had the modesty to report and illustrate this break. You didn't do anything wrong (as in suggesting overly thinned haft, slight looseness type excuses) but what you did do is youthfully 'reef too hard' on a stuck tool, and you chose a lesser ideal grain orientation for wood to do it to.
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The grain looked pretty good to me, I'm not sure that was the problem.

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As far as "reefing" on the handle because the bit was stuck, I definitely did that, it was still hard in there after I tore the handle off. What is the best way to loosen a stuck blade? Knock the poll back and forth with a piece of wood?

Twindog said:
It also looks as if the kerf extended to the bottom of the head.
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This might also be part of the problem. I had to extend the kerf because of how far down I seated the maul head, and I maybe extended it too far. What is the best depth of the kerf for a sledge/maul? for an axe? Thanks!
 
I think that steel wedge was too wide also. Basically split your handle into quarters.
 
said it in the other thread, but IMO the steel wedge should have gone more inline with the wooden wedge.
The metal wedge the way it is severed the grain, as opposed to going in between the grain and in turn pushing the wood outwards (and not cracking it or severing it).

picture if the steel wedge was placed directly next to the wooden one, in the same direction. it would not have destroyed the integrity of the wood in that area it would only have pushed the two sides outwards.

the top of your handle was effectivly broken into/divided into 4 parts by the steel wedge.

edit; just like above poster said, the metal wedge split the handle into quarters. if steel wedge had been inline with the other wedge it would not have been possible to split the actual hickory/handle. it would only have applied outwards pressure to the hickory tightening the fit.
 
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I like to use a wedge until I split the round in half, then use the sharp end of the maul to finish off the round
Also I like axe eye mauls better than sledge eye mauls
 
Muaddib1116 said:
What is the best way to loosen a stuck blade? Knock the poll back and forth with a piece of wood?
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Yep. That's it. Now you know. Same for a stuck axe, knock the poll back and forth with a hunk of wood. I keep a couple of heavy hardwood mallets around for this work. Just carve one out of the next round of hardwood you get.
 
Regarding getting the broken off maul head unstuck-

Right or wrong I'd treat it like a wedge and drive it through, or use a wedge or two to open up the crack.

BTW, don't forget to keep that handle, it will be great stock for two smaller hammers.
 
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All good points, thanks for the advice guys. I think when I rehang it, I'll probably not use the metal wedge.
 
Muaddib1116 said:
...What is the best way to loosen a stuck blade? Knock the poll back and forth with a piece of wood?
Click to expand...

Best way is to drive a wedge along side the stuck maul to open up the crack a little and free it. Hitting it with another piece of wood sometimes works, but the wedge always does and is faster. Big rounds, work from the edge in. Don't sink your maul dead center, that's asking for trouble. Especially in green/wet wood.
 
Apologies for mis-reading the grain. In that regard the hang was great but levering of the handle on a stuck blade was bad luck. Nice thing about a stuck maul is you can whack it with a sledge or some such to drive it right on through, or to work it loose, rather than having to pull too hard on the handle.
 
Oh, please.

You think an air dried haft can't be broken by prying on a stuck axe or maul? You wanna stand by that?
 
Square_peg said:
Oh, please.

You think an air dried haft can't be broken by prying on a stuck axe or maul? You wanna stand by that?
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I said air dried hickory won't do that. Meaning break clean like the OP's handle. Air died hickory will broom, not snap. And yes, I WILL sand by that.

BTW, how much AD hickory have you worked and used? You don't have the experience to comment on what I say about hickory!;)
 
I don't have much experience with hickory or axe/maul handles, but the wood seemed pretty solid to me. It was an Ames True Temper handle that I got at home depot. The remaining handle (approx. 32") weight about 1.2-1.25 lbs. I plan to order the replacement from house handles or beaver tooth handles.
 
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