Were should a framelock lock?

[ginshun]

As in how far over on the blade should the lockbar sit when it is locked?

The reason that I ask is that pretty much all the framelocks that I have besides one lock up pretty close the the 50% point, give or take a little.

The one that doesn't is an Emerson HD7, which locks up at probably the 90% point. The lockup is solid, and I don't worry about it being unsafe. It kind of bugs me a little that when it is locked up the lockbar and the blade are almost lined up though. The knife is a couple of years old, and has always locked up about where it is now. It has moved a little maybe, but not much after the initial couple of hundred openings.

What do you guys think? Would you just leave it alone or do you think it should be fixed?

 

[STR]

My CQC12 Emerson went from an early lock up to clear across nearly leaving the blade in four days. My HD7 wasn't quite that bad but did something similar. I have seen the same 12 for a number of years now that has a lock that left the blade going clear across the contact to the opposite G10 side and its been that way since I first saw it back in 2005. No vertical play and the owner says don't fix what ain't broken so I leave it alone each time its here. I don't think its anything to worry about until the lock exhibits some slop allowing vertical movement. Chances are they'd just peen the contact to squish a bit more material out to contact the blade earlier anyway and then instead of a lock traveling in that far you'd have an early lock that sticks and binds terribly to the contact instead. Six of one half dozen of another I'd take what you have. Just my opinion though.

STR

 

[puukkoman]

I'm kind-of a "don't fix it unless it's broken" guy, so I'd leave it as-is, unless it actually presents a problem.

 

[silkworm]

I've always wondered the same question. Lock up always seems to be an issue if you try to sell a frame lock. And what happens if the lock goes clear across to the other side and makes contact with the non-lock scale? Can it be fixed short of getting a new lock scale? or is that where the frame lock ends its useful life? As long as the lock is solid why does this issue come up?

 

[imafritz]

I've learned after much therapy to not worry about it I think that they should lock up center and I believe that would be the consensus opinion. Hold on while I take one of my pills....None of mine lock in the same place(granted I only have 5) 1 early, 1 late 1 rt center, 1 lf center and 1 center. The early and late arent outside of the tang and dont pose any failing issues and lock tight as a drum so I have learned to live with it........................................................Ahhhhh! I cant take it-they should all lock center:barf:

 

[MORIMOTOM]

I've always wondered the same question. Lock up always seems to be an issue if you try to sell a frame lock. And what happens if the lock goes clear across to the other side and makes contact with the non-lock scale? Can it be fixed short of getting a new lock scale? or is that where the frame lock ends its useful life? As long as the lock is solid why does this issue come up?

for that type of repair, the lock must be replaced. you cant add metal to either the lock or blade tang afaik.

where the lock is in relation to the blade is not important, necessarily. the goal is to have a lock that is not defeated by normal use. but if it is not within your comfort zone, you may consider modification or repair.

some will require a break in period, the majority should be reliable out of the box or from the maker.

 

[Phillip Dobson]

for that type of repair, the lock must be replaced. you cant add metal to either the lock or blade tang afaik.

where the lock is in relation to the blade is not important, necessarily. the goal is to have a lock that is not defeated by normal use. but if it is not within your comfort zone, you may consider modification or repair.

some will require a break in period, the majority should be reliable out of the box or from the maker.

It doesn't have to be replaced (though perhaps it should be). As STR said, one can peen the lock bar to squish metal outwards, extending the lockbar. It doesn't seem like a great solution, though.

 

[MORIMOTOM]

It doesn't have to be replaced (though perhaps it should be). As STR said, one can peen the lock bar to squish metal outwards, extending the lockbar. It doesn't seem like a great solution, though.

missed that portion of his post.

how would that be done to evenly disperse the ti along the surface of the lock?

 

[Kaizen1]

All of the Emerson frame locks that I've seen engage further on the opposite side than other types of frame locks. But it's my understanding that Emerson will fix your knife, assuming you haven't modded it if the lock bar travels all the way over causing play.

 

[STR]

missed that portion of his post.

how would that be done to evenly disperse the ti along the surface of the lock?

Its not evenly dispersed across the lock. Thats not how they contact. Only the very bottom of the lock touches the blade to lock it up and to varying degrees. Some do better than others obviously and disperse the 'footprint' a little bit better than others but even then its still dispersed over the bottom third and not in the middle of top of the lock by where the detent ball is on most locks. The middle portion and top should not actually be touching the blade and thats how your folder is set up guaranteed. Like this here pic at this link.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=135734&d=1245285404

STR