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Western Bowie Bagwell Modification
- Thread starter rhinos
- Start date
Gossman Knives
Edged Toolmaker
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- Apr 9, 2004
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- 9,402
Hey rhinos, do you have a pic of a Western Bagwell mod.? I'd like to see what he does to the blade. I've modified the guards and handles on Western Bowies but not the blade. I would be curious to this question also.
Scott
Scott
Razorback,
No pics I'm sorry. I gather there are changes to the guard, handle, and blade but not sure what exactly Bill Bagwell recommended. I've not got his book or his old SOF articles.
What did you do? Any pics yourself? I have an original vintage western bowie so I can compare.
Cheers
No pics I'm sorry. I gather there are changes to the guard, handle, and blade but not sure what exactly Bill Bagwell recommended. I've not got his book or his old SOF articles.
What did you do? Any pics yourself? I have an original vintage western bowie so I can compare.
Cheers
Gossman Knives
Edged Toolmaker
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2004
- Messages
- 9,402
This is the one I did. It's old school carbon steel. From what I've heard, Bagwell modifies the blade also. He does the guard and handles, but I don't how he modifies them.
Scott
Scott
Cougar Allen
Buccaneer (ret.)
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- Oct 9, 1998
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- 75,799
Welcome to Bladeforums!
Gossman Knives
Edged Toolmaker
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2004
- Messages
- 9,402
Something interesting about these bowies. I have two. One has a wood handle and this one in the pic is actually micarta. I know that it is by that distinct smell micarta has while grinding. I did one for a friend that was wood. Both are Boulder Colorado made bowies.
Scott
Scott
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2000
- Messages
- 1,730
This was copied from Bill Bagwells book “Bowies, Big Knives, and the best of Battle Blades”.
I edited it down to just the technical stuff. There was a lot of extra fluff that made it two pages long and what can I say I’m a lazy typist LOL.
The Guard,
Cut the ends of the guard off at the point where top and bottom bend to make the “S” curve. Finish the ends off by filing, sanding, polishing.
The Blade,
Starting about 3/8 of an inch forward of the guard, the blade should be narrowed in progressive taper until it’s 1 7/8 inches wide at the point where the clip starts across the widest part of the cutting edge. You can use a file or a grinder but be careful not to overheat the blade.
The Point,
The point is carried to high and needs to be dropped. Using a File or bench grinder lower the point ½ inch. Do not overheat the blade if you use a grinder. The unaltered blade measured ~9.5 inches from the front of the guard to the point. The modified version should be ~9 inches long.
The clip,
The original W49 clip point is not sharp so using a file rough the profile and finish with you favorite sharpener.
The Handle,
Use a file to thin and round the sides and ridges of the handle until they feel comfortable to you. Spend some time here there is plenty of material to work with. Do not remove the handle hook.
He suggests performing the modifications in the above order.
I modified (Bagwellized) my carbon steel W49 following his directions and using only a file. It’s not difficult just takes a few hours. By the time, I got the handle scales thin enough to fit my fathers hands I had filed the head off the rivets. I picked up replacements and the counter boring drill here.
http://www.texasknife.com/TKS_Mainframe.htm
Good luck!
I edited it down to just the technical stuff. There was a lot of extra fluff that made it two pages long and what can I say I’m a lazy typist LOL.
The Guard,
Cut the ends of the guard off at the point where top and bottom bend to make the “S” curve. Finish the ends off by filing, sanding, polishing.
The Blade,
Starting about 3/8 of an inch forward of the guard, the blade should be narrowed in progressive taper until it’s 1 7/8 inches wide at the point where the clip starts across the widest part of the cutting edge. You can use a file or a grinder but be careful not to overheat the blade.
The Point,
The point is carried to high and needs to be dropped. Using a File or bench grinder lower the point ½ inch. Do not overheat the blade if you use a grinder. The unaltered blade measured ~9.5 inches from the front of the guard to the point. The modified version should be ~9 inches long.
The clip,
The original W49 clip point is not sharp so using a file rough the profile and finish with you favorite sharpener.
The Handle,
Use a file to thin and round the sides and ridges of the handle until they feel comfortable to you. Spend some time here there is plenty of material to work with. Do not remove the handle hook.
He suggests performing the modifications in the above order.
I modified (Bagwellized) my carbon steel W49 following his directions and using only a file. It’s not difficult just takes a few hours. By the time, I got the handle scales thin enough to fit my fathers hands I had filed the head off the rivets. I picked up replacements and the counter boring drill here.
http://www.texasknife.com/TKS_Mainframe.htm
Good luck!
Cliff Stamp
BANNED
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- Oct 5, 1998
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- 17,562
How is the balance effected by the blade grinding?
-Cliff
-Cliff
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2000
- Messages
- 1,730
No the whole knife was modified following the steps I posted earlier. The handles have an incredible amount of material. To get the handles where I wanted them I ended up sanding off the rivets. I removed the scales and finished. I measured the old rivets and bought new rivets along with the step drill at Texas Knifemakers supply (link below). The rivets are two piece, one side is hollow and the other is solid. You might have to trim to length. The side that is hollow (only this side) needs to be drilled one size larger. When the solid is pressed into the hollow side the hollow side expands if it is a tight fit it will split the handle scales. The solid side can be a tight fit. I did the modification with a hack saw and a file.
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php
Sorry, I didn't realize that you has posted the instructions above. Can you explain the parts below in more detail please? When you say narrow the blade, do you mean from spine to blade? Also, when you say lower the point, what does this mean, and how do you go about it please?
------------------------
The Blade,
Starting about 3/8 of an inch forward of the guard, the blade should be narrowed in progressive taper until it’s 1 7/8 inches wide at the point where the clip starts across the widest part of the cutting edge. You can use a file or a grinder but be careful not to overheat the blade.
The Point,
The point is carried to high and needs to be dropped. Using a File or bench grinder lower the point ½ inch. Do not overheat the blade if you use a grinder. The unaltered blade measured ~9.5 inches from the front of the guard to the point. The modified version should be ~9 inches long.
------------------------
The Blade,
Starting about 3/8 of an inch forward of the guard, the blade should be narrowed in progressive taper until it’s 1 7/8 inches wide at the point where the clip starts across the widest part of the cutting edge. You can use a file or a grinder but be careful not to overheat the blade.
The Point,
The point is carried to high and needs to be dropped. Using a File or bench grinder lower the point ½ inch. Do not overheat the blade if you use a grinder. The unaltered blade measured ~9.5 inches from the front of the guard to the point. The modified version should be ~9 inches long.
