Western Field 60-1553 & sheath; as found

wlwhittier

wlwhittier

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(Five more pics will be in the next post to complete this display)

This fell into my waiting clutches about two hours ago. I cannot find much (so far) about the brand, but it looks like a WESTERN to me.

4-3/4" blade, 9-1/8" overall; saber ground, with fuller(?) extending to the upper edge of the grind.

Appears to have been loved; there's no evidence of grinding or other abuse (save recent dis-use), and it is sharp.

It has staining on the blade, but there are no pits; the leather stack has some evidence of shrinkage between the washers only, and I'm hopeful that one of you will advise me how best to restore them to tight without dis-assembly.

There is an odd gap beneath the ricasso at the guard, a rectangular void. What's with that? Is it original, or is something missing/broken there?

As always; I'm grateful for your comments and counsel. wlw
 
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Western Field was the store brand from Montgomery Wards.
So who made the knife? Remington, perhaps? Kinfolk? PAL? Hopefully one of the more knowledgeable members will chime in soon.
 
That pattern was first used in WWII and furnished by Western of Boulder, Colorado. The bifurcated tang was patent #1967479. It was applied for in 1931 and granted in 1934. The pattern was called G-46 and the blades were furnished in 5, 6, and 8 inch lengths, first to the military then to the civilian market after the war. Yours was built in the 1950s for the civilian market and has brass guard and aluminum pommel. The war knives had steel (double) guards and different pommels, including some made from bakelite. The nominal 5 inch blade version has often been called the baby shark. The gap at the guard is commonly seen. These knives are not rare, but are certainly very functional knives with good steel. I don't think it is easy to refurbish the stacked leather handles without unpinning the pommel and replacing washers. If it was mine I might just use it the way it is. There is a gentleman who sells replacement kits to do this work and also does it himself, Knifeholdersteve at phone number 541 601 2471 in Oregon somewhere.
 
wlwhittier said:
It has staining on the blade, but there are no pits; the leather stack has some evidence of shrinkage between the washers only, and I'm hopeful that one of you will advise me how best to restore them to tight without dis-assembly.
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I had a similar knife with dried and shrunken leather handles, only in much worse condition. I soaked it in neetsfoot oil. The leather absorbed the oil and swelled back to size. 30 years later the leather handles are still in good condition, perfectly tight, with no evidence of ill effects from the oil.
 
Bob W said:
I had a similar knife with dried and shrunken leather handles, only in much worse condition. I soaked it in neetsfoot oil. The leather absorbed the oil and swelled back to size. 30 years later the leather handles are still in good condition, perfectly tight, with no evidence of ill effects from the oil.
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That is just the counsel I was looking for, and I thank you! After a scrub-up and dry-out, into the oil it'll go.

Has anyone used Tung-oil for this purpose?

I ask because I understand it hardens, and on copper/brass/steel flat surfaces becomes a barrier to corrosion & oxidation. Just a thought...

And: knifeholdersteve (his eBay username) is in Springfield, Oregon, about 7 hours' drive south of me. His work is very good, and I have perhaps 20 fixed-blade knives he has worked for me. Some were complete junk, and now are very presentable, fully useable. Steve is a creative, innovative repairman.
 
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Tongueriver:

I'm grateful for your comprehensive history on the Western/Montgomery Ward.

It's a keeper & user for me, and will clean-up well with a little effort.

wlw
 
tongueriver said:
That pattern was first used in WWII and furnished by Western of Boulder, Colorado. The bifurcated tang was patent #1967479. It was applied for in 1931 and granted in 1934. The pattern was called G-46 and the blades were furnished in 5, 6, and 8 inch lengths, first to the military then to the civilian market after the war. . . . The war knives had steel (double) guards and different pommels, including some made from bakelite.
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Not exactly.

The blade pattern used on the G-46 was in production by the mid 1920s, using a traditional stick tang. It was available in 4", 5", and 6" lengths, with brass crossguard, leather handle, and symmetrical aluminum "mushroom" pommel. Prior to 1928, it was produced for Western States on contract; production was moved in-house in 1928. Sometime after the tang patent was granted--and prior to 1938--the knife was in production in-house using the patented tang, in 4", 5", and 6" lengths. With the change to the patented tang, the pommel shape was shifted to a "bird's-head" shape as shown in Wlwittier's photos. The most popular length (judging by surviving examples) was the 6".

After the US entered WWII, knives of this pattern were purchased by the military in 5" and 6" lengths. The purchase orders typically called for "hunting knives" of a specified length (either 5" or 6"). Perhaps coincidentally, the 4" length seems to have been discontinued at about this time, and never resumed.

The 8" length was apparently designed in 1942 and entered production in 1943. So far as I know, the 8" was never purchased by the military for issue, although it--like the 5" and 6" knives--were available at times through the PX/BX system.

Early in the war, production continued with brass crossguards, leather handles, and aluminum pommels. However, both brass and aluminum were strategic materials with limited availability. As the war went on, substitutes began to be used. At times steel was substituted for the brass crossguard, and some later examples had a round steel washer-like pommel. Wartime production of the 8" knife was limited to steel crossguards/steel washer-type pommels. Some 5" and 6" knives were produced with pommels and/or crossguards, made of a plastic similar to bakelite. (This may have been "Catalin"; there is some extant 1943 correspondence between Western States and the Catalin company.)

Wlwittier's knife may be from the '50s, but the peak of Western's production for Montgomery Wards appears to have been during the mid-60s, possibly suggesting a later date for production. Perhaps someone more familiar with the font used in Montgomery Wards logos would be able to tell.

I've experimented with tung oil for expanding/preserving older leather handles. The end result of a soaking in tung oil has been too make the handle hard, almost brittle. The best results I've seen have been to apply multiple coats of Picards leather dressing, heating each coat with a hair dryer or heat gun until absorbed by the leather.
 
The OP's knife is a post-1953 to mid-1960s equivalent of the L46-5, the designation given the G46-5 after WW2.

Western quit putting the patent number on the ricassos from late 1952 to early 1953, depending on the model (stock on hand at changeover, a particular knife's location in the dealership pipeline, etc)

As stated, the G46-8 was never a true contract sheath knife such as the G46-5, G46-6, W31, L71, L76, L77 or Bx54.

However, in addition to PX/BX orders, Western supplied the G46-8 directly to Navy/Marine/Army units via unit purchase orders, especially on the west coast.

During WW2, unit commanders (Batallion/Regiment/Squadron level) had much greater leeway than now in placing orders for supplying units on the verge of shipping out. Mr. H.N. Platts, CEO/Founder, would frequently take "emergency orders" from west coast units scheduled to deploy. He would then put the knives and either his son and factory manager, Harlow Platts, or some other trust employee on the next train to where ever to personally deliver the order.
 
I second coffecups suggestion of Pecards Leather Dressing. Great stuff and won't leave your leather product all wet, dark and soggy like any oil based product. It is the only thing I will use on any of my old Marbles knives/sheathes. Can find on Ebay.
 
arizonaranchman said:
Nice old classic you have there. Interested to see it when you get finished cleaning it up.
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Thanks! I'll post pics here this winter when the job's finished; and I take as serious guidance the Picard's recommendation...no Tung oil will be used.

Thank you, all, for the thoughtful, informative comments and suggestions. wlw
 
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