wett vs GB Axe blade contour and their uses

J

JLKII

Joined
Jun 4, 2009
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Somewhere I cannot now find I read that Gränsfors Bruks and Wetterlings grind their axe blades with different shapes and that this would influence the choice of which to use.

IIRC, the GB shape is a hollow grind and has a thinner cross-sectioned shape, whereas the Wetterlings is convex and thicker. This would imply that the thinner GB is for softer wood, while the Wetterlings for harder woods and more general purpose use or all-around use.

Have never seen either, I don't know, so I ask the forum to comment one this.

It might influence my choice of brands when I buy one. I live in the Rocky Mountain region, where the trees are most softwood but I need a tool that can be used for felling, splitting, trimming and all-round use.

I have searched this forum but have not found anything on this subject, so I am posting it as a topic.

What are other members thoughts on the issue of blade shape and its influence on usage?
 
I have yet to find any limitations of my gb sfa and the wetterlings I have handled have not impressed me as far as quality, as far as shape the gb is thiner but they both share the same hollow ground shape to the head but both have a convex grind. So really it comes down to your price range and what quality you want
 
A lot of people have a misconception that an axe head should be very thick. Splitting axes should be, yes, but depending on what you're using the axe for, ample thickness may be a bad thing.

Thick axe heads for splitting, thin heads for felling. Some people are surprised by how thin a felling axe is. They can be easily wedged in wood when trying to split with them, but that's what happens when you use a tool for a job that it's not designed for.

I can't say much about wetterlings, but I know that my Gransfors does a great job and it's head size is great for all around stuff.

JGON
 
Calebklyne said:
I have yet to find any limitations of my gb sfa and the wetterlings I have handled have not impressed me as far as quality, as far as shape the gb is thiner but they both share the same hollow ground shape to the head but both have a convex grind. So really it comes down to your price range and what quality you want
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I've owned 2 Wetterlings and also visit a local shop that sells Gransfors where I've gotten to handle a few of them. Don't buy into the Gransfors hype, a Wetterlings is basically a Gransfors without the blacksmith's personal stamp, a less finished handle, and less the 20 year warranty. They are forged on the same exact kind of semi-automated hand forge and both come sharp.

I don't have a Gransfors to compare splitting to, but the consensus out there is that the Wetterlings has a slight edge in splitting. I'm sure either one would split small dry logs and kindling just fine.

If you have the extra dough grab a Gransfors. If you're on a post-2008 budget like most of us then grab a Wetterlings and don't look back.

I currently have the Wetterlings 20" Large Hunting axe, also known as the Wetterlings "Bushcraft Axe". It's one of the newer ones made by the now Gransfors owned Wetterlings and has the same single retention pin as the Gransfors. It's a well balanced axe with enough oomph to split dry logs up to 5" without too much trouble, plus it chops really well for it's size.

As much as I like it though, I do think a Wetterlings Wildlife hatchet will do most of the work of the Large Hunting axe and is lighter and easier to pack. Pair this with a larger 26" Wetterlings Scandi Forest axe and it will do much more for your money.
 
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I picked up a Wetterlings WH the other day. Walked into Wholesale Sports and there it was, all lonely, sitting on the rack by itself. The second I handled it, I had to have it. I teach survival and bushcraft professionally and Ikneq this hatchet would make an excellent bushcraft tool.

I took it home, and examined more closely. Fit and finish was very good. I think it had probably been floating around their back room for a while as the helve had a couple of small dents. The alignment was very good but not perfect. The grain was good, basically diagonal and quite toght. Not too important on a tool this size.

After fifteen minutes using my stones and strop, followed by five minutes with some metal polish, I decided to shave my arm. SHARPEST tool I own. As sharp as my Mora. Easily shaved my arm with no effort. Slices paper hair-thin.

Took it out in the bush. Took down a couple of small alder trees, erected my tarp and then took down a dead maple. Made feathersticks with it to rival my Kabar MKI (modified grind, convex).

Split kindling, lit fire. Stropped hatchet on my canvas haversack. No noticeable wear on blade, even through knotty heartwood of 10" Big leaf Maple.

I have a feeling that this is the beginning of a beautiful relationship!!

Can't imagine a GB performing better but appreciate the fit and finish would probably be excellent as opposed to just very good with this hatchet.

My Fiskars X7 is now in my bag in my truck. Fantastic tool, unbreakable, unbeatable, and incredible value....just......soulless!

This thing does not want me to let go of it! Highly recommended.
 
I prefer something like this for cross grain chopping in softwoods:

Picture078.jpg


Just don't want the "thin=chopping thick=splitting" paradigm to go without a little questioning, even though this is an old thread. Whether an axe is set up for splitting or deep cross grain penetration has more to due with the first 3-5MM of edge in relation to the profile, than the entire top down view.
 
G-pig said:
Whatcha got the forgetsies? I posted a picture of it with 5 others not even a month ago!
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Nah, I was just messing around. I figured the zombie thread was a good place to dump some worthless tomfoolery.

So is that double bit the one you were going to send to me???
 
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