- Joined
- Dec 12, 2009
- Messages
- 168
Hey All,
So, more working knives. This one, also to be sold, is a 3" wharncliffe blade of 80CrV2 with curly oak scales.
One of my secrets has been to stain curly oak with aqua fortis (don't tell). The tannins in the oak cause parts of it to turn purple/black. The rest of the wood takes on a gold appearance. Maybe a little browner in places, but a lot of gold. Each board or block is different. I got this off of ebay for some crazy cheap price.
This one has a grain filling tung oil finish.
The sheath stitches are put down into a groove, but you can't see the groove. That is because the sheath is double stitched, so there are no blank spots. However, I am new to sheaths. I am used to making scabbards for swords, and I just started doing my own leatherwork, and only on the simple ones.
I hope you like. I have enough of this piece of oak to make about four or five more.
So, more working knives. This one, also to be sold, is a 3" wharncliffe blade of 80CrV2 with curly oak scales.
One of my secrets has been to stain curly oak with aqua fortis (don't tell). The tannins in the oak cause parts of it to turn purple/black. The rest of the wood takes on a gold appearance. Maybe a little browner in places, but a lot of gold. Each board or block is different. I got this off of ebay for some crazy cheap price.
This one has a grain filling tung oil finish.
The sheath stitches are put down into a groove, but you can't see the groove. That is because the sheath is double stitched, so there are no blank spots. However, I am new to sheaths. I am used to making scabbards for swords, and I just started doing my own leatherwork, and only on the simple ones.
I hope you like. I have enough of this piece of oak to make about four or five more.