What’s a Good, Inexpensive Belt Sander??

N

Nalapombu

Joined
Oct 26, 2001
Messages
303
Hey all.

Another quick question if you don’t mind.

I am looking to pick up a belt sander/stock removal setup. Of course I’d love to have one of those beauties that you guys that do this for a living or for a serious hobby have, but that’s WAY out of my budget. I’d like to pick up a belt sander that is good enough to let me try this and see if I enjoy it enough to put more time and money into it. It might end up that making a knife is just not for me. I want to try and see though.

I’ve been looking on Craigslist and OfferUp and such and found several possible choices. I like the Craftsman that has the tilting belt sander along with the disc sander too.

Can you all give me some suggestions on what would be a decent machine to look for that won’t cost very much but will still work pretty well? I’ll need it to have one of those adjustable shelf fixture too.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
thank you all again.
 
I have a crappy 1x30 wen. That I mounted on its side, so I can grind slack, easier
I've made a few knives.
Some I'm very happy with.

I'm currently looking at a coote 2x72


I will still keep this, once I get a Real belt grinder as I see it has its benefits and uses.
 

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I filed the bevels on the first 5 knives I made and then got a WEN 1x30 for 6-12 (so far). It is a major step up from hand filing in terms of speed and finish quality. I am sure it is garbage next to a 2x72, but I am pretty sure my skill is more limiting than the equipment. Given a choice between making knives on a 1x30 and not making any, I am glad I am doing the former. It would be nice to be able to slow the belt sander down. I am not sure if those adjustable speed Grizzlies are worth it. They allow some degree of speed adjustment, but are also more expensive. Here is blade number 12. A product of the 1x30: IMG_0812.jpeg
IMG_0817.jpeg
 
I started on a Delta 1x42. Nothing like a good 2x72, but it beat hours of filing. Just know that you can get great results, but it will take hand work after grinding.
 
The truth is that most any belt grinder will work. The 2X72 is just the most versatile for a knife maker. Here is what you want to look for and what works best:

2" belt width - this allows grinding without gouges. 1" is trickier to grind with. 4" and 6" will work, but you have to finesse some grinds. A 2X36 or 2X48 is a very good starting grinder. Some of these are specifically made for knifemakers. Kalamazoo, Grizzly, and many others are what a lot of us started on.

Speed - most cheap grinders are single speed. As long as that is in the acceptable range for grinding knives, single speed is OK. Variable speed is a big advantage of the 2X72.

Power - This is the biggest issue with low cost grinders .. small motors. You really want at least 3/4HP to grind knives. 1/2HP can do it Ok with lighter pressure. Many low end grinders are 1/3HP. Using one of these to grind knives can load down the motor making it overheat and burn up.

Adjustability - Tracking and belt tension is a big problem with low cost grinders. On some there is virtually no adjustment. The ability to adjust the platen or modify it is also harder on low end units.

Ways to deal with this on a budget:
Look around in the For-Sale places - Craig's List, Local Trading sites and papers, ask friends and old woodworkers. You may find an old Craftsman 2X36 or 4X48 for free or at a low price. These usually have a motor and a drive belt, which means you can change the motor to one that fits your needs. A three-groove pully will allow changing speed. You can change or modify the platen and run a 2" wide belt if you want. Even a 6X48 can work with a little modification.

Make friends in the knife making community. many of us may have an old unit we outgrew or that needs fixing. These may be cheap or free. When making a shop visit, taking a six-pack of their favorite beer doesn't hurt.

Save up - Put a can/box/jar in the bedroom and every night put all the $1 bills in your wallet in it. This will build up faster than you think. Do an extra job to earn some cash. People will pay you for some yardwork, clearing debris, splitting firewood, etc. In the same way,


SPEND LESS - We all spend a lot of money we don't really need. Drink water instead of beer, Make a pot of coffee instead of going to Starbucks. Skip a concert, luxury, or neat trail bike you wanted.

Buy Smart - Buying a grinder that won't really do the job just because it fits your current available funds is a poor choice. It is far better to save up and get a better grinder. In the same way, jumping on a low price/low power grinder because it is available is not as wise as looking around for a while longer to find a good grinder for your needs.

Plan to UPGRADE - Starting with a 2X42 or similar size and then adding a variable speed drive and bigger motor later on is a good way to improve your equipment as you improve your skills. The upgraded motor can be put on a better grinder someday, or used on a disc grinder later on. For this reason, look for starting grinder that you can change the motor out for a 56C frame motor, or look for one with a belt drive.
 
My first belt grinder is a 2*36 jig, similar to some of the ones made DIY on Youtube, it uses an angle grinder as the motor. I bought a 1.5HP angle grinder and get very good grinding power with it. I can grind D2 with ease, very happy with that. The jig and the angle grinder cost me around $150.

I was indecisive whether to get AO or Ceramic belt, so I both some of both. The AO belts lasted for 1 knife, the Ceramic belts lasted for 4 knives, while being only 2 times the cost. So if you want to save money, buy the more expensive belts.
 
I'd sure look to pick up one of the Craftsman 2x42's. Wide range of belts and a world of mods that have been done to them. Mine still touches every knife I make. Not on the blades but some handle shaping and tang grinding.
 
I would also look at one of the many 1x42" belt, 6" disc grinders available. While certainly not a beast, I found that it would reach areas the KMGs won't, due to that skinny little platen. My point is that I found it had a useful place in my shop. It can be a starting grinder that keeps getting used after the acquisition of a 2x72", and thus isn't something that will sit and rot. That, and that extra abrasive over a 1x30 makes a difference.

I gave mine away a year before all the stuff happened that has put me back in the shop again. Found myself eyeballing a unit at Grizzly a couple days ago. They're useful.

...my 2cents, likely worth even less.
 
Grizzly 2x72 worked well for me. It is super fast with the direct drive 8" wheel, so it's better at lower grits and you have to go very light at the finer grits and hand sand. Worked really well for hogging out profiles and rough grinding bevels. The shaft on the left can be wrapped with old belts/emery cloth to use as a small wheel as well. The 8" wheel doesn't give much clearance on the left to hollow grind, but I mostly do flat or convex grinds.

I started with a 1x30, went to the Grizzly, then to a KMG variable speed and now have a AmeriBrade Fastback. The AmeriBrade w/o motor can be had for under $1000 with combo platen and small wheel holder, which is most of the equipment that you need. $100 VFD from amazon and a 2HP 3 phase motor is around $250, so it's not too bad to get it going.
 
Stacy nailed it. From my limited experience and funds I learned a lot using cheap tools, how to max them out, what they limits are and why you don't want to use them. Still cheap tools are better then no tools and make you feel better about your good tools once you get them. Nobody started with a shop and 10 or 100k in equipment and even if they did, it wouldnt make them a better knife maker in the beginning.
 
The first "grinder" I got was a little Belsaw 1x42, older style, with a V-belt drive. Found it on Craigslist for $30. I was able to make lots of neat little blades with it, and even some machete-sized ones.

It never lost its usefulness, and it was still around years later when I was using a Northridge 2x72 with VFD drive as a main.

By the end, that little 1x42 was being used with nice ceramic belts, had a beefed-up platen, and was driven by a new 1/2 hp Baldor motor. 😜 Loved that thing.

If you can find one of those older-style 1x30s or 1x42s, with a belt-and-pulley drive where you can change out motors, then it would be well worth getting and using, imo.
 
Maybe check out harbor freight for a budget option to begin the learning curve.
 
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