What about Parkerizing?

V

VaughnT

Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
434
I stopped spending money in the bars only to find out that this knife-making thing isn't exactly cheap! Unfortunately, I'm having too much fun with the whole thing to give it up, so I'd better learn to enjoy spending money.

Curiously, I don't see a lot of mention of parkerizing blades. I'm learning on leaf springs and some 1084 I had laying around, and would like to be able to coat it with something to protect against the elements. It doesn't need to be bullet-proof, and it certainly wouldn't negate the need for oiling the blades.

Looking at parkerizingkits.com, they seem to have a good selection of stuff, but what do you really need? How hard is the grey v. black finish? Is one better, for whatever reason, than the other?

I see that they have a kit that includes all of the chemicals AND and tub to do the mojo in. That's kinda neat.

Do you have to maintain the temp of the water for the duration of the soak, or just get it up to temp to get the chemicals in solution?

Can you put a finished knife in the solution if it has a micarta handle? Or, would you have to do the blade, guard and pommel before assembly? If so, how do you do a peened tang to secure final product?

Is there a better source for the components? Cheaper? Standards to look for?
 
Gray phosphate has zinc content; black is magneseum. Generally, you park before installing scales/handle material. Nearly anything will do for a tank including plastic. Temp is the key... and of course a good solution, you kick it off with some steel wool. I've done phosphate on rifle and pistols for years; never knives. But it is easy. The steel must be clean, clean, clean.
 
So other than the color, there's no difference between the two solutions?

Can you clean the steel with acetone, or is a special technique/cleaner required?
 
I have made a couple of attempts to Parkerize, with mixed results. what I have found so far:

The steel does need to be absolutely clean. Most solvents will leave a residue that interferes with the process. I have not found a perfect cleaning method/product yet.

The solution has a temp. window in which it works well, outside of this window your results will be spotty at best. Good temp. control is important.

Too strong a solution and too much heat/too long a soak will eat holes/pits in a blade:eek:

Aluminum should not be used for any part of your parkerizing setup, I have not found any hard info but some say the Park. solution will attack it pretty quickly.

The black phosphate is supposed to be more durable than the grey but I have not confirmed this.

The solution does seem to work better if it is "aged" by tossing a bit of CLEAN steel wool in before you use it for the first time.

The fumes are bad enough that you want to use a respirator (P100 OCV cartridges) and/or work outside or in a well-ventilated area.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top