What am I doing wrong sharpening?

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fireincairo

Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
212
I'm a beginner, and I'm using a Fallkniven DC4 with my BK11. The diamond side seems to get the blade pretty sharp, but as soon as I go to the ceramic it dulls the blade.

Should I take a really light touch with the ceramic side? I know my technique probably sucks since I'm knew to sharpening, but perhaps there is a trick or some tips to using the ceramic side of a stone?
 
Use a marker on the edge to see your progress and train you hand /eye. It will serve you better than all the jigs made and you will be able to sharpen with any small diamond or whatever in the field . I also find that some steels dont like the ceramic also ,mostly stainless super steels , but some take a ceramic or steeling well like 1095 and a2 . I ussually finish or touch up with a green dmt {fine} .
 
fireincairo said:
I'm a beginner, and I'm using a Fallkniven DC4 with my BK11. The diamond side seems to get the blade pretty sharp, but as soon as I go to the ceramic it dulls the blade.

Should I take a really light touch with the ceramic side? I know my technique probably sucks since I'm knew to sharpening, but perhaps there is a trick or some tips to using the ceramic side of a stone?
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the fallkniven ceramics can be a bit difficult to sharpen with, and you should use light strokes
 
The tool is not designed to "sharpen" as much as it is to touch-up. The diamond surface if for removing minor damage and the ceramic side is for bringing a slightly dulled or rolled edge back to life. Its a tool made for field maintenance and its method of use will be slightly different from progressive sharpening with a system or stones sitting at home.

To get better results from your fallkniven sharpener use the diamond side to maintain the main bevel and the ceramic at a slightly raised angle with very light pressure to refine the edge apex. Though it could probably be used to polish the whole bevel it will work much better to use it only for microbevels.

The ceramic dulling the edge is a typical learning curve whenever moving to a finer abrasive. It takes a softer touch and more controlled movements, your making the edge smaller with each step so its easier to mess up. Also, because of how hard a ceramic is excessive pressure can roll and deform a edge making it feel very dull and blunted.

Your DC4 will work but remember its designed to maintain a knife that's in use, the abrasives are selected to quickly fix the edge and bring it back to a working condition not sharpen like a set of stones.
 
I recently started my own learning on how to sharpen. There are many types of sharpeners however what finaly worked for me is a diamond rod or plate. The key for either is consistant angle. Once a burr has formed, leather strop with black strop paste then plain leather strop. i can at this point get any knife hair popn sharp. again not a expert, just happy to get a edge
 
I'd suggest using a Sharpmaker. Very intuitive to use, not too expensive, and it will get your knife hair splitting sharp.
 
I have a new DC4 that I've been using a little bit, lately. It's sort of odd-feeling, on the ceramic side, compared to the Spyderco ceramic hones I've used. Feels a lot rougher. However, I was actually amazed at how well it works. As with any ceramics, which are very, very hard, LIGHT pressure makes all the difference. Focus on maintaining consistent angle, and regulate your pressure just enough to keep the edge in contact with the hone. Almost as if you were using the knife edge to just skim a layer of dust from the surface of the hone. No heavier than that.
 
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