What angle do you folks sharpen your Sebenzas to?

A

AMRaider

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Sep 5, 2007
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Right now I have a 20 degree bevel on my S30V (RC58-59) small classic Sebenza. The toughest stuff I cut is usually plastic zip-ties followed by cardboard.

Q1: Do you guys think the edge would be too weak if I took it down to 15 degrees per size? I'm mainly worried about rolling the edge, especially with thicker plastic zip-ties.

Q2: What bevel angle and blade material do you guys have your Sebbies set up with?
 
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40 degrees won't cut well at all.I don't go above 30 for my knives.
 
Not sure. I free hand sharpen mine and thinned out the factory angle just a bit. Whatever that angle is, it works well for me.
 
34* Is perfect for me on all my knives (I free hand sharpen with mine and realized I sharpen at that angle after some measurement)
 
I also free hand sharpen on a Japanese water stone. Not sure what the angle is but it would be no more than 15 degrees each side (possibly less).

I also thinned the blade a tiny bit to help it slice better.

Now is just gets touched up from time to time and mostly stropped on leather or sometimes I strop it on the fine stone
 
All my knives are at 30 degrees inc. or less. 40 is a bit thick for my tastes.

If you want something to go through those zip ties like a laser, get it Krein'ed at about 8-10 per side. :thumbup: Just don't twist it while you're cutting.
 
I spent years and years and years carrying a couple of sebs sharpened to 30 inc (sharpmaker)... I have not noticed much difference between them and 40 which is what I do now... I reckon IF I sharpened as much as I did then, I would not be happy with a 40deg edge with ZERO backbevel, but I have not had any probs with a 40 deg initial edge, and a factory backbevel... which is probably around 30degs... of course, I mainly use Spydercos now... I'll be pickin' up another Mnandi now since I've been using some smaller blades, and I was just not hip to its size back in the day. I will check the edge to decide then... I might just end up toughing up on the 30deg side of the Sharpmaker to avoid heavy sharpening to achieve the backbevel... who knows... sometimes I just get lazy and the 40 deg side certainly makes faster work of touch ups...
 
I free hand on DMT benchstones keeping as close to the factory bevel as possible, but always err towards thinning the edge, rather than widening it. I've sharpened my Sebenza perhaps 4 times over the past 1 1/2 years and the bevel looks pretty much exactly the same as new, just a little more polished than the one from the factory.
 
I also lowered the angle of my sebbie, and at first I didn't liked the big bevel.

So I advice you to take it slow!

Marthijn

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Would 30 degrees on a sharpmaker be roughly the same angle as the 30 degree setting on a lansky?
 
^ jz 4020

No it is not the same. 30* angle will give you an edge at 60* as the 25 gives you an edge of 50* If you want a 30* angle as on a spyderco sharpmaker you need to sharpen at a 15* hole of the lansky. (the sharpmaker says 30 but each rod is at an angle of 15* to give you an edge of 30*)
 
I use the 25 hole on the Lansky and strop afterwards. A bit finer than what came from the factory.
 
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