What angle do you sharpen your knives

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Gradyw

Joined
Jan 23, 2017
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Just curious what you guys sharpen your knives too? Pocket knives, choppers, or your camp knives whatever you got I normally stick to whatever the manufacturer puts on the knife if it cuts well(fixed blades). Except on my pocket knives I probably normally drop them to 10-15 degress
 
typically reprofile once the facotry edge is gone to 30 degrees inclusive and a 40 microbevel, so i can use my sharpmaker quickly and easily to keep touched up. i do this on about every type of knife and steel i own. simplicity is what i want.
 
Depends on the knife and steel and for the intended purpose. I have a zdp endura that's around 24 degrees and micro'ed at 30. Most of my EDC knives are at around 26-28 degrees and micro'd at 30. Kitchen knives are 20 degrees and get freehand touchups. Except for the cleaver that does bone cutting duties sometimes, so it's at around 40 degrees.
 
Kitchen knives and non-wprk knives are at 12 degrees per side (dps) with a 15 dps microbevel and my work knife is at 17 dps with a 20 dps microbevel. I have choppers at about 15 dps with a 17 dps microbevel.
 
36-degree inclusive for my casual EDC Sebenza. I use this for most knives...nothing fancy.
 
FullMetalJackass said:
I tend to follow the original angle then work around it.
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I do the same my friend, sadly though most factory edges I receive vary in degrees so I'll try to find a happy medium and use my 120 stone to make the rest of the knife match what the factory gave to me.

90% of the time though the factory edge is anywhere from 17-20 dps. Of course I've seen 15 at the tip or heel occasionally but, very rarely in my experience.

Another thing is to take in consideration what type of steel you're sharpening, some steels perform better with a certain geometry.
 
I just keep the factory edge touched up as needed, I don't have anything other than a few basic stones to keep my edges on knives maintained so I wouldn't really consider myself in a position to reprofile anything.
 
Factory makes sure the knife is safe from stupidity. You can always thin it out and make it slicier, just don't open cans with 15dps if it's already thin behind the edge.
 
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Hickory n steel said:
I just keep the factory edge touched up as needed, I don't have anything other than a few basic stones to keep my edges on knives maintained so I wouldn't really consider myself in a position to reprofile anything.
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CKTG 120 diamond is all you need man!
 
Depends on the particular tool but I don't use anything greater than a 30° included angle on any of my knives, axes, machetes, etc. and usually more like 20-25°, maybe with a micro if the the steel needs it.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Depends on the particular tool but I don't use anything greater than a 30° included angle on any of my knives, axes, machetes, etc. and usually more like 20-25°, maybe with a micro if the the steel needs it.
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Why do I feel like a micro Edge is cheating?
 
Somewhere between 15 and 20 degrees per side, depending on the type of knife, the blade geometry and steel type, and its intended use.
 
Mine are all over the place. 25 to 40, depending on the blade and the steel.
 
12 dps, 15 micro. 15 dps, no micro. 20 dps, 15 micro. Chisel is always 15 single edge angle, no micro.
 
I keep it simple. 20DPS for my EDC folder and smaller fixed blades, and some choppers with a good steel and HT can handle 20dps. All of my larger fixed blades are 25DPS, even my 20+inch bladed slimline machetes, when I resharpen them, but they usually have convex since I do a lot of freehand sharpening when I am out and about with my machetes. When they take heavy damage, I will regrind at 25 and they slowly convex with freehand sharpening.
Quite a few of my blades have full convex grinds, so those are all different.
 
ATJ999 said:
I keep it simple. 20DPS for my EDC folder and smaller fixed blades, and some choppers with a good steel and HT can handle 20dps. All of my larger fixed blades are 25DPS, even my 20+inch bladed slimline machetes, when I resharpen them, but they usually have convex since I do a lot of freehand sharpening when I am out and about with my machetes. When they take heavy damage, I will regrind at 25 and they slowly convex with freehand sharpening.
Quite a few of my blades have full convex grinds, so those are all different.
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Ditto here. The Lansky clamping set recommends 20dps for most general purpose knives, so that's what I use. It is surprisingly very appropriate for knives with softer steel such as 420HC and 440A, since too fine an angle and these steels will essentially roll over with minimal cutting.

I have yet to try 20dps on knives with 3Cr13 steel, but I'll expect it to be equally appropriate as well.
 
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