What angle do you sharpen your Spyderco.

H

Hobs98

Joined
Dec 17, 2012
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61
Basically what the title says. I want a good sharp working edge, but still be able to shave. Right now I'm doing 40 degrees inclusive. What is the factory edge of Spydercos sharpened to? This will be used on a couple of manixs, a military and a PM2.
 
I try and match the factory edge, along with a microbevel set to 40 degrees (Sharpmaker). I don't really like to reprofile a blade unless it needs to have it done.
 
I reprofiled my para 2 to 34 degrees inclusive with a 40 degree microbevel and it is wicked sharp. Tree tops hair and the S30V will hold it for a while.
 
Hobs98 said:
I should mention that I'm currently using a Ken Onion Work sharp.
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Super easy way eh? Almost cheating ;)

All joking aside, if you turn the angle down, I don't know if you can put it in between the 15 and 20 degree marks, if so try around the middle of them. A microbevel will add a bit more strength and life to your edges.
 
S30V, S35VN, VG10 - 30 inclusive, 40 microbevel
S110V - 26 inclusive, 40 microbevel
 
Matt93 said:
Super easy way eh? Almost cheating ;)

All joking aside, if you turn the angle down, I don't know if you can put it in between the 15 and 20 degree marks, if so try around the middle of them. A microbevel will add a bit more strength and life to your edges.
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Yes, it is just like cheating. :D I tried it at 17 degrees and got the edge I was looking for. thanks
 
I use the sharpmarker by spyderco at 40 degrees and can shave with my knives after
 
Why is everyone using a super steel at 40 degrees inclusive? Your robbing yourself of the performance the steel has to offer.

Might as well be using AUS8 or 8cr.

Edge angle is key to a good cutting edge and having good steel with a good heat treatment allows you to reduce that inclusive angle while not having the deformation and rapid dulling found with lower alloy steels.

Spyderco grinds the blades thin and runs the steel hard, compliment these features and give it a thin cutting edge.
 
For general use, I use the Sharpmaker and sharpen the back bevel is at 30 degrees and the primary cutting bevel edge is at 40 degrees. This gives good overall cutting of many materials and is per the Sharpmaker instructions.

If you put a triangular wooden shim (get bag of different sized shims from Home Depot for a couple of bucks) under one end of your Sharpmaker you can reduce these angles to 15-20 for back bevel and 20-30 for the primary bevel. You will have to fool around with the shim and use a protractor to measure what angles you are getting from your rods. You can only sharpen one side at a time but if you mark your shim for the angle you want it is easy to switch from one end of the Sharpmaker to the other.

Here is a good YouTube sharpening video (there are four parts) by the Spyderco founder who's first knife related product was a sharpener.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB0r6GvESGg
 
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Jason B. said:
Why is everyone using a super steel at 40 degrees inclusive? Your robbing yourself of the performance the steel has to offer.

Might as well be using AUS8 or 8cr.

Edge angle is key to a good cutting edge and having good steel with a good heat treatment allows you to reduce that inclusive angle while not having the deformation and rapid dulling found with lower alloy steels.

Spyderco grinds the blades thin and runs the steel hard, compliment these features and give it a thin cutting edge.
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I wholeheartedly agree with this statement. I may run my big, basher XM24 at 17dps, due to its size and intended use, but a Manix LW in S110V is really best at about 12dps and let that steel shine. As stated above, having the super steels we have and running them at 17-20dps is like having a Ferrari and driving it in town in traffic. If you run too obtuse of an angle (17-20dps) you'll never get to appreciate the benefits of the steel.
 
Using a Sharpmaker, 30 degree inclusive and 40 degrees micro. Finish with a stropping. I do the same when reprofiling. Touch up with the Sharpmaker or a Double Stuff followed by a stropping as needed. I do this on all brands, all steels. I'm not looking for the Nobel Prize in sharpening, just a good sharp working edge. So far, so good.
 
Jason B. said:
Why is everyone using a super steel at 40 degrees inclusive? Your robbing yourself of the performance the steel has to offer.

Might as well be using AUS8 or 8cr.

Edge angle is key to a good cutting edge and having good steel with a good heat treatment allows you to reduce that inclusive angle while not having the deformation and rapid dulling found with lower alloy steels.

Spyderco grinds the blades thin and runs the steel hard, compliment these features and give it a thin cutting edge.
Click to expand...

I agree. I usually bevel at around 14 dps and touch up with a microbevel at 18 dps until it gets macro, then I refresh. I do find that there's a pretty noticeable difference between a microbevel at 20 dps and 18 dps.
 
Jason B. said:
Why is everyone using a super steel at 40 degrees inclusive? Your robbing yourself of the performance the steel has to offer.

Might as well be using AUS8 or 8cr.

Edge angle is key to a good cutting edge and having good steel with a good heat treatment allows you to reduce that inclusive angle while not having the deformation and rapid dulling found with lower alloy steels.

Spyderco grinds the blades thin and runs the steel hard, compliment these features and give it a thin cutting edge.
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Agree with this 100%. Spyderco M4 for me goes no more obtuse than 15 dps. I even run my S30V PM2 at 15 dps, and if I ever detect any slight rolls, a few minutes of stropping fixes that right up. I plan on trying out ZDP one day and won't run it anymore obtuse than 15 dps.

Let these horses run...
 
sharpmaker for me so i tend to choose the 15 deg most of the time as my spyderco are mainly folders .. some of my other fixed blade will get 20 deg
 
Jason B. said:
Why is everyone using a super steel at 40 degrees inclusive? Your robbing yourself of the performance the steel has to offer.

Might as well be using AUS8 or 8cr.

Edge angle is key to a good cutting edge and having good steel with a good heat treatment allows you to reduce that inclusive angle while not having the deformation and rapid dulling found with lower alloy steels.

Spyderco grinds the blades thin and runs the steel hard, compliment these features and give it a thin cutting edge.
Click to expand...

While I m no expert, this is also my understanding about high grade knife steels. They allow a blade to maintain a thinner edge and thus provide greater cutting efficiency.
 
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