What angle for Gayle Bradley?

Joined
Dec 15, 2007
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154
I have a GATCO system and was wondering what the factory angle is set at, and/or which degree hole I should use on the GATCO to maintain this angle?

TIA!
 
All final edges are hand ground and can vary. Do you know about the Sharpie trick? Cover the edge with Sharpie marker and then adjust the angle until you take the marker off across the whole width of the edge. The M4 should be able to handle a 30 degree inclusive edge if you aren't too abusive. If for some reason you notice some damage like a rolled edge then put a 40 degree micro bevel and it should hold up to most everything. Reprofiling the hard M4 will take a while though and following the factory edge should be quick.
 
The factory angle on my GB was almost spot on at 30 degrees inclusive. As for the Gatco, I don't know if that system can go down to that angle.
 
Looking at my Gatco I can do 15* and 11* per side, so 30* or 22* inclusive. I should be all set with the 15* slot.
 
Factory is close to 15 per side. I take m4 down to 10-12 per side though.
 
I did a quick touch up last night with the 320 grit stone, brought it right back! I ordered the 600 grit and 1200 grit. I used 30* inclusive and it worked well.

What degree will hold an edge longer? 22* or 30* inclusive? I havent sharpened this knife in the near 3 months ive owned it, and it still cuts half inch rope in one pull, or closing the knife on the rope with medium pressure. Im sold on M4!
 
I did a quick touch up last night with the 320 grit stone, brought it right back! I ordered the 600 grit and 1200 grit. I used 30* inclusive and it worked well.

What degree will hold an edge longer? 22* or 30* inclusive?
I havent sharpened this knife in the near 3 months ive owned it, and it still cuts half inch rope in one pull, or closing the knife on the rope with medium pressure. Im sold on M4!

I'm no expert in sharpening or edge geometry, but I think it really depends strongly on the steel and how harsh the materials you're cutting through are. The conventional wisdom, though, is that a wider (higher angle) edge has more metal behind it, so it will be more robust and last longer...however, also the amount of pressure you put on the edge contributes to how long it will take to break down. With a lower angle, you should need less pressure, and so if you're cutting through relatively mild materials, it might last just as long or longer.

However, I'd say 30 deg. is the perfect middle ground and a good balance between cutting performance and edge retention. Though, I think CPM-m4 should be able to handle a 22 deg. inclusive angle, especially with a larger microbevel.

BTW, remember that all those clamp systems (gatco, lansky etc) are very inexact, and the actual angle you get is rarely if ever the actual angle it produces. The real angle depends on how far the edge is from the starting point for the rod
 
Can you describe this a little mor ein depth? having trouble visualizing what youre saying about the further from the clamp the angle changes.......
 
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