-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
What angle for Moras on a Lansky system?
- Thread starter fatcat55
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2012
- Messages
- 1,792
To be honest, it depends on you a little. Though I would recommend either 15 or 20 degrees per side, giving you a 30 degree or a 40 degree inclusive angle respectively. I prefer a 40 degree inclusive edge on my outdoor knives and a 30 degree inclusive on my slicers.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,441
Whichever marked 'setting' on the clamp you might use, keep in mind, the marked setting won't be anywhere close to the actual angle produced by sharpening. The marked settings on Lansky's clamp are accurate only as measured at the immediate front edge of the clamp itself. If the blade edge extends beyond the front edge of the clamp (which it must, to be reachable at all), the actual angle will be lower. The further the edge is from the front of the clamp, the lower the angle will be. As an example, a blade whose edge is ~5/8" out from the clamp's front edge will actually sharpen up to around ~15°, when using the '17' setting on the clamp (I figured this out on my own Lansky, when sharpening the main spear blade on a Victorinox SAK, holding the blade in the 'notch' in the front edge of the clamp).
If you wish to closely match the Mora's factory edge angle, the best thing would be to use a Sharpie or other black ink marker, and darken the edge bevel on the blade. Set up the blade in the clamp, and position it so the guided hone will be flush (or nearly so) to the bevel on the blade. Use whichever angle 'setting' slot on the clamp that will get you the closest to a flush fit, as verified by the hone uniformly removing the ink along the full width of the Mora's edge bevel. If the ink is being removed only up near the shoulder of the bevel, and not near the cutting edge, the honing angle is too shallow (acute). If it's only being removed nearer to the cutting edge itself, but not near the shoulders of the bevel, the honing angle is too steep (wide).
David
If you wish to closely match the Mora's factory edge angle, the best thing would be to use a Sharpie or other black ink marker, and darken the edge bevel on the blade. Set up the blade in the clamp, and position it so the guided hone will be flush (or nearly so) to the bevel on the blade. Use whichever angle 'setting' slot on the clamp that will get you the closest to a flush fit, as verified by the hone uniformly removing the ink along the full width of the Mora's edge bevel. If the ink is being removed only up near the shoulder of the bevel, and not near the cutting edge, the honing angle is too shallow (acute). If it's only being removed nearer to the cutting edge itself, but not near the shoulders of the bevel, the honing angle is too steep (wide).
David
Last edited: