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What angle to reprofile to?
- Thread starter ManRay
- Start date
What use to you envision?
If chopping or hard use....thicker is better.
If slicing or finer tasks, thinner is better.
But this is just my opinion.
I tend to look at it this way: bigger blades get thicker edges. Smaller knives get thinner edges.
Polishing your edge will give you a great increase in performance, imho....and unlike the angle, a polished edge' s only sacrifice is time to obtain it instead of edge strength.
But again, this is just my opinion. I could be doing it wrong and others are likely to disagree with me on some or all points.
If chopping or hard use....thicker is better.
If slicing or finer tasks, thinner is better.
But this is just my opinion.
I tend to look at it this way: bigger blades get thicker edges. Smaller knives get thinner edges.
Polishing your edge will give you a great increase in performance, imho....and unlike the angle, a polished edge' s only sacrifice is time to obtain it instead of edge strength.
But again, this is just my opinion. I could be doing it wrong and others are likely to disagree with me on some or all points.
Here is a good read for ya.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/whats-the-best-angle-for-your-knife.664041/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/whats-the-best-angle-for-your-knife.664041/
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2010
- Messages
- 2,901
I generally reprofile all my knives, even choppers, to 15 dps for an all-purpose edge. It makes a large difference in performance for me. Lower angles than that may be sufficient on smaller blades and even on larger blades depending on the scope of use, especially if a microbevel is also used, but I like to leave some margin for safety (i.e., you're buddy grabs a blade and starts wailing into a huge knot or something, lol).
I'd also note that thickness behind the edge is an important factor to consider, 15 dps at 0.02" isn't going to be nearly as strong as 15 dps at 0.03", etc... The latter is what I shoot for on the large blades that I've both reprofiled and thinned the primary grind on. On folders, smaller fixed blade slicers, and kitchen knives, I have numerous blades at 0.01" bte and thinner.
I'd also note that thickness behind the edge is an important factor to consider, 15 dps at 0.02" isn't going to be nearly as strong as 15 dps at 0.03", etc... The latter is what I shoot for on the large blades that I've both reprofiled and thinned the primary grind on. On folders, smaller fixed blade slicers, and kitchen knives, I have numerous blades at 0.01" bte and thinner.
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2017
- Messages
- 12
I have been having the same questions for some time. I am having issues with longer mid size blades in keeping the edge consistent. I recently attempted to re-profile a 511 to 15 using a wicked edge (50 thru 1500 diamond/Balsa 10 micron polish) I have a hell of a time getting the tip edge to match the belly.
With guided systems, as you move the rod along the blade, your angle changes.
You have to either move the knife back and forth in the vice or accept that as you move the abrasive away (in either direction) from the clamp, your angle will change.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2016
- Messages
- 2,898
15° per side is too thin for my area / woods on a large blade.
I reprofilled an 1111 to 20° per side convex and it was perfect.
I also reprofilled a Mora Garberg to 15° per side to make it extra slicey. I would NOT take it that fine on a chopper.
Another thing to consider is the amount of material you are removing.
YMMV depending on where you live/what woods you process.
I reprofilled an 1111 to 20° per side convex and it was perfect.
I also reprofilled a Mora Garberg to 15° per side to make it extra slicey. I would NOT take it that fine on a chopper.
Another thing to consider is the amount of material you are removing.
YMMV depending on where you live/what woods you process.
