You didn't say what you're using your TSEK for ...
There's no exact right or wrong answer here, at least until you try out the advice and see which works best. But I strongly disagree with the recommendation for 20 degrees per side (40 degrees total) -- it is way too obtuse, and you're giving up way too much performance, unless you're really using the knife hard enough to justify it.
At a bare minimum, I'd suggest you do a full re-profiling at 15-degrees per side, then you can put a light 20 degree edge on top of that. That will get you a lot of the robustness of a 20 degree edge, but way increase cutting performance due to the thinner bevels. In actuality, my real recommendation would be to go to a straight 15-degree edge, maybe with a very light (say, 3 strokes per side) double-grind at 20 degrees on it. If you see problems with that edge (chipping or edge rolling), then slap a full 20 degree edge on top of your 15 degree edge.
So, the summary of the process is: start off with a high performance edge, and only back off to a lower performance edge if you see edge damage (chipping or rolling). The steps are: start at 15 degrees w/ light double-grind, then go to a full 20-degree grind on the 15-degree bevel if you have to. By double-grind, I mean after you're done with your 15-degree edge (raise the burr, move to finer stones, etc.), you take 2 or 3 very light strokes at a higher angle, specifically to finish off the burr.
The performance difference will be drastic enough that you'll be glad you tried it. Bet it'll work out just fine.
The other thing I recommend on knives this long. If you decide to polish your edge (fine stone or strop), go back to a medium-coarse stone and take a few light strokes at that last 1.25" of the blade nearest the handle -- the part where serrations would be if this were a partially-serrated blade. That'll give you enhanced slicing ability at that part of the edge.
Joe