I've got a new-to-me AG Vanguard S30V that was apparently manufactured in 05 by the Idaho stamp. Was Buck using the Edge2x setup then? What angle(s) on my Lansky standard kit would most closely match the factory angles? It's plenty sharp now but I would like to know what to use once it finally needs a touch-up. This is my first Buck fixed blade and wow!, what a knife! Please advise.
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What angle to use on Lansky for new Buck?
- Thread starter dawgvet
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Just strop it on some leather. To get the angle place the blade flat on the leather, push it along the leather (not dragging it like stroping) lifting slightly until it bits. The drag the blade with that andle a few times then you are good to go. And Yes Buck was using the edge 2k in 2005, I think it started around 2000.
Best of luck,
John
Best of luck,
John
The Edge2x grind is in the range of 26° to 32° inclusive.
http://www.buckknives.com/technical_making.php
http://www.buckknives.com/technical_making.php
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This brings up a good question. First let me say that I do not use a Lansky. I use a Gatco sharpener at 19 deg. I think that the angle is measured against an imaginary horizontal plain through the centre of the spine of the blade and would equal 38 deg. in Buckspeak. The way that Buck measures Edge2000 is an included angle but the Lansky is measuring the angle against the horizontal and that angle needs to be doubled to make it correspond to the angle used by Edge2000.
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When I use the Lansky sharpener , I just set up the knife, lay the stone on the edge in the 20 degree slot, look closely with a magnifying glass at how the stone lays on the grind and then adjust accordingly, ether up to 25 or down to 17. You do have to make sure that the blade is strait in the holder or the angles will be off a good bit from side to side.
Sorry this still does not answer your question, just my observations on the Lansky sharpener.
Rick
Sorry this still does not answer your question, just my observations on the Lansky sharpener.
Rick
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Its pretty much safe to say that you can disregard the numbers on the Lansky. The actual anlge you end up with will vary with the width of the blade being sharpened. The blade represents one side of a triangle and if you change the length of a side of a triangle, you change the size in degrees of the angles. I hope that makes sense but if not, here is the quick and easy answer.
Take a felt pen and color your knife edge. Then start using the various slots on the Lansky until you find the one that removes the most ink with a few passes. It is doubtful that you will find a slot that matches perfectly so dont be discouraged. The first time you sharpen your knife will be the hardest because you will be reprofiling it to the angle of the Lansky slot you chose. Then make sure you clamp the knife in the same spot each time and use the same slot and it should be a breeze.
I hope this helps.
Take a felt pen and color your knife edge. Then start using the various slots on the Lansky until you find the one that removes the most ink with a few passes. It is doubtful that you will find a slot that matches perfectly so dont be discouraged. The first time you sharpen your knife will be the hardest because you will be reprofiling it to the angle of the Lansky slot you chose. Then make sure you clamp the knife in the same spot each time and use the same slot and it should be a breeze.
I hope this helps.
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Dawgvet......Take a felt pen and color your knife edge. Then start using the various slots on the Lansky until you find the one that removes the most ink with a few passes. It is doubtful that you will find a slot that matches perfectly so dont be discouraged. ...
Then make sure you clamp the knife in the same spot each time and use the same slot and it should be a breeze.
I hope this helps.
I learned Joe's tip here and it works. I use the felt marker trick every time.
BTW, 13-16 degrees is what the Buck site says regarding Edge2x: http://www.buckknives.com/sharpening.php
With my Lansky I use the 17 for my 110AG S30V but dabble with 20-25 with some of my fixed blades that are 420HC.
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Know this is an old post but this is exactly what I;m dealing with now. Have the Sharpmaker but also have the Workshop Guided Field Sharpener. I plan on using the Sharpmaker primarily at 30 degrees but will it cause problems if I switch between the two (with the Guided set at 25)? With the Buck required inclusive angle between 26 - 32 degrees is there any way I can get these two to cooperate without changing the knife profile?
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My 110 came from the factory super sharp but 17 on one side and 20 on the other - so 37 inclusive. I transitioned it to 17 on each side thus 34 inclusive (that was a chore!). My Buck 55 I use 20, but remember the Lansky numbers are just a menomic, the actual angle varies.
I used to use a variety of angles on my kitchen knives but I am transitioning them all to 20 (one sided) so I can easily touch them up on my Vee-stick sharpener.
I have both the Lansky and Gatco guided systems so between them there are a variety of angles. I have to keep a record of what I use on each knife.
I used to use a variety of angles on my kitchen knives but I am transitioning them all to 20 (one sided) so I can easily touch them up on my Vee-stick sharpener.
I have both the Lansky and Gatco guided systems so between them there are a variety of angles. I have to keep a record of what I use on each knife.
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Thanks Pondoro! Which do you prefer? Lansky or Gatco? I've heard good things about the Lansky. My dream sharpener is a Wicked Edge.
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Little OT, but I have a Lansky system that was put away for a couple years as I never used it. Just used my Sharpmaker on 20 degrees for everything.
But the threads here made me curious to try it, but with the small pocket knife blades as on the 303 or 703, the stone would always contact the clamp, rather than the blade edge. With larger knives it's fine, but no matter how I fiddled with it, wouldn't work on a small blade without hitting the clamp.
So a few days ago, I emailed Lansky support to ask what I was doing wrong. I had a pretty quick reply that the newest version of the clamp has been redesigned so it'll handle small blades without hitting, as they knew it was an issue on older sets.
I was told just to send the clamp in with a note indicating I wanted an exchange under warrantee with the latest clamp and there'd be no charge. I sent it off with the email exchange in the envelope, so we'll see how the newest clamp works out. Thought that was pretty good customer service since as I mentioned my set is two or three years old.
I just thought I'd add this to the thread in case anyone else had encountered this problem.
Thanks!
Joe
But the threads here made me curious to try it, but with the small pocket knife blades as on the 303 or 703, the stone would always contact the clamp, rather than the blade edge. With larger knives it's fine, but no matter how I fiddled with it, wouldn't work on a small blade without hitting the clamp.
So a few days ago, I emailed Lansky support to ask what I was doing wrong. I had a pretty quick reply that the newest version of the clamp has been redesigned so it'll handle small blades without hitting, as they knew it was an issue on older sets.
I was told just to send the clamp in with a note indicating I wanted an exchange under warrantee with the latest clamp and there'd be no charge. I sent it off with the email exchange in the envelope, so we'll see how the newest clamp works out. Thought that was pretty good customer service since as I mentioned my set is two or three years old.
I just thought I'd add this to the thread in case anyone else had encountered this problem.
Thanks!
Joe
To be precise, the "new" 2016 type clamp is actually the original design clamp which they used from the start in 1979
You can see that clamp and read all about it and how it works with smaller blades in this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...hnique-for-EDC-newbie?p=14898206#post14898206
Frans
You can see that clamp and read all about it and how it works with smaller blades in this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...hnique-for-EDC-newbie?p=14898206#post14898206
Frans
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Hilarious - redesigned, yeah right. Went back to what they started with then it seems. Oh well. Hope it works anyway.
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Well, we pull another thread from the past but nothing wrong with search and research, that's a big part of why we are here.
The fastest way to get a long thread is to talk about steel or sharpening. Lots of different opinions. My Lansky has served me well for at least 25 years. My clamp in the oldest one in photo back in the link provided. I do and have taken a little off the tip of my clamp using it on small pocket knives (300s), especially the little one's. You have to be careful and clamp on the very least you can get by with. Being careful I can get a knife very sharp with a mirror edge if I desire. But, I generally only now use it on hunting knives which are usually a 112 or Selector or my one Vanguard. Only to keep the edge decent for touch up sharpening over time. I did get a set of diamond stones for it to deal with the hard steels. As I have stated I have tried a small machine belt sharpener but have been unsatisfied and use it as a open belt buffer with buffing belts. Usually on non-knife stuff. I can sharpen on flat stones but am lazy and get a good enough 20 degree edge on my folding knives using a two crock stick system. I was converted to leather stropping by threads on sharpening and believe in a less refined edge for cardboard cutting, another idea from Buck forum discussions.
Using the Lansky clamp I do use a marker on the edge to watch that I am doing the right stuff.
Everyone has their own way, no one is any better than the next forum member as long as you get a edge you are happy with. I will state that you should learn on cheaper blades and not start trying on an expensive or heirloom knife. Sharpening discussions can bring out a little bit of snobbery on advocates of one method or another. Just like we can get if we start talking steels. Remember the goal is to help folks with less experience find 'A' way they can get a good edge. After we do that we can bring out the six shooters and quote science.
That is my opinion on OP question after the history reboot. Has anyone heard from Will the Barb in recent history ?
300
The fastest way to get a long thread is to talk about steel or sharpening. Lots of different opinions. My Lansky has served me well for at least 25 years. My clamp in the oldest one in photo back in the link provided. I do and have taken a little off the tip of my clamp using it on small pocket knives (300s), especially the little one's. You have to be careful and clamp on the very least you can get by with. Being careful I can get a knife very sharp with a mirror edge if I desire. But, I generally only now use it on hunting knives which are usually a 112 or Selector or my one Vanguard. Only to keep the edge decent for touch up sharpening over time. I did get a set of diamond stones for it to deal with the hard steels. As I have stated I have tried a small machine belt sharpener but have been unsatisfied and use it as a open belt buffer with buffing belts. Usually on non-knife stuff. I can sharpen on flat stones but am lazy and get a good enough 20 degree edge on my folding knives using a two crock stick system. I was converted to leather stropping by threads on sharpening and believe in a less refined edge for cardboard cutting, another idea from Buck forum discussions.
Using the Lansky clamp I do use a marker on the edge to watch that I am doing the right stuff.
Everyone has their own way, no one is any better than the next forum member as long as you get a edge you are happy with. I will state that you should learn on cheaper blades and not start trying on an expensive or heirloom knife. Sharpening discussions can bring out a little bit of snobbery on advocates of one method or another. Just like we can get if we start talking steels. Remember the goal is to help folks with less experience find 'A' way they can get a good edge. After we do that we can bring out the six shooters and quote science.
That is my opinion on OP question after the history reboot. Has anyone heard from Will the Barb in recent history ?
300
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The Gatco stones are wider and the rods are longer so it lets you take metal off a bit faster, if you are doing a large knife or changing a profile. The Gatco storage case is hard brittle plastic and has self destructed, it is (was) also too small and the stuff that came in it would never go back in right.
Other than that they are equal, in my opinion.
Well, I am glad that they listened to the complaints and realized that the original design works very well and was part of what made the system such a success.
I have just about any sharpening system available but I still love my original Lansky and it is the one I use most.
Nice to read how we all have our own solutions. I did not want to alter my clamp so in order to sharpen very small blades with a low enough angle, I cut a needle and tape it to the spine, essentially making the blade just a bit wider and making it possible to clamp it securely and getting repeatable results.
Frans
For me it would be the Lansky.
What I did not like about my Gatco, was that some of the stones had slightly raised edges, it looked a bit as if they shrunk a bit when they were molded, making them a bit hollow so I had to flatten them first. This can of course be just an isolated incident.
More important was that I did not very much liked the clamp. The notch in the jaws for clamping smaller knives was just too big to securely clamp my traditional folders.
The Wicked Edge is a very nice system. I have the Pro Pack II and I love it for my larger knives for which I think it is the best system available. The only thing that I do not like about it is that without the optional low angle adapter, it does not handle smaller, traditional style or Victorinox pocket knives.
Frans