What axes to get for a well rounded grouping?

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Nov 25, 2005
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I am new to the axe world. I have a desire to learn everything about anything, one thing at a time. I want to get into the world of axes. I would like as much information as possible about what axes I would need for felling trees, limbing, splitting and any other chores. I use an Estwing hatchet at my job (scrapyard) for hammering or splitting stuff. I doubt I would use any of these axes at work, as stated I want a nice rounded collection for gathering firewood and the such. I will say though that I would be making a display rack in my house for them when they are not being used. I don't care about the cost, I care about the quality but I'm not getting crazy with the pricd. Any suggestions on what to get and where I can learn the best techniques? I'm 44 btw, not some little kid. My wife might argue that though.
 
IAWoodsman and Ray Mears videos are the best place to start. Ray Mears even has a video on this exact issue, what to look for in a well rounded axe collection. Also WoodTrekker is a fantastic blog written by an experienced bushcrafter who has a thing for axes. Lots of good beginner info on design, construction, use and maintenance. Gransfors has a downloadable book on the history, design and maintenance of axes called The Axe Book, also a required read. I'll start with a few suggestions, some 'classics'.

American Felling Axe 31-35 inches, 3-4.5 pound bit-Classic simple Jersey pattern axe for felling trees. Curved hickory haft for shock absorption, ergonomics and maximum leverage. Lots of classic companies out there, Kelly, Plumb, Mann/Norlund, Gransfors even makes a nice one

Hudson Bay Axe-hatchet size-28 inches, lighter bit-classic northern design featuring a wide bit that trims back significantly to the eye, reducing weight and maximizing effectiveness for packing backcountry. Norlund, Snow/Nealley and Council tool seem to be the best/most classic manufacturers, though these days Snow and Nealley less so.

Double Bit Cruiser axe-28 inches, 2.5-3 pound bit-classic horse packing and canoeing axe, one thin bit for deep biting and one thicker convexed bit for knots, roots, frozen wood, etc. Kelly makes a really nice US built contemporary one, though there are many classic companies. Norlund cruisers are highly sought after.

Swedish Carpenter's axe- 20 inches, 2lb head-specifically designed for carving wood, with a nice thin flat bit. Great for bushcrafting and making furniture, bowls, dugout canoes, all sorts of stuff. Husqvarna, Wetterlings and GB make them.

Tasmanian style Competition Work axe-short haft and heavy head designed specifically for racing, though they tend to be super efficient felling axes. Couple of obscure/specialized companies make them, though you can find an Arvika or Helko factory new for around a hundred dollars.

Scandinavian Forest axe-20-26 inch, 1.5-2.25 lb head-thin profile blade made with Swedish axe steel-incredible allaround packing-sized axes for felling, splitting, carving etc- the one-in-all, do-it-all axe as produced by a number of Scandinavian companies. Husqvarna, Hultafors, Sandvik, GB, Wetterlings, SuperBanko, Arvika (I know I'm overlapping factories here....)

Tomahawk-light do-it-all survival design, good for everything from fighting to throwing to wood processing to bushcrafting. Lighter contour knife-blade style bit that tends to be fast in the hand and very well balanced. 18-24 inch straight haft is common. HB Forge makes a great one, though the Cold Steel Frontier or Pipe Hawk wouldn't be a bad user to start with.

Here are some possibilities I'd consider in a well-grouped axe collection. Still working on some of them myself, though I've ordered many this week :D Current collection consists of:

Jersey-style Swiss surplus hatchet
Norlund Hudson Bay 14 inch hatchet
Sandvik 14 inch scandinavian forest axe style hatchet
Husqvarna 20 inch scandinavian forest axe
Plumb 20 inch carpenter's axe
Wetterlings 26 inch scandinavian forest axe
Wetterlings 31 inch scandinavian forest axe
HB Forge Shawnee hawk
Cold Steel trail, norse and frontier hawks
Cold steel trench hawk....
probably missing some. I have many on order too, will double my collection in the next two weeks. If you stay active in the community, axe lovers are really into their hobby and like to share it with others. I've picked up on and made the most of some amazing deals I found out about on here. I paid 20 dollars for my 20 inch SFA, which would typically retail about 80 bucks, for example. There are other sources that pay to be diligent about. I got my 31 inch Wetterlings axe for 10 dollars at a garage sale, and sunk some money into a new haft for it, but basically they retail for 90+ dollars. Knowing quality brands is important.
 
Steve, thanks for posting the link to that thread. PayetteRucker offered some really good choices.

Most of my axes are used for trailwork so I tend to stick to larger sized single bit heads (True Temper Kelly Perfect jersey, Connecticut patterns with 5" or larger bits) on a 28"-32" handle. I have found the Gransfors Bruks American Felling axe (31" handle) to be a great all around axe for felling, bucking, and limbing.

If I had to pick a few:

  • 3 lb American felling axe: Council Tool or Gransfors Bruks, 30-32" curved handle
  • 3-4 lb Connecticut or Jersey pattern axe: True Temper Flint Edge, Collins Legitimus, True Temper Kelly perfect, 28-32" straight handle
  • Gransfors Bruks or similar splitting axe or maul (i find a maul a very useful tool for splitting large rounds)
  • 2 lb Boys or Camp axe: Council tools boys axe or Gransfors Bruks scandinavian Forest axe, 25-26" handles
  • hatchet: Warren Tool Special Camp Axe, 16" handle
  • axes I'd love to own for the heck of it: Tuatahi work axe, True Temper Kelly Perfect or Flint Edge Cruiser Double Bit.

If you learn to profile, sharpen, and hang your own axes you can save significant money.
 
Steve, thanks for posting the link to that thread. PayetteRucker offered some really good choices.

Most of my axes are used for trailwork so I tend to stick to larger sized single bit heads (True Temper Kelly Perfect jersey, Connecticut patterns with 5" or larger bits) on a 28"-32" handle. I have found the Gransfors Bruks American Felling axe (31" handle) to be a great all around axe for felling, bucking, and limbing.

If I had to pick a few:

  • 3 lb American felling axe: Council Tool or Gransfors Bruks, 30-32" curved handle
  • 3-4 lb Connecticut or Jersey pattern axe: True Temper Flint Edge, Collins Legitimus, True Temper Kelly perfect, 28-32" straight handle
  • Gransfors Bruks or similar splitting axe or maul (i find a maul a very useful tool for splitting large rounds)
  • 2 lb Boys or Camp axe: Council tools boys axe or Gransfors Bruks scandinavian Forest axe, 25-26" handles
  • hatchet: Warren Tool Special Camp Axe, 16" handle
  • axes I'd love to own for the heck of it: Tuatahi work axe, True Temper Kelly Perfect or Flint Edge Cruiser Double Bit.

If you learn to profile, sharpen, and hang your own axes you can save significant money.

I know a guy that has one of these for sale.
 
That book is worth a read:
The Ax Book: The Lore and Science of the Woodcutter by Dudley Cook
 
The Ax Book: The Lore and Science of the Woodcutter by Dudley Cook

Reading it now. Great book. And for the most part the double bit was consider the best axe to have in the woods. One blade for felling the other for limbing. Handy!
 
Well rounded group -

Double Bit - Kelly Perfect 3.5 lb
Single Bit - Kelly Flint Edge 3.5 lb or BMC Black Donald 4 lb Felling axe
Hatchet - So many different kinds, I would try a Plumb carpenters or half hatchet on a 14" handle.

Boys axe - more a novelty to me - not really too useful. I see where they serve their purpose, or niche, and I do have a few (18 I think) but when it comes down to it - I would rather have my regular single bit axe than a boys axe.

And thats all you really need, is 3, if that. Technically you can do whatever you want with a good single bit. Keep a file handy and you will be fine.
 
Wow. Thanks everyone. I hope to get more responses. I'm going to start researching all these axes this week.
 
Hi, Operator1975...

If that Flint Edge Cruiser Double Bit is still available, can you direct tme to the seller?
 
Steve Tall ... Thank you for that discussion link. After reading it, I feel like I've just completed a college course in Axology 101. Much obliged!
 
Excellent advice here from everyone. Having lived on a homestead for a couple of years and used axes, saws and hatchets in place modern equipment (chainsaws and hydraulic splitters) to heat our home in a very cold area, these are what I came to cherish:

A good razor sharp hatchet with a proper profile for splitting tons of kindling and resinwood (I used either a Husqvarna or a Fiskars with a convexed edge). A hatchet is also great for chopping small logs and branches in half (easier than a saw or larger axe if done right).

A good razor sharp and profiled 3/4 Axe (Boy's Axe) for limbing and bucking. I used a Fiskars 28" Chopping Axe with a 2 1/4 pound head and eventually got my stepson a Council Tool Boy's Axe. You will NOT want to buck and limb tons of logs with a 3.5lb Jersey Axe, it will wear you out quickly. Save the Jersey Axe for splitting, felling or bucking really large logs.

A good 3.5lb Pound Dayton or Jersey pattern Axe with either a 31" or a 36" handle depending your height and preference. This can be used for felling larger trees, splitting or bucking really big logs and is very versatile. I used a number of them before settling on a Council Tool 3.5lb Jersey Axe with a 31.5" handle (perfect for me and splits wood very well).

Hope this helps.

Chers, CW
 
check in on
http://www.oldjimbo.com/

i could add a list of axes, but you'll get plenty of suggestions.

i like to make shorter handles for bench hatchets. hatchets i use on my work bench, and carry in the spare tire boot of my Subaru

you already have a Fiskars axe. this is a good tool, i think Old Jimbo tells about tuning up the edge on it.

i like Plumb Hudson Bay style axes, very efficient cutters.

the Wetterlings cost more than they did a couple a yeras ago, but are good cutters for soft wood species. and have good steel

any old axe would be a good place to start if you wanted to learn more about grinding a hollow edge or cleaning up the cheeks or how to hang a new handle.

buzz
 
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