What belt grits to get.

B

bkshafer

Joined
Jul 31, 2004
Messages
54
Can somebody recomend what belt grits I should stock up on? I got a 2x42 craftsman grinder so I am somewhat limited as to what I can get. Jantz has my size avalable in 36, 60, 80, 120, 220, 320, 400, and 600 grits. I am doing some stock removal right now but just until my lazy ass builds a new forge.

Thanks
Brian
 
36 is good for handle material, less tendency to clog up. I do use it on metal, but it does leave
deep scratches that require fair bit of work. 36 is also good for getting
outline done. It sure eats whatever material you throw at it fast, including
human flesh and bone, so be very careful.


Some folx go straight from their choice of lower grit to 220, heat treat
at 220, retouch at 220 if they need to and then go to 600 before cut/color.

I'd do: 36, 120, 220 and 600, if fund's are stretched.
 
They all have value, but if funds are tight - hog with 60G - finish shape with 120G - clean up with 220G and hand sand from there.

Rob!
 
Don't waste your money on anything over 220 in a 2"x42" belt. The Craftsman machine moves the belts way to fast to get much use out of the higher grit belts. What you will find is with that belt speed, you won't have enough control and you'll also find that the finer grits really heat the steel up. I have seen a thread somewhere here where one member found a DC motor that was a bolt in replacement for the stock AC motor and he was able to make his 2"x42" into a variable speed (much more useful) machine.

There are two mods that you can do to that machine to make it more enjoyable to work on. The first is to cut off the rear part of the right side of the work rest. You want to basically continue the line that starts where the belt sits all the way to the far right edge. This will allow you to change belts without unbolting the work rest and greatly reduce your level of frustration. The second mod is to build a more rigid platen assembly (the part behind the belt you press against when grinding). The stock platen is flimsy and generally sucks. Both of these mods will greatly increase your enjoyment of the machine and you won't lose any functionality. A little re-work of the locknut and screw that allow you to adjust the tracking more easily would also be a great benefit. A wing nut to replace the lock nut and a longer screw with some sort of knob on the end would do wonders here as it would allow oyu to adjust the belt tracking without tools.
 
Aluminum oxide belts is what I use. I stock 40 or 50 grit (depending on price at the time for such), 120, 220, and 400 grit. The 50 grit I use for cleaning pity stock from the vendor and such things as profile work and tang tapering, etc.. The others are primarily used for general grinding and finishing. The courser grits are useful in grinding some handle materials too and etc.. I do have grits down to 1000 grit but seldom go finer than 600 grit belt usage. Except for some handle grinding 220 to 400 grit is about as fine I use belts for. From there it is hand finishing. Anyhow, if asked I might suggest stocking heavily used grits beween about 36 to 220 as your most used belts and throw in some 400 and a few 600 grit for lessor but sometimes wanted belts.

As a stock remover, I find belts to be the most expensive item in knife making.

RL
 
I pretty much agree with all the above.
I personally only grind up to 220 grit and hand rub from there but mainly because I cannot get the blade nicely even when I just grind.:o
One day.....

Norton Ceramic are really good belts too, more expensive than alu. oxide belts but they last longer and stay "sharp" longer.
Dunno if you get them in the size you need for your machine.

You pretty much have to try it all and see what works best for you and what you are capable of achieving, did anybody mention tho that it is not easy?!!:D

Good luck
 
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