What Buck Steel to Choose?

westgin

westgin

Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Messages
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Lets say your next Buck knife purchase is available in the orginal 440C, 5160 and D2, which steel would you choose and why? Lets say it will be a fixed blade knife in the 100 series. Price is no factor in choice. :)
 
Bear Claw Chris Lappe said:
D2 all day, everyday!!!!!!!!!!!
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You left out my favorite: S30V. Buck does an amazing job with S30V.

Of the alloys you list, it depends on the purpose for the knife.
If it were for hunting so that I would have a camp to go back to with sharpening equipment, D2. It holds the best edge.

If it were for use under extended circumstances with minimal equipment, 5160, because you don't need fancy equipment to keep it sharp.
 
440c no doubt it's one of the best,I can turn 440c Buck steel into some of the scariest edges I've ever put on a knife,and they hold it too.im always amazed when I read about 440c Buck knives at all the folks who can't get it sharp.convex edges perform excellent for me on 440c
 
I would go with 440C. I like a good stainless. I think that one would offer the best edge retention out of the choices. DM
 
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If I were worried about corrosion I would go with 440C. If I wanted the best edge retention I would go with D2. If I needed something that I could sharpen easy then 5160 followed by 440C would be my choices. If I wanted something I could abuse then 5160 followed by 440C. In other words, it would depend on what I wanted to use the knife for. Generally, I think 440C is a better choice than 5160 as an all around steel and D2 is the best for edge retention.
 
DocT said:
If I were worried about corrosion I would go with 440C. If I wanted the best edge retention I would go with D2. If I needed something that I could sharpen easy then 5160 followed by 440C would be my choices. If I wanted something I could abuse then 5160 followed by 440C. In other words, it would depend on what I wanted to use the knife for. Generally, I think 440C is a better choice than 5160 as an all around steel and D2 is the best for edge retention.
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The reason I agreed with D2 is because I've used Dozier's D2 with a hollow grind and have seen folks beat the snot out of it. To the point that I winced because I was sure it would break and a piece would come flying at me at Mach 4.

It's one of the reasons the whole "hollow grinds are weak/useless" argument doesn't hold water with me. D2 with a Bos HT would be the cats pajammy's :p.
 
Does anyone know what steel buck used in the 110 back in the 70s. The old fellas believe that the 1970s steel was the best. I have noticed that sharpening one from that time period seems more difficult but that could be all in my mind or it could be because they are 40 years old and need a new bevel. Thanks for sharing your experiences. I suppose to answer the question S30V for hunting, I only cut with knives. I don't pry with it or put it under a lot of force. Everyday carry probably 1095 or high carbon of some type, so if I dull it on something I don't have to spend a lot of time resharpening it. For 1095 I don't use a stone to resharpen them, I use a high quality steel that I got from a chicken factory. (Sheffield knife steels are flat out awesome. I don't know where you can get one but if you can they are great) a few licks on a good steel is all you need.
 
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The steel on Buck's 110 and others in the 70's was 440C. The chromium carbides in that steel resist grinding. Plus, the knives of that era had thick bevels near the edge. Just the thinking back then. Plus, most owners did not use a stone material that was capable of cutting that steel. So, a 3 part equation with all bad parts. The steel you are using does not remove metal. You are burnish the metal back into place. Thus it affords you a edge that cuts for a time. And we are off the original topic. DM
 
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Sorry I got off topic for Buck steel i'd love to try an S30V according to their site carries the best edge retention.
 
Brian, think nothing of it. Another item in the equation of ' can't sharpen that steel', is guys that don't clean their stone. The stone could have build up on it or dished to the point that it is no longer effective for sharpening. I've seen this many times. West, I prefer the stainless offering. DM
 
I had a custom 110 blade made that I just picked up at the Blade Show. I need to get it heat treated. The steel is CPM S-110-V. I can't wait to try it. My other choices in descending order would be: 1) CPM S-30-V, 2) BG-42, ATS-34, and 4) 440-C.
 
Been carrying a Buck Momentum in S30V last week or so really liking that steel so for cut thru some 10aug copper cable today and striped the ends and some other odd jobs in the past week it's still sharp.
 
No mention of 154cm?
Buck already works with it and do an all arounder I think it offers good corrosion resistance edge retention and IME, it takes a damn nice edge.
I'd love to see a 113 in it, with G10 scales.
 
Yes, Buck has put that steel on a 110 before. As well as the powder upgrade of it, CPM- 154. Both are very good steels. DM
 
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